Originally Posted by siegen

I bought the car at 49k miles and the fluid it had in it appeared to be brown. I flushed it completely with green OEM Audi fluid after I started hearing noise the first winter (noise went away after flush). At some point after that was when I noticed the leak on the original rack (not sure exactly when, but within a year). Replaced it with the rebuilt rack and topped it off with OEM fluid. It's possible non-OEM fluid could have prematurely damaged the original rack, and perhaps poor replacement seals could have doomed the second rack. My luck with this car hasn't been stellar to say the least.

I did the removal and install myself. The first time was pretty aggravating. The hardest part is when you have to get the rack into or out of position. Getting to all the bolts isn't too bad. After doing the removal and install 3 complete times I have gotten really good at it. The reason I did it 3 times was because Cardone sent incorrectly-assembled racks the first two times (the steering shaft was off by 180°). I had to call the tech, who then realized that they were assembling them incorrectly. Needless to say I don't have a ton of faith in them and it is possible the seal was not installed perfectly.

Some tricks that will help with the uninstall and install:

Use a floor jack under the driver's side suspension to lift it until it is fully compressed (but not enough to lift the car off the jack stands). Then use a strap to hold the driver's suspension fully turned to the left. This gets the upper arm out of the way as much as possible. Do this after disconnecting the tie rods.

When installing or removing the rack, I rotate it 45° counter-clockwise (the shaft will be aiming up and to the right), which I found to be the best way to get it in and out. One of the P/S lines runs in a coil that will probably be in the way a lot. I had to firmly push it to the side to get the rack past it. I've noticed on all the rebuilt racks I've seen, the two lines that run along the body were always mangled up, indicating that other people were not having a fun time removing the racks. I managed to get my rack in and out without damaging anything. When removing it, I did find it easier to unfasten the two lines on the driver's end. Going in required a bit of squeezing.

I've heard people say that it is an easy job. It is for me now, but the first time was very difficult. I've done the timing belt and water pump replacement (with rental tools from Blauparts) and I would say that job takes longer but is less aggravating. It all boils down to how easily you can get the rack past the suspension I think. It will feel like there isn't enough clearance, but it can be done.

Originally Posted by erusse02

I'm in the process of replacing the rack in my 02 A4 (b6) Quattro 3.0, I'm having a hell of a time locating the 3rd 10MM under mount bolt. I am getting conflicting stories on web forums... since you replaced many times .. do I need to lower the cross member, remove exhaust & heat shields to access bolt or can I access bolt without these steps. Area is covered with heat shields, but im reading forums that state I can remove without exhaust etc.note sure they are referencing 3.0 or 1.8 or B5, B6 or B7 . If you can provide some insight tips I would greatly appreciate it!!.. Thanks Erik!!