Originally Posted by clancy

I have been hoping an intake air leak would become more obvious so I don't have to work so hard to find it. I know, I am lazy. But I am figuring if I ignore it long enough it will present more clues as to where it is located.

I consistently get 17544 P1136 and 17546 P1138 codes (system too lean - intermittent on both bank 1 & 2). After a reset/clear they show up again in 25-100 miles. Looking at Group 032 the long term trim works its way up until the codes are set again. Since it is always both banks I am assuming it is an area common to both and after the MAF. I am not getting any other error codes so I am also assuming the MAF must be fine???

I have looked for obvious air leaks, cracked PVC hoses, disconnected plumbing that is easily found, but have not gone any deeper. I will if I have to, but not until the weather is much warmer.

NEW info: When the car is started in cold weather I cannot accelerate for the first one or two minutes or the engine will hesitate badly, not even want to move when I try to back out of my garage, and it will set codes for random cylinder misfires 16684 P0300. If I just let it sit for a couple minutes then there are no random misfire codes set. I am also assuming when first stated it is getting a ricer fuel mix and trying to accelerate with the air leak negates the richer fuel and this is why it misses. However, if I just let it idle for a couple of minutes then the car runs fine and accelerates well, plenty of turbo boost when I stuff it after it warms up properly. Does this help to further identify where my air leak might be?

Yes, I am hoping I will eventually get enough symptoms to tell me where my leak is without having to replace unnecessary parts. Any danger in ignoring this until the weather warms and I figure it out?

Does this point to something you veterans see as the culprit?

Thanks

Will spraying starter fluid on the air supply work to find a leak?