No, it is not overheating. It works and blows fine as if it was working normal, but it just doesn't blow any hot air. I almost seem like it is something with the coil switch not working, but how would I go about fixing that.
and took out the hose to the heater core and used a garden hose to the heater core for 10 mins. Then for another 10 mins, I put the garden hose to the heater core hose, then put the garden hose to the reservoir. Hope it helps, I saw a lot of debris coming out. This girls A4 hot air hasn't worked in over a year.
Yes, a co-worker and I flushed the header core and now I am getting lots of heat. It works like brand new.
I took my vehicle in to the dealership for a diagnostic. BAD MISTAKE! They royally ripped me off.
This is what they recommended and quoted me:
- $400 for a coolant flange replacement, which supposedly was leaking coolant.
- $1,400 to replace water pump and timing belt.
- Maybe replace the heater core.
- And, if that did not fix it; then, sale me a new car probably.
Luckily, I stopped after they replace the coolant flange, but nonetheless, I was $400 out-of-pocket for no good reason. With no heat!
Symptoms: No hot air when the heat was on while car was parked, but when driving the heat would blow hot as normal. My thermostat temp gauge in the car dash was normal (1/2 way). Do this before you start buying a thermostat, heater core, etc.
I found yesterday that my heater core was filled with air. i found a thread on here and it said to feel both hoses that are attached to the heater core while the engine is up and running, if one is hot to the touch and the other is cold or outside temp cool, then something is wrong with the heater core. So before i went ahead and removed the hoses (to further troubleshoot/flush heater core) i ran the car until the coolant system was pressurized (with cap on). Then i took a pair of pliers, removed the clamp on the colder heater hose, and squeezed the top of the colder heater hose. If the hoses are factory it should have a small hole at the top of the hose (i assume this is what this is for). After squeezing the top of the cooler hose i saw air bleed out of the heater core (colder hose) and then it followed with a squirt of coolant. I did this about 5 or 6 times until most of the air was bleed and wah-la, i got heat hotter than ever before! This evolution took about a half hour making sure that my system was pressurized first before bleeding off the air. i hope this helps someone because the winter is approaching fast and i need the heat!!!!
It should be as cold as the outside temp. but you could feel the inlet tube way hotter than the other. Its going to be obvious. So the remedy is to bleed the air out of the heater core by loosening the colder tube (removing the metal tie) and squeezing the top portion of the tube so that air squeeks out, followed by a squirt of coolant. Keep that up until you have hot air. On another note the reason why my system had air was because i had a crack in my coolant flange located on the back of the engine (where the EGR valve connects to). So that had to be removed. Thank god for my warranty, if not i'd be 600 in the hole to get that thing removed and put back together. It looked like a PITA to get to. But to give you a heads up on where that coolant flange is check the tech site.
- Get your car warmed up properly.
- Opent he hood and feel both heater core hoses. In a properly operating system, both will be hot to the touch. If one hose is hot and the other is cold you've got a plugged up heater core.
- If its plugged, pull both heater core hoses off and spray your garden hose though there till it runs clear, then do it in the other side. Repeat till it runs clear in both directions all the time.
- Put it all back together, fill your overflow bottle and purge the air out of the system.
I just went out tonight and got the car up to temp, then I felt both hoses. Sure enough the outlet was cold and the inlet was hot. I turned off the car, disconnected both hoses and blasted the crap out of it in both directions until it was clear.