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I had that same thought and it may very well have been caused by those check valves not feeding enough oil pressure to the lifters but at this point all I can do is speculate. This is the other cracked lifter though.
I'll be ordering a.new head gasket and bolts for the drivers side head tomorrow and should have it back up and running by next week.
We're is the thread on your engine build CR I wanna this engine of yours.
take a picture of your top please. i actually didn't do one. but stock bottom end with ARP main bearing studs, all new bearings and rings with stock pistons. my heads got the fun stuff: brand new heads, with swirl polished eurospec valves with 7mm stems. high rev dual springs with titanium retainers and light weight lifters. shaved off about 330 grams from the valvetrain. everything is ported and gasket matched. also got a pair of CAT cams, but one of them developed a high spot (they were used) so we've been trying to resolve that, and fedEx lost them for over 3 weeks now. I'm also running ARP head studs and one of them backed out causing my head gasket to leak, so thats why the head is off. I'm also running one of VAP's throttle body, big deshrouded MAF with conversion to potentiometer and VAPs ir box
Well I got all the parts I needed last week and got to it. And after a couple long nights I had the ole 12v back together. It was a cool night around 1 in the morning just me and my audi, quite the opposite from the starting party I had with all my family and neighbors the first time I fired it up and started having problems. After countless hours of troubleshooting, teardown getting new parts, dimension checks and rebuild again!!! And somewhere in there listening to brother talk me out of scrapping the whole product completely. I'm going to fire it up and see if if it all paid off. So I gave it a nice tounge lashing, a verbal slap on the *** if you will, crossed my fingers and turned that key............
Took it a minute to get fuel through the rail then she roared to life and although I had lifter noise cause the lifters were still getting filled with oil she was silky smooth. I knew right away that I had fixed the problem. After minute or two the lifters went silent and I was staring at the engine that I had tore down completely to a bare block and fully rebuilt over the better half of a year just purr like a kitten.
So naturally I bled cooling system and took her for a spin. And she did not dissapoint, has plenty of power and pulls hard when you put your foot down I pushed it to about 80% and she wanted more but I need to build a little more confidence in it before I just go full bore. Needless to say I'm happy with it and that's saying alot!
Thanks to all who have commented and suggested on this build I couldn't have done it without ya. I will keep posting on here updates and also check if any have questions.
Please for the love of all that is holy make sure your parts are quality and matched up before you install them I got burned bad by these bad lifters that I had bought new.
Congratulations, job well done. Thank you for posting. This is the most informative and best documented taredown and rebuild thread I have seen in a long time. I love the old SOHC 12v. With your labor and attention to detail, that motor will still be running stong in 20 years.
BTW. Can you tell me how you timed your engine once you got it assembled? I tore mine down to the block and am looking for a step by step on how to time it. I have the cam-lock bar and pin but don't yet know how to use them.
BTW. Can you tell me how you timed your engine once you got it assembled? I tore mine down to the block and am looking for a step by step on how to time it. I have the cam-lock bar and pin but don't yet know how to use them.
This German fellow has a nice DIY. He made his own timing bar, therefor he must relocate the power steering pump. With the timing bar sold most anywhere..it has a bend in it the clear the power steering pump.
His engine is a little different but the same procedure applies to the 2.8 SOHC sold here in the USA. See the YouTube link. It has English subtitles.
This German fellow has a nice DIY. He made his own timing bar, therefor he must relocate the power steering pump. With the timing bar sold most anywhere..it has a bend in it the clear the power steering pump.
His engine is a little different but the same procedure applies to the 2.8 SOHC sold here in the USA. See the YouTube link. It has English subtitles.
So I just put it to TDC by aligning the crank shaft to the line, insert the pin and thats it? Also for my cam shafts. Can I just bend those back so that the bar fits and wip on the timing belt?
So I just put it to TDC by aligning the crank shaft to the line, insert the pin and thats it? Also for my cam shafts. Can I just bend those back so that the bar fits and wip on the timing belt?
Yes, turn the crankshaft clockwards until it lines up AND the camshaft sprockets have the bigger holes inward. Insert the pin. Yes, you can simply turn the camshaft with a camshaft sprocket holder tool to line them up perfectly so the bar fits.
If you understand a bit of german you'll notice that irina25661 in the youtube video tightens the bolt to 45 nm... This is as according to the "bible", the Bentley manual. But that doesn't make it right. It is a 8 mm bolt. Some one had a bad day at work at Bentley Publishers and substituted two torque values. 45 nm is correct for the big unbraco bolt on the fan belt tensioner! The timing tensioner bolt should see no more than 24 nm! Go to the dealership and get a new bolt for the timing belt tensioner..
Last edited by haraldpost; 03-10-2016 at 03:25 AM.
08-04-2015, 08:32 PM
45 nm is correct for the big unbraco bolt on the fan belt tensioner! The timing tensioner bolt should see no more than 24 nm! Go to the dealership and get a new bolt for the timing belt tensioner.. 