DIY: 1.8t Coolant Flange Removal and re-installation instructions on AEB others should be the same - AudiWorld Forums

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DIY: 1.8t Coolant Flange Removal and re-installation instructions on AEB others should be the same

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Old 01-18-2006, 08:47 PM   #1
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Default DIY: 1.8t Coolant Flange Removal and re-installation instructions on AEB others should be the same

So if you have been loosing coolant, had a coolant burning smell after a long drive or just happened to look down towards the back of the engine in between the firewall and noticed some pink crusting; then it's most likely time for a coolant flange job.


Picture by Andy TN showing some pink crust

The coolant flange holds the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) and is connect to the back of the engine head. It's a simple but semi hard to reach job but it's definitely DIY.

Let's get started:


Old vs. new. This side is the R side that will connect to the big black coolant pipe. Make sure you have a gasket in there


Coolant flange is semi installed. It's hanging in there loose


This side shown is the side that will attach to the engine, make sure that the gasket is installed and not torn... this is a leak area


The new flange with the temp sensor installed but no gasket between flange and engine


ETKA explosion diagram of the coolant flange and its connections


Some of the old coolant flanges will only have ONE port. The new ones that are sold come with a second port, that is seen PLUGGED in this picture. Make sure you have either an old temp sensor or the dummy plug from the dealer to fill the second port.

OK so now that you know how the coolant flange looks and where it connects to its time to get dirty:

You will loose some coolant during this procedure; it is also a good idea to replace the ECT as well while you are doing this.
You could either drain the engine coolant at the water pump or just leave whatever you have in there and see how much comes out.
I did the replacement on an engine that had all the coolant drained and replaced with brand new G12. Either way, make sure that the Engine is COLD or you will get burned.

Disconnect the cable leading to the ECT by squeezing the metal and pulling it off. You can leave the ECT in the flange or remove it. To remove it pull the small plastic U shaped clip out towards the firewall and then pull up on the ECT. You will have some coolant coming out right now.

I can't remember for sure if I had 6mm hex bolts of 8mm ones. But you need to remove 2 bolts that attach the coolant flange to the engine and another 2 that attach the flange on R side (looking from the front) to the black hose.


The picture to remind you. After you have those bolts loose you will have some more coolant come out. Pull the flange away from the engine block and also out of the black hose. The only connection that is left now will be the bottom hose.

In order to remove the bottom hose from the flange you will have to pull away a clip from the hose that will be on the flange. Make sure that you try to catch this clip as it will be flying away; it's very small and hard to find. After you have pulled the clip, hold the hose with one hand and pull on the flange with the other hand.
The flange will pop out with enough force.

Take your new flange and transfer the dummy plug and or new ECT from the old to new if needed.
You hopefully have 3 or 4 O-Rings depending on the flange. One O- Ring goes in between the flange and the engine, the other one goes between the flange and the black hose and the 2 other ones are for the ECT and the dummy plug.



Installation is in the reverse order. Make sure that when you tighten the bolts back up so just barely hand tighten them until everything is connected. Tighten them down a little bit at a time so the flange is not crocked installed.
Replenish the coolant lost, start the engine and check for leaks.

When i removed the old flange I didn't see any physical damage to it, so it might just be the O rings that are failing.

good luck
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:53 PM   #2
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Horay! Just what I needed.
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Old 01-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #3
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Default Good job. Something else to look forward to :(

This should go into the tech section.
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Old 01-18-2006, 09:22 PM   #4
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Default i will do a writeup for control arms as well

whenever i get the time and find the pics from back in the day when we did those. i dont think that there is a complete control arm article out there.
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Old 01-19-2006, 01:57 AM   #5
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Default First pic is free....

...each additional, $1/click ;-)

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Old 01-19-2006, 03:33 AM   #6
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Default Awesome, i might have to do that soon...

Sometime i get the whiff of G-12 from my engine but i can't find any leaks.

Ken
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Old 01-19-2006, 04:50 AM   #7
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nice.
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:38 AM   #8
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Hmmm, wonder if I should do that when i do the sensor just cuz.
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:53 AM   #9
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Nice write up
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Old 01-19-2006, 06:38 AM   #10
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Default You think the whole flange needs to be replaced or just the seals?

I know you mentioned you didn't see any physical damage, so that would lead me to beleive that just the seals are bad.

Any corrosion or anything else to suggest the replace the whole thing?

Nice writeup!
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Old 01-19-2006, 07:29 AM   #11
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Default That's what we had discussed after taking off the flange.

I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe the whole flange needs to be replaced but the seals (as pointed out to me by Kevin) are probably the only things that need to be replaced.
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Old 01-19-2006, 09:59 AM   #12
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i was searching for some other pics because we didnt take many and you had some good ones
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:00 PM   #13
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Default Addendum for AWM engines inside

Unplug Coolant Temp Sensor
Remove Coolant Expansion Tank
Disconnect all brackets securing the oil line running along the back of the head (from the oil cooler to the turbocharger) - 10mm and 13mm bolts and 8mm hex
Disconnect banjo bolt for oil line (don't lose the seals) - 8mm hex
Remove upper bolt securing Coolant Flange to cylinder head (10mm)
Remove bolts securing coolant supply line to flange (10mm)
Remove lower nut (10mm) on coolant flange securing oil line bracket
Move oil line safely out of the way
Remove combo bolt (10mm) that secures coolant flange to cylinder head
Remove coolant flange
Disconnect heat exchanger supply line by removing the metal clip with a flathead screwdriver and pulling the solid line away from you.

After this, be sure you have a new coolant flange with applicable o-rings. Install the Coolant Temperature Sensor BEFORE you put the flange back! Once you've got your O-rings squared away, the installation is the reverse of above.

On a personal note, the Bentley's instructions for this (as with most AWM nuances) completely blow. It makes no mention of needing to move the oil return line, nor the fact that the second bolt securing the flange to the head is a combo bolt. With limited visibility to the rear of the AWM engine, most of this was figured out with a pocket mirror, flashlight and combining the B5 and B6 instructions (which were on Audizine).

I wish you and your knuckles good luck with this one.
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:45 PM   #14
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Bumping an old thread. Thank you for this OP, will need this tomorrow!
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:09 PM   #15
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Default Seal?

Do you have any advice as to how to keep the seal between the flange and hose to stay on correctly? When I put the hose in it messes up the seal this creating a leak.....what a pita! Thanks -Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny (dremel) View Post
Unplug Coolant Temp Sensor
Remove Coolant Expansion Tank
Disconnect all brackets securing the oil line running along the back of the head (from the oil cooler to the turbocharger) - 10mm and 13mm bolts and 8mm hex
Disconnect banjo bolt for oil line (don't lose the seals) - 8mm hex
Remove upper bolt securing Coolant Flange to cylinder head (10mm)
Remove bolts securing coolant supply line to flange (10mm)
Remove lower nut (10mm) on coolant flange securing oil line bracket
Move oil line safely out of the way
Remove combo bolt (10mm) that secures coolant flange to cylinder head
Remove coolant flange
Disconnect heat exchanger supply line by removing the metal clip with a flathead screwdriver and pulling the solid line away from you.

After this, be sure you have a new coolant flange with applicable o-rings. Install the Coolant Temperature Sensor BEFORE you put the flange back! Once you've got your O-rings squared away, the installation is the reverse of above.

On a personal note, the Bentley's instructions for this (as with most AWM nuances) completely blow. It makes no mention of needing to move the oil return line, nor the fact that the second bolt securing the flange to the head is a combo bolt. With limited visibility to the rear of the AWM engine, most of this was figured out with a pocket mirror, flashlight and combining the B5 and B6 instructions (which were on Audizine).

I wish you and your knuckles good luck with this one.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:26 PM   #16
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Nice Post!
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:18 PM   #17
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Yes, six years old and still helpful.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:14 PM   #18
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Getting ready to tackle this job on an AWM engine. I already knew I had a coolant leak but now that just replaced the breather hose with a new 034 motorsports kit I created an even bigger leak. I learned the hard way that the bracket that holds the breather metal tube (part of the pcv valve system) on the back of the engine is actually connected to the coolant flange thus making my coolant leak much worse.Never reinstalled it because I didnt know it was one of the bolts going in the flange and the new breather tube replaced the metal tube with a silicone one not needing to be attached. Oh well you live and learn the hard way sometimes. I just ordered a new o.e.m. flange from ECS. Hopefully will be here in a couple of days! Other than the new rubber seal that comes with the flange are there any other seals I should replace while in there? Maybe the sensor seal and if so where can I find one other than a dealership?
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket3004 View Post
I know you mentioned you didn't see any physical damage, so that would lead me to beleive that just the seals are bad.

Any corrosion or anything else to suggest the replace the whole thing?

Nice writeup!

I would always replace the flange and oring together, the flange is plastic, they warp, crumble, crack, errode pinholes, ect. They are like, 15 bucks.

Also, I remove the heater hose quick connect before removing the flange from the head. I just grab them and put some weight into it and wiggle and pull and it pops right off. I always put on a new temp sensor since the rather high failure items also.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:35 PM   #20
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Hi, the images on this post do not display. Please advise. Thank y
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:35 PM
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