Oil change on my 2.0T
07-21-2010, 05:17 AM
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Oil change on my 2.0T
Well, now that my Audi maintenance has run out on my 06 A4 2.0T quattro my latest oil change was on me. I gathered a bunch of information on the web and went to work. Not too bad. Here is what I did:
1) Jack up car on driver's side.
2) Remove belly pan, you'll need a flat screw driver. These are kind of a pain. Don't forget the plastic screws in the lower front wheel house that need to come out as well.
3) With the belly pan off I located the filter assembly and the oil drain plug (which faces to the passenger side of the car).
4) I unscrewed the oil drain plug and let it drain.
5) I unscrewed the cap off of the oil filter assembly. This is held on by some type of string so just let it fall once you have it off.
6) With the cap off the oil filter assembly valve is exposed. You need (should) drain the oil contained in the assembly before removal. There is a special Audi tool to do this but I was told of a similar tool made by a company called mobil fraction (?) which is all plastic. I purchased it for $20. It is a screw on piece with a long, heavy plastic tube attached to it. I screwed it onto the assembly (in the same area where I had just unscrewed the cap earlier). As you snug it up while tightening the old oil contained within the assembly comes out. The tool works great. Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. I left everything to fully drain overnight.
7) Next morning, i removed the drain tool. Now it is time to remove the now-drained oil filter assembly. You'll need a 36mm socket. I picked one up at sears. It was half inch drive. i used the long 9" extention and got the socket onto the oil filter assembly. You'll have to put it up between part of the steering assembly but it gets there without issue. Loosen the assembly. Then take it off the rest of the way by hand. It is a little cramped but you can get to it easy enough.
8) Remove your old filter element and rubber seal, clean the inside of the assembly and install the new paper filer elemnent onto the assembly.
9) Install the drain plug. No crush washer needed.
10) Install the oil filter assembly by hand and then snug it up with your scoket. Don't forget to screw the tethered cap back on.
11) Install the belly pan.
12) Fill with 4.5 quarts of synthetic oil. i used Mobil 1.
13) replace oil filler cap.
14) Reset service indicator at dash.
You are all set. Thanks to all that helped me do this. It was not the easiest oil change but not the hardest and you will need the two special tools (oil filter assembly darin tool and the 36mm socket).
Good luck.
1) Jack up car on driver's side.
2) Remove belly pan, you'll need a flat screw driver. These are kind of a pain. Don't forget the plastic screws in the lower front wheel house that need to come out as well.
3) With the belly pan off I located the filter assembly and the oil drain plug (which faces to the passenger side of the car).
4) I unscrewed the oil drain plug and let it drain.
5) I unscrewed the cap off of the oil filter assembly. This is held on by some type of string so just let it fall once you have it off.
6) With the cap off the oil filter assembly valve is exposed. You need (should) drain the oil contained in the assembly before removal. There is a special Audi tool to do this but I was told of a similar tool made by a company called mobil fraction (?) which is all plastic. I purchased it for $20. It is a screw on piece with a long, heavy plastic tube attached to it. I screwed it onto the assembly (in the same area where I had just unscrewed the cap earlier). As you snug it up while tightening the old oil contained within the assembly comes out. The tool works great. Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. I left everything to fully drain overnight.
7) Next morning, i removed the drain tool. Now it is time to remove the now-drained oil filter assembly. You'll need a 36mm socket. I picked one up at sears. It was half inch drive. i used the long 9" extention and got the socket onto the oil filter assembly. You'll have to put it up between part of the steering assembly but it gets there without issue. Loosen the assembly. Then take it off the rest of the way by hand. It is a little cramped but you can get to it easy enough.
8) Remove your old filter element and rubber seal, clean the inside of the assembly and install the new paper filer elemnent onto the assembly.
9) Install the drain plug. No crush washer needed.
10) Install the oil filter assembly by hand and then snug it up with your scoket. Don't forget to screw the tethered cap back on.
11) Install the belly pan.
12) Fill with 4.5 quarts of synthetic oil. i used Mobil 1.
13) replace oil filler cap.
14) Reset service indicator at dash.
You are all set. Thanks to all that helped me do this. It was not the easiest oil change but not the hardest and you will need the two special tools (oil filter assembly darin tool and the 36mm socket).
Good luck.
07-29-2010, 03:31 PM
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chang oil and now leak... ekkkk. please read
hey thank you for the nice write up. good info on here. so much so it made me want to do this myself rather than pay 150 for this to be done. I have a 06 A4 2.0 and everything seemed like it went smooth. the only question I had going through it was a thicker o ring. one o ring came with the oil filter and that was easy to spot and replace. but when I took off the oil filter assembly a thicker o ring came with it.
I took my time and tried it in maybe different places. I settled on putting it on the half of the assembly that is attached to the car. I thought that I pushed it all the way up. put everything back together and then put oil in the car. patted myself on the back for saving money and then..... ****.
I pulled up to a nice smell of oil and spent the following hour jacking up the car (no lift now) taking the plastic off and cleaning up. had my girl start the car while I was under it for a sec and saw that the oil is coming from the inside half of the oil filter assembly. I am thinking that I put the thick o ring on in the wrong place or didnt push it up to the top all the way.
any and all helped is welcomed and appreciated.
I took my time and tried it in maybe different places. I settled on putting it on the half of the assembly that is attached to the car. I thought that I pushed it all the way up. put everything back together and then put oil in the car. patted myself on the back for saving money and then..... ****.
I pulled up to a nice smell of oil and spent the following hour jacking up the car (no lift now) taking the plastic off and cleaning up. had my girl start the car while I was under it for a sec and saw that the oil is coming from the inside half of the oil filter assembly. I am thinking that I put the thick o ring on in the wrong place or didnt push it up to the top all the way.
any and all helped is welcomed and appreciated.
07-29-2010, 06:45 PM
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well I took the oil filter assembly off again with much hesitation hoping that gobs (sp?) of oil were not going to slash in my eye with the one thought that I crossed threaded it. so it came off without much of a fuss. I checked the thick o ring and realized it was in the right spot. I went around it and made sure (to the best I could see/feel) that it was flush and nothing was wrong with it. I carefully put everything back together.
long story short tested it and its not leaking. I am going to try in the morning but as of now I think that its good. thanks and I hope this helps someone else while they are freaking about and wishing they would of spent the 150 at the dealership to get their oil changed...
on a side note autozone had 5 qts of mobil 1 0w40 and a mobil 1 oil filter ( I know we use a cartridge but I got one for my other car) all for 35 and some change. I thought it was a good deal.
long story short tested it and its not leaking. I am going to try in the morning but as of now I think that its good. thanks and I hope this helps someone else while they are freaking about and wishing they would of spent the 150 at the dealership to get their oil changed...
on a side note autozone had 5 qts of mobil 1 0w40 and a mobil 1 oil filter ( I know we use a cartridge but I got one for my other car) all for 35 and some change. I thought it was a good deal.
08-04-2010, 10:52 AM
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Well, I spent the extra money and purchase an OEM Audi filter. Since I'm doing the job myself I figured I'd spring for the filter and then I'm sure to get the correct part. There was only one o-ring seal and there was no question how it went on. It had an extra small piece of rubber that went into a slit in the housing, just like the old one. No problems here at all. It sealed right up with no issue. maybe you had issues because you went with a non-oem filter? i would suggest picking up the Audi filter for a perfect fit.
12-02-2011, 06:32 PM
#6
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just for anyones info, the oil filter design is absoulutly terrible. If you get one that the filter leaks and leaks no matter if you put a new oring or not. the whole assembly that bolts to the block is bad. They warp and stop sealing, especially when the 36mm is overtightened. Fairly easy to replace the oil filter/cooler assembly if needed.
12-21-2011, 05:20 AM
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just for anyones info, the oil filter design is absoulutly terrible. If you get one that the filter leaks and leaks no matter if you put a new oring or not. the whole assembly that bolts to the block is bad. They warp and stop sealing, especially when the 36mm is overtightened. Fairly easy to replace the oil filter/cooler assembly if needed.
Last edited by jeff968; 12-21-2011 at 05:23 AM.
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12-21-2011, 05:42 AM
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05-07-2016, 09:02 AM
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Warning when remote locking
My 2006 a4 stopped beeping once when it is locked via remote, also the light blinking on the driver's door stopped yet it does get locked. Any help is greatly appreciated.
05-13-2016, 06:12 AM
#10
That happens when the trunk or a door isn't closed all the way. Open and close all doors and the trunk and try to remote lock again.