1996 A4 2.8L EGR Valve issues.
#1
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1996 A4 2.8L EGR Valve issues.
Hello again to all AW members. I am having issues with my EGR valve in my 1996 A4 12v 2.8L V6. I have heard from at least two people on this forum that the EGR valve rarely fails and there is a way to clean it out. I would like to get some instructions on how to remove it and clean it out as I don't see any thing of this nature in the Tech. section. Also how long does it take for this part to get clogged and need cleaning once again?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
The pic is kind of big
I cleaned mine at 85K, 125K and 160K.
The problem is caused by "blow by" oil in the inlet tract.
As the car gets older the problem worsens as the engine wears.
In simple terms. You really need a manual for all the details.
You remove the EGR valve (you need a 10mm socket and a 22mm "crow foot". Remove the throttle body. Some have a torx some have an allen head.
Once these items are off take some stranded aircraft cable and run it down the passage. Put one end in a cordless drill and after pouring some gunk in the throttle body end spin the drill slowly.
Most of the "crud" accumulates at the throttle body end where it is cooler and the passage makes a right hand turn.
Spend at least an hour doing this. Last time I did this I put a cork in the EGR end and filled it up with Gunk and left it overnight to loosen everything up.
Re-assemble with new gaskets clear the code (or give it a few days to clear on it's own) and you are on your way.
The problem is caused by "blow by" oil in the inlet tract.
As the car gets older the problem worsens as the engine wears.
In simple terms. You really need a manual for all the details.
You remove the EGR valve (you need a 10mm socket and a 22mm "crow foot". Remove the throttle body. Some have a torx some have an allen head.
Once these items are off take some stranded aircraft cable and run it down the passage. Put one end in a cordless drill and after pouring some gunk in the throttle body end spin the drill slowly.
Most of the "crud" accumulates at the throttle body end where it is cooler and the passage makes a right hand turn.
Spend at least an hour doing this. Last time I did this I put a cork in the EGR end and filled it up with Gunk and left it overnight to loosen everything up.
Re-assemble with new gaskets clear the code (or give it a few days to clear on it's own) and you are on your way.
#3
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Looks pretty hard to take out because it is all the way back there. Did you have to loosen the engine mounts to move the engine forward to take it out or did you just remove the throttle body and reach in there? What kind of gunk cleaner did you use? Would dipping it in seafoam overnight have the same effect?
#4
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Gunk carb cleaner works.
All the stuff attached to the throttle body comes off including the cruise control, solenoid plate and plenum. Disconnect the vent pipes to the cam covers. Careful they are brittle after 13 years and they cost $$$.
It's tight but once the throttle body is off with a flashlight/ inspection light it's not that bad.
Not sure how you could dip it in seafoam without removing the intake manifold, that's what you are trying to avoid.
Gunk works just fine, just buy a large can, and while the throttle body is off clean up the throttle body and replace all the vacuum lines.
All the stuff attached to the throttle body comes off including the cruise control, solenoid plate and plenum. Disconnect the vent pipes to the cam covers. Careful they are brittle after 13 years and they cost $$$.
It's tight but once the throttle body is off with a flashlight/ inspection light it's not that bad.
Not sure how you could dip it in seafoam without removing the intake manifold, that's what you are trying to avoid.
Gunk works just fine, just buy a large can, and while the throttle body is off clean up the throttle body and replace all the vacuum lines.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
#7
AudiMick covered that well. I also had to clean it on several occasions and, as suggested, take your time a do a decent job with the aircraft cable "roto-router" to increase the time before having to do it again. The cleaner the hole is the slower the future build up will be. Obviously, make sure the drill rotates in the correct direction (winding the wire cable up). And if you decide to replace the vacuum hoses, I suggest taking a photo first to ensure you put them back together correctly - there are a lot of them!
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#8
AudiMick covered that well. I also had to clean it on several occasions and, as suggested, take your time a do a decent job with the aircraft cable "roto-router" to increase the time before having to do it again. The cleaner the hole is the slower the future build up will be. Obviously, make sure the drill rotates in the correct direction (winding the wire cable up). And if you decide to replace the vacuum hoses, I suggest taking a photo first to ensure you put them back together correctly - there are a lot of them!
#9
aircraft cable
AudiMick covered that well. I also had to clean it on several occasions and, as suggested, take your time a do a decent job with the aircraft cable "roto-router" to increase the time before having to do it again. The cleaner the hole is the slower the future build up will be. Obviously, make sure the drill rotates in the correct direction (winding the wire cable up). And if you decide to replace the vacuum hoses, I suggest taking a photo first to ensure you put them back together correctly - there are a lot of them!
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Aircraft cable or wire rope.
Available at most hardware stores.
http://www.stageriggingonline.com/cable1.html
it's hard enough and abrasive enough to remove the sludge from the EGR passage when you rotate it.