Axle broken?
09-02-2014, 09:32 AM
#1
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Axle broken?
I have a sort of click when I go over bumps or when I get on an entry, for example. I removed the driver side wheel since it comes from there, I tried to find a play in the suspension arms, but nothing happens. By cons, when I pull the axle toward the wheel and when I push toward the transmission, it moves more or less half an inch. There is no play when I push up or down, only to wheel and then to the transmission. Is this is the axle that must change or there would be a kind of BRACKET that is broken? Thank you for comments.
09-02-2014, 07:05 PM
#2
The axle should slide back and forth in the CV joint as you described. The axle is a fixed length metal rod. It needs to be able to slide inside the CV joints as the suspension moves up and down, otherwise it would try to punch a hole in the gearbox when the suspension compressors and the distance between the wheel and the gearbox decreases. If the axle is broken, you can spin the wheel, the outer CV joint will spin and the one on the gearbox will remain stationary. The click is most likely the CV joint, and generally the outer one nearest the wheel. This one gets most of the abuse as it travels with the wheel and is more exposed to being hit by objects on the road. If you jack the car up as high as you can, spin the wheel slowly you may here the clicking. You may also see the rubber boot is damaged and the grease escaping. The good news is the outer CV's are reasonably cheap part. Options are:
1. you can do the replacement yourself as long as you have some tools and don't mind getting dirty hands. A CV 'Kit' will come with the new CV, new boot, new sir-clips, new boot clips and even the correct grease. The inner ones are a bit harder, cost a lot more but would be rare to fail unless you have done a lot of miles or been 4WDing your A4.
2. CV replacements are common on all cars, if you are not in a position to do it yourself a mechanic will charge you about 1 hour plus parts.
3. Third option if you want to do it yourself and you suspect the inner or both have failed is to get an exchange axle complete with CV's already attached, greased up ready to go. A lot of the A6 Allroad guys do this, (allroads tend to destroy the CV's a bit quicker as they have longer suspension travel). This option means you don't get as dirty and someone else has packed the grease in the CV for you.
There are plenty of examples on you tube of home mechanics changing CV's if you want to understand what you are in for before buying the parts.
1. you can do the replacement yourself as long as you have some tools and don't mind getting dirty hands. A CV 'Kit' will come with the new CV, new boot, new sir-clips, new boot clips and even the correct grease. The inner ones are a bit harder, cost a lot more but would be rare to fail unless you have done a lot of miles or been 4WDing your A4.
2. CV replacements are common on all cars, if you are not in a position to do it yourself a mechanic will charge you about 1 hour plus parts.
3. Third option if you want to do it yourself and you suspect the inner or both have failed is to get an exchange axle complete with CV's already attached, greased up ready to go. A lot of the A6 Allroad guys do this, (allroads tend to destroy the CV's a bit quicker as they have longer suspension travel). This option means you don't get as dirty and someone else has packed the grease in the CV for you.
There are plenty of examples on you tube of home mechanics changing CV's if you want to understand what you are in for before buying the parts.
09-02-2014, 09:13 PM
#3
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Thanks, John. I will buy an other axle and just replace the part. I'm thinking to buy one at the scrap. Until now I have replaced the ABS module bought at the scrap, and the drive shaft bought also in the same place with good results (the drive shaft was not bad, but we have replaced thinking that was the cause for a vibration problem but finally it was not this part ). They give me one year warranty at a low cost and I think I will not keep the car for several years.
09-03-2014, 05:55 PM
#4
Depending on where you are, most times it's relatively cheap to remove the axle complete with both CV's. Place a plastic shopping bag on each end to contain the grease and take it to a specialist driveshaft workshop in your area, they will remove the old CV's, confirm your axle is true, fit new CV's and you know everything is new and will last another 8-10 years. Doesn't have to be an Audi specialist, CV's are common to nearly all new cars now. Audi use GKN CV's, if you have an option, they were the standard Audi part. Some places even offer a 'swap', for one ready to go. The problem with purchasing a second hand shaft is you don't know if it is straight & true, when they drop the part out it can potentially get some grit in the CV's which will destroy the CV really quickly and if it is already the same age as yours you may be doing the job again even if they will warranty the part, it's you under the car getting dirty. Check out your local driveshaft replacement options, my local mechanic put me on to the idea, they quite often use the service as it can be quicker time wise when they replace both CV's.
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09-07-2014, 07:13 PM
#7
The axle is very hard to break. Is it possible - Yes, is it likely - No. Its a solid steel rod with a spline at each end that the CV slides on. Very rare to break unless you hit something very hard or you snuck a 700+ HP giant killer engine in your A4.
Very likely its the outer CV at the wheel. The inner is well protected and doesn't move that much, the outer gets knocked around with the wheel , is exposed to impacts of road debri, and is stressed more with steering lock etc. Generally your will replace 2 to 3 outer to every 1 inner. Jack the car up in a quite place like a garage so suspension is at full travel, spin the wheel slowly and move the steering, you should hear the faint 'clicks' and even feel them on the axle. They are only faint as there is no weight of the car on the CV.
What you are listening too is two steel half cages and half a dozen or so large ball bearings moving in a grease. When the cage gets worn by wear or some dirt in the grease, the ball bearing can wear a divot that it will sit in in normal straight line driving. When you turn the steering wheel at low speeds, the ball bearing moves in and out of the divot to the end of the race, creating a 'click sound. That's why you generally only hear the noise when turning. The broken rubber boot is one indication because it lets the dirt in and the grease out, speeding up the wear process. The CV's can just wear down from use, or someone else may have changed a boot previously with some grime still in the grease so the condition of the rubber boot is not necessarily an indicator.
Diztek mentioned Raxle as another replacement option. They do a swap out service. We don't have that in Australia so I cannot comment but a quick search of these forums you will find numerous discussions.
Very likely its the outer CV at the wheel. The inner is well protected and doesn't move that much, the outer gets knocked around with the wheel , is exposed to impacts of road debri, and is stressed more with steering lock etc. Generally your will replace 2 to 3 outer to every 1 inner. Jack the car up in a quite place like a garage so suspension is at full travel, spin the wheel slowly and move the steering, you should hear the faint 'clicks' and even feel them on the axle. They are only faint as there is no weight of the car on the CV.
What you are listening too is two steel half cages and half a dozen or so large ball bearings moving in a grease. When the cage gets worn by wear or some dirt in the grease, the ball bearing can wear a divot that it will sit in in normal straight line driving. When you turn the steering wheel at low speeds, the ball bearing moves in and out of the divot to the end of the race, creating a 'click sound. That's why you generally only hear the noise when turning. The broken rubber boot is one indication because it lets the dirt in and the grease out, speeding up the wear process. The CV's can just wear down from use, or someone else may have changed a boot previously with some grime still in the grease so the condition of the rubber boot is not necessarily an indicator.
Diztek mentioned Raxle as another replacement option. They do a swap out service. We don't have that in Australia so I cannot comment but a quick search of these forums you will find numerous discussions.
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09-08-2014, 12:41 PM
#8
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The axle is very hard to break. Is it possible - Yes, is it likely - No. Its a solid steel rod with a spline at each end that the CV slides on. Very rare to break unless you hit something very hard or you snuck a 700+ HP giant killer engine in your A4.
Very likely its the outer CV at the wheel. The inner is well protected and doesn't move that much, the outer gets knocked around with the wheel , is exposed to impacts of road debri, and is stressed more with steering lock etc. Generally your will replace 2 to 3 outer to every 1 inner. Jack the car up in a quite place like a garage so suspension is at full travel, spin the wheel slowly and move the steering, you should hear the faint 'clicks' and even feel them on the axle. They are only faint as there is no weight of the car on the CV.
What you are listening too is two steel half cages and half a dozen or so large ball bearings moving in a grease. When the cage gets worn by wear or some dirt in the grease, the ball bearing can wear a divot that it will sit in in normal straight line driving. When you turn the steering wheel at low speeds, the ball bearing moves in and out of the divot to the end of the race, creating a 'click sound. That's why you generally only hear the noise when turning. The broken rubber boot is one indication because it lets the dirt in and the grease out, speeding up the wear process. The CV's can just wear down from use, or someone else may have changed a boot previously with some grime still in the grease so the condition of the rubber boot is not necessarily an indicator.
Diztek mentioned Raxle as another replacement option. They do a swap out service. We don't have that in Australia so I cannot comment but a quick search of these forums you will find numerous discussions.
Very likely its the outer CV at the wheel. The inner is well protected and doesn't move that much, the outer gets knocked around with the wheel , is exposed to impacts of road debri, and is stressed more with steering lock etc. Generally your will replace 2 to 3 outer to every 1 inner. Jack the car up in a quite place like a garage so suspension is at full travel, spin the wheel slowly and move the steering, you should hear the faint 'clicks' and even feel them on the axle. They are only faint as there is no weight of the car on the CV.
What you are listening too is two steel half cages and half a dozen or so large ball bearings moving in a grease. When the cage gets worn by wear or some dirt in the grease, the ball bearing can wear a divot that it will sit in in normal straight line driving. When you turn the steering wheel at low speeds, the ball bearing moves in and out of the divot to the end of the race, creating a 'click sound. That's why you generally only hear the noise when turning. The broken rubber boot is one indication because it lets the dirt in and the grease out, speeding up the wear process. The CV's can just wear down from use, or someone else may have changed a boot previously with some grime still in the grease so the condition of the rubber boot is not necessarily an indicator.
Diztek mentioned Raxle as another replacement option. They do a swap out service. We don't have that in Australia so I cannot comment but a quick search of these forums you will find numerous discussions.
09-08-2014, 02:32 PM
#9
Thanks for the input Prospeeder, I've mainly played with A6 and BMW axles on road cars and porsche on the off road race buggy. Never had issues but only done 1 set of CV's on the A4. Agree a broken axle also means - the car not moving any more. Jorge's car is still moving, just has the 'clicking noise' on the drivers side. So assuming the CV checks out as the source of the problem, then Diztek's suggestion of Raxle replacement is probably the best option if it's available, eliminating both CV's and the axle with minimal wrench work and new CV's.
09-09-2014, 11:39 PM
#10
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Thanks for the input Prospeeder, I've mainly played with A6 and BMW axles on road cars and porsche on the off road race buggy. Never had issues but only done 1 set of CV's on the A4. Agree a broken axle also means - the car not moving any more. Jorge's car is still moving, just has the 'clicking noise' on the drivers side. So assuming the CV checks out as the source of the problem, then Diztek's suggestion of Raxle replacement is probably the best option if it's available, eliminating both CV's and the axle with minimal wrench work and new CV's.