'97 A4 2.8Q, EGR location
11-23-2009, 12:18 PM
#2
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EGR
Bruch
www.12v.org has some schematics / diagrams you might benefit from.
Bruch
11-27-2009, 08:36 PM
#3
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Do you have the EGR insufficient flow code? I just cleaned up my '96 2.8's EGR valve and manifold passage, which solved the recurring code, and also got the emissions into the acceptable range at the smog test place. The EGR was fairly easy to take out. Unscrew the two screws holding it on, using a 10mm U-joint socket. Through the driver-side wheel well (wheel removed) disconnect the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold, with a 22mm wrench. The whole thing will wiggle up and out of the car. The next part, cleaning the EGR passage, is way more hassle. Is that what you are planning to do?
11-30-2009, 06:39 AM
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Thanks to turbo510 and Bruch
turbo510: Yes, exactly...I do have the "P0401 - Insufficient Flow" code. I was hoping to remove the EGR and perform the cleanout procedure. Sounds like the removal is straightforward, thanks for detailed info and to Bruch for v12.org website reference. You mention that the actual passage cleaning operation was more of a hassle...any advice here would also be much appreciated. Thnx, audiphile1
Do you have the EGR insufficient flow code? I just cleaned up my '96 2.8's EGR valve and manifold passage, which solved the recurring code, and also got the emissions into the acceptable range at the smog test place. The EGR was fairly easy to take out. Unscrew the two screws holding it on, using a 10mm U-joint socket. Through the driver-side wheel well (wheel removed) disconnect the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold, with a 22mm wrench. The whole thing will wiggle up and out of the car. The next part, cleaning the EGR passage, is way more hassle. Is that what you are planning to do?
11-30-2009, 03:02 PM
#5
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I think that I have written something about this, so if I remember where, I'll pass it on. To clean the valve, I put it in a vice, and disconnected the EGR pipe. Be sure to scratch some marks on the pipe and valve to line them up later. The valve got soaked in degreaser, but don't get any solvent in the diaphragm area! You'll need to improvise with small tools to loosen all of the carbon, after the majority of it is washed out with water. I even finished with Oven-Off, in the hope that this would work. Do the same with the pipe, which wasn't too bad.
You'll probably see the EGR port on the intake manifold totally clogged over. To clean this properly, you've got to take the throttle-body off. Disconnect all the hoses and electrical connectors required to take that off (record how the hoses are connected), then the throttle cable, throttle position electrical connector, and the four Torx fasteners. These were really tight on my car, and make sure you are using the correct size tool.
The EGR port was clogged tight right up to the place where it emerges in the manifold. Had I taken the EGR temperature sender out, I probably could have drilled the carbon gunk out, but I just didn't have the crow's foot wrench that was necessary. This part of the job was just lots of carb cleaner spray, and hand tools to get the crud out. While I was at it, the throttle plates and bores got a good cleaning. Just be carefull with the potentiometer; avoid cleaner getting into it. When you are satisfied that it's clean enough, put it back together. One more thing, on my '96 the sealing of the plastic duct to the throttle-body's rubber gasket seemed iffy to me, so I used a silicone sealant there, because any air leaks would bypass the MAF.
You'll probably see the EGR port on the intake manifold totally clogged over. To clean this properly, you've got to take the throttle-body off. Disconnect all the hoses and electrical connectors required to take that off (record how the hoses are connected), then the throttle cable, throttle position electrical connector, and the four Torx fasteners. These were really tight on my car, and make sure you are using the correct size tool.
The EGR port was clogged tight right up to the place where it emerges in the manifold. Had I taken the EGR temperature sender out, I probably could have drilled the carbon gunk out, but I just didn't have the crow's foot wrench that was necessary. This part of the job was just lots of carb cleaner spray, and hand tools to get the crud out. While I was at it, the throttle plates and bores got a good cleaning. Just be carefull with the potentiometer; avoid cleaner getting into it. When you are satisfied that it's clean enough, put it back together. One more thing, on my '96 the sealing of the plastic duct to the throttle-body's rubber gasket seemed iffy to me, so I used a silicone sealant there, because any air leaks would bypass the MAF.
12-07-2009, 08:07 AM
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Thanks, 510, for the detailed instructions! Much appreciated. vwdawg/audiphile1
I think that I have written something about this, so if I remember where, I'll pass it on. To clean the valve, I put it in a vice, and disconnected the EGR pipe. Be sure to scratch some marks on the pipe and valve to line them up later. The valve got soaked in degreaser, but don't get any solvent in the diaphragm area! You'll need to improvise with small tools to loosen all of the carbon, after the majority of it is washed out with water. I even finished with Oven-Off, in the hope that this would work. Do the same with the pipe, which wasn't too bad.
You'll probably see the EGR port on the intake manifold totally clogged over. To clean this properly, you've got to take the throttle-body off. Disconnect all the hoses and electrical connectors required to take that off (record how the hoses are connected), then the throttle cable, throttle position electrical connector, and the four Torx fasteners. These were really tight on my car, and make sure you are using the correct size tool.
The EGR port was clogged tight right up to the place where it emerges in the manifold. Had I taken the EGR temperature sender out, I probably could have drilled the carbon gunk out, but I just didn't have the crow's foot wrench that was necessary. This part of the job was just lots of carb cleaner spray, and hand tools to get the crud out. While I was at it, the throttle plates and bores got a good cleaning. Just be carefull with the potentiometer; avoid cleaner getting into it. When you are satisfied that it's clean enough, put it back together. One more thing, on my '96 the sealing of the plastic duct to the throttle-body's rubber gasket seemed iffy to me, so I used a silicone sealant there, because any air leaks would bypass the MAF.
You'll probably see the EGR port on the intake manifold totally clogged over. To clean this properly, you've got to take the throttle-body off. Disconnect all the hoses and electrical connectors required to take that off (record how the hoses are connected), then the throttle cable, throttle position electrical connector, and the four Torx fasteners. These were really tight on my car, and make sure you are using the correct size tool.
The EGR port was clogged tight right up to the place where it emerges in the manifold. Had I taken the EGR temperature sender out, I probably could have drilled the carbon gunk out, but I just didn't have the crow's foot wrench that was necessary. This part of the job was just lots of carb cleaner spray, and hand tools to get the crud out. While I was at it, the throttle plates and bores got a good cleaning. Just be carefull with the potentiometer; avoid cleaner getting into it. When you are satisfied that it's clean enough, put it back together. One more thing, on my '96 the sealing of the plastic duct to the throttle-body's rubber gasket seemed iffy to me, so I used a silicone sealant there, because any air leaks would bypass the MAF.
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