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Overhaulin the ole 12v

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Old 03-12-2016, 10:36 AM   #91
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Yes, turn the crankshaft clockwards until it lines up AND the camshaft sprockets have the bigger holes inward. Insert the pin. Yes, you can simply turn the camshaft with a camshaft sprocket holder tool to line them up perfectly so the bar fits.

If you understand a bit of german you'll notice that irina25661 in the youtube video tightens the bolt to 45 nm... This is as according to the "bible", the Bentley manual. But that doesn't make it right. It is a 8 mm bolt. Some one had a bad day at work at Bentley Publishers and substituted two torque values. 45 nm is correct for the big unbraco bolt on the fan belt tensioner! The timing tensioner bolt should see no more than 24 nm! Go to the dealership and get a new bolt for the timing belt tensioner..
Why do you have to use camshaft sprocket holders? I mean if I can get the bar on without tightening any bolts I'm good right?
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:20 PM   #92
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The camshaft toothed sprockets have to loose on their taper to adjust the tension on the cam belt. The cam bolts are loosened and then the camshaft toothed sprockets are pulled off the taper with a gear puller. With the cam bar holding the camshafts in the correct spot and at TDC..you slightly get the cam bolts in place, a little less than tight..but not binding the camshafts on the taper so they will still move independent of the camshafts (fiddly..but must be done)..then you adjust the cam belt..a 90* twist when correct with the adjuster pulley..then tighten the adjuster. Then you tighten the cam bolts..with the bar on the cams and at TDC.

Once done turn the engine over by hand..carefully..there should be no resistance with the spark plugs out. Take it back to TDC and check your cam timing with the timing bar..if good..your done.
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Old 04-07-2016, 02:09 PM   #93
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Hi Guys, What a great thread on the 12v engine and awesome pics to boot. I'm just doing the timing belt job on my 94 Audi 80 2.6e and have been hunting around for a thread like this for info. Your pictures nicely show the end of the camshafts and I now understand how the little wings keep the shaft at the tdc position when using the tool. I'm still waiting for my tool to arrive in the post but have done some of the dismantle already. I see that the garage that did the belt last before I bought the car must have used the tippex and pray method without pulling off the camshaft sprocket and as a result my timing is actually wrong! At least I reckon it must be because with the crankshaft at the tdc mark, the left hand side camshaft as we look at the engine has perfectly horizontal holes pointing towards the right hand side. The right side has slightly dipped down holes inboard meaning I wont be able to get the tool engaged. The belt is very tight around the tensioner and between the camshafts but loose between the right hand camshaft and the crankshaft. I'm amazed the car has run so successfully out of correct timing for the last 70,000 miles or so. I've finally worked out after much puzzling that the sprockets should be pulled then replaced finger tight with the tool engaged holding correct camshaft position through the keyed wings and then the belt tensioned before finally doing up the sprockets to the proper tightness. Phew. Anyway, thanks for the thread its been great to have a look at the bits dismantled and work out what to do. Cheers
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:04 AM   #94
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The belt is very tight around the tensioner and between the camshafts but loose between the right hand camshaft and the crankshaft. I'm amazed the car has run so successfully out of correct timing for the last 70,000 miles or so.
That is doomed to happen with the "tippex and pray" method on these engines. The timing belt will never achieve even tension if both cam sprockets are not pulled!

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Originally Posted by bangernomics View Post
I've finally worked out after much puzzling that the sprockets should be pulled then replaced finger tight with the tool engaged holding correct camshaft position through the keyed wings and then the belt tensioned before finally doing up the sprockets to the proper tightness. Phew. Anyway, thanks for the thread its been great to have a look at the bits dismantled and work out what to do. Cheers
Correct.

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Old 04-08-2016, 08:49 AM   #95
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Haraldpost, Many thanks for your reply to my post confirming my thoughts are correct. I'm still waiting on the tool to arrive so ground to a halt.


Offtopic. Thought I'd get my coolant system flushed out while I wait but cannot for the life of me find the elusive block coolant drain plug. Could it be that I don't actually have one? Spent half of last night into the wee hours searching these forums and all the pics people have kindly posted of it 10 years ago seem not to come up (posts too old maybe?). If anyone has a diagram, photo or just a good description of the location on the 12v 2.6 abc engine it would be much appreciated.


Regards


1994 Audi 80 2.6E 04 - current
1985 Audi 80 1.8 5cyl 95 - 04 (scrapped after badly vandalised)
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:49 PM   #96
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No problem.

There IS a coolant drain in the block, a long way up in a hole... on the left hand side, very close to the gearbox. Try some 6-8 mm unbraco keys up there and fiddle around till you feel it is right and undo the screw. You may find a lot of sediments up there. No coolant came out on mine. I poked with a screw driver and sprayed some WD40 and heated up the car a few times and suddenly.....
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:34 PM   #97
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So is that just a little bit further back than the TDC sensor/crankshaft locking hole? Same side?
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:11 PM   #98
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yes, but you get to it from underneath the block. grab a flashlight and poke your head around the bottom of your oil pan where it mates to the trans. you should see a big 6 point bolt on the left hand side of the vehicle in one of those holes
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Old 02-04-2017, 04:59 AM   #99
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Default Sad but true this 100CS is for SALE

Hey all Audi fans and mostly C4 fans Ive come to a crossroads with my favorite avant. After the initial break in procedure and new oil change this was my daily driver for a full year, then I bought a B5.....S4. I know I know I cant believe it either but needless to say the ole 12V started to sit and has sat for about 6 months, and with things that sit has developed a couple issues. I will be selling this for $1700.00 That's as low as I can go without keeping it in hopes of a URS6 engine, tranny swap. Im into the car and new engine more than 4000.00 but I have too many projects so I would rather see this go to someone who will care for it well. If you don't already know the work that has gone into the engine read this entire thread and consider yourself well informed.

The good.
1. Super clean Avant absolutely no rust never been hit or even bumped
2. interior is 9 out of ten leather is in great shape
3. Recently installed new stereo with Bluetooth and handsfree calling among many other cool things, audio streaming, Pandora, etc.
4. Runs and drives fine
5. fresh tint job all around last year.
6.wheels and tires are in great shape
7. and many many more
8. Oh and I forgot to mention mance ethridge upgraded throttle body.

The Bad
1. It has developed a coolant leak coming from the back of the engine.
2. It has a vacuum leak that results in a very slight idle rpm variation but it turns the engine light on, then the idle picks up to compensate. (rpms increase) I have pulled the code and all it says is intake leak detected
3. I believe the passenger side valve cover is leaking oil ever so slightly so youll get a drip onto the exhaust occasionally.

I am located in Dallas Texas
Feel free to PM me with any questions at all I will give out my cell number through PM only.

This breaks my heart to see this go but Im trying to simplify my projects and spend more time with wife and Kids and I cant bare to see this amazing car just sit without being totally enjoyed for what she is.
Will gladly post up recent pics later today. Stay tuned
Thanks Caleb Halligan
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