Timing belt snapped

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Old 04-04-2015, 11:34 AM
  #11  
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Default Dear Viewer,.... Did I say getting there?

Well, the cam chain tensioners arrived, and I started to install Bank No.1.
The old one did not look too bad. Seemed to have full movement.

All back together and had a look at Bank No.2, the tensioner seemed to have full movement, when compressed. The cam chain links 16 rollers between marks, were good. So box back up.

Oh, I was going to do the neat trick, of just lifting one cam and slowly raising the other to change out the cam chain tensioner quickly.

But dropped one the cam cover bolts into the timing belt, way down. So full strip down.

Oh well! No big deal, and I doubt it will save that much time.

Started, the car, and ran up to working temperature, then checked for codes.......

well another code P1522? No. 2 bank, which I did not touch, just checked the timing, again, and the changed out cam chain tensioner on bank No.1, and recheck the chain links 16, on each.

Found a very useful diagram on the ross Tech web page, for checking confirming Bank No.1 & 2.cam chain position ...........Go Google! .....ok then.......

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/image...ing_chains.gif

Removed the cam sensor bank No.2, cleaned it, (not dirty but) what else to do.
Check the connections and cable both good!

Restarted, and low and behold, code P1522 gone??

Unfortunate still not happy, not rev-ing freely as it should and still a bit of noise I can't put my finger on.

Searched a few threads, and found some folk talking about block 90,91,92 & 93. cam timing, after snapped timing belt rebuild. see VCAD

AudiSRS.com :: Cam Timing - Checking with VAG-COM?

My block 93 gives 35kw and 5kw? Which I understand mean Bank No.1 is way out.

I opened the No.1 Bank cylinder cover on the A4 2.8 ( my other car, also dead at the min but working on it) and set the timing marks using the timing bar, and mercy be, It looked good, just like the dia. and pictures.

So, the cam sprocket on the inlet cam, looks like it has moved, way off. Not code showing when scanned, just not raving right.

Looks, like I'll be telephoning around the engineering shops, after easter, to remove and refit the sprocket and/or the breakers yards, for some new cams.

No.2 cylinder inlet cam should be full open and it is not.


Stay tuned, for the next exciting episode!!

Last edited by bydand; 04-04-2015 at 10:10 PM. Reason: too much beverage, No.2 cylinder open?
Old 04-17-2015, 11:04 PM
  #12  
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Default Got it.

So, the cam sprocket on the inlet cam, looks like it has moved, way off. Not code showing when scanned, just not raving right.

Looks, like I'll be telephoning around the engineering shops, after easter, to remove and refit the sprocket and/or the breakers yards, for some new cams.

No.2 cylinder inlet cam should be full open and it is not.


Stay tuned, for the next exciting episode!!


Not so fast! On removing the cams from bank No.1 and laying them down with the tensioner, it was off one link on the inlet.

Looked different from the drawings, but with the chain moved one valley in on tooth 1 on the exhaust cam and one valley after on the inlet, with 16 links between, and the original tensioner replaced.

All is good, no codes and reving freely.

Basic problem! the cam timing was out, not 16 links between marks, Checking Ross tech block 93, was a useful tool.


Happy days!
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