My Overheating Problem during traffic:Radiator fans Acting Quirky?!...
#1
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My Overheating Problem during traffic:Radiator fans Acting Quirky?!...
So my A4 starts having Overheating problem when I get stuck on traffic...temp gauge goes way up and Coolant Light starts flashing after 8-10 mins on slow traffic.... I pull over,keep the the car idling , open the trunk and what I always notice is that the twin radiator fans are not spinning. At first I thought the fans died or has some power disconnection.... But often when I start my car (especially on cold mornings)...the twin fans still works and are spinning fine & working.
I can only assume the twin fans not working on slow traffic is what causing the overheating....cause once traffic is moving fast,..my temp gauge will go down back to normal (middle) & the coolant warning light will go away...
Any Tips?...Thnxs.....
I can only assume the twin fans not working on slow traffic is what causing the overheating....cause once traffic is moving fast,..my temp gauge will go down back to normal (middle) & the coolant warning light will go away...
Any Tips?...Thnxs.....
#2
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Unless there is a relationship with when they do or don't run and whether it is raining / has rained (clogged drains causing ECU to be sitting in water), it is likely the fan controller. The fans should not come on when the car is cold and you note that your gage seems to function if the car is moving. Anyone else?
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Goitse Kgosi (01-12-2021)
#3
Other option is the fan control temperature sensor (p/n 06A919501A on my 1.8T). They are about $10-$15 after market and $40 genuine.
This is the grey 2 pin sensor in the bottom radiator hose connection, not the green one on the motor that provides the gauge reading. This sensor provides the information to the fan controller discussed by lyleswk.
If you leave the blue cap on the expansion tank tight, you can change this sensor without emptying the coolant, you will loose about 1 cup of water. Remove the electrical connector, there is a large clip to remove and the sensor comes out easy. You need a new O ring on the sensor (P/N -N90316802), just check you get one when you order the sensor. The clip is plastic (P/N 032121142), I would replace that just because the are only $1 each.
This is the grey 2 pin sensor in the bottom radiator hose connection, not the green one on the motor that provides the gauge reading. This sensor provides the information to the fan controller discussed by lyleswk.
If you leave the blue cap on the expansion tank tight, you can change this sensor without emptying the coolant, you will loose about 1 cup of water. Remove the electrical connector, there is a large clip to remove and the sensor comes out easy. You need a new O ring on the sensor (P/N -N90316802), just check you get one when you order the sensor. The clip is plastic (P/N 032121142), I would replace that just because the are only $1 each.
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Update
Well,...the (2) Coolant Sensors (Below the radiator & Green one by the Firewall) did'nt fix the problem....Fan still does'nt kick in when AC is on or when stuck on slow traffic.......
went ahead and test both fans and they work when jumped with direct 12V power.....
Friends think its the Fan Control Module that is attach above the Dual radiator fan... (a $300 part *Yikes*)...
One thing I did notice is when driving on the highway...my engine temp will go way down pass mid level (25%)....and jump to overheating levels when stuck in traffic....
Thats when someone suspect ECM problem....
*sigh*...ready to hang up this once trusty beast...
went ahead and test both fans and they work when jumped with direct 12V power.....
Friends think its the Fan Control Module that is attach above the Dual radiator fan... (a $300 part *Yikes*)...
One thing I did notice is when driving on the highway...my engine temp will go way down pass mid level (25%)....and jump to overheating levels when stuck in traffic....
Thats when someone suspect ECM problem....
*sigh*...ready to hang up this once trusty beast...
#6
Other option is the fan control temperature sensor (p/n 06A919501A on my 1.8T). They are about $10-$15 after market and $40 genuine.
This is the grey 2 pin sensor in the bottom radiator hose connection, not the green one on the motor that provides the gauge reading. This sensor provides the information to the fan controller discussed by lyleswk.
If you leave the blue cap on the expansion tank tight, you can change this sensor without emptying the coolant, you will loose about 1 cup of water. Remove the electrical connector, there is a large clip to remove and the sensor comes out easy. You need a new O ring on the sensor (P/N -N90316802), just check you get one when you order the sensor. The clip is plastic (P/N 032121142), I would replace that just because the are only $1 each.
This is the grey 2 pin sensor in the bottom radiator hose connection, not the green one on the motor that provides the gauge reading. This sensor provides the information to the fan controller discussed by lyleswk.
If you leave the blue cap on the expansion tank tight, you can change this sensor without emptying the coolant, you will loose about 1 cup of water. Remove the electrical connector, there is a large clip to remove and the sensor comes out easy. You need a new O ring on the sensor (P/N -N90316802), just check you get one when you order the sensor. The clip is plastic (P/N 032121142), I would replace that just because the are only $1 each.
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