lyleswk

Some more potentially pertinent material...

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ighlight=relay

besi

did some tests and it looks like theres a fuse or relay blown somewhere. Possible some main one.

I tested the relays and relay 381 and 185 hav no power going to them.

Fuses #'s have no power going to them.

29 20A
28 15A
32 20A
34 15A

Im also not getting any power to the 5 amp fuse under the steering wheel and the 5 amap insude thr ecu box.

I will put up some pictures of the testin I did with a multimeter. Not sure if they lead me in ant direction.

Aside from the side panel and under the steering wheel, where else can I look for fuses./relays, aside from under steering wheel and the side.

Here are a couple of pucs.

1st pic is power to injectors
2nd is power to coil pack
3rd and 4th is the abs module

Will post ecu readings next.

besi

ECU

besi

ABS

besi

I have had no luck with the problem so far, just an update.

Manual Transmission AWM

Aside from the fuse panel that's between the drivers door and dash, and relay panel under the steering wheel, are there any other areas that hold relay's or fuses. I've checked 2 relays and 2 fuses inside the ECM Box which seem to be fine. They all get power to them, except one 5a fuse in there.

I've checked all the fuses:

The following don't have any power to them:
Fuse #28 - 15A
Fuse #29 - 20A
Fuse #32 - 20A
Fuse #34 - 15A

I checked the same fuses on my 2003 Audi A4 1.8 Automatic AWD, and they don't also get power when the ignition switch is on. Power starts flowing through only after the car starts running.

What does relay #429 inside the ECM box control?
Also, Relay #185 and Relay #381 also have no power going to them - When I test the terminals.

There's no spark on the coils when engine turns.

Also, My Radio will not turn on.

The immobilizer sign comes ON on the dash, and after about 2 seconds disappears.

The engine light is non existent.

ABS Light comes on and stays on.

The E-Brake signal comes and stays on.

I tried hooking up Ross-TECH VCDS but nothing, No response.

There's power going to the ABS Module.

As far as modules to inspect (ECM, TCM, CCM, Fuel Pump, ABS, and Radio) how many other modules am I looking at.

A Used ECM is about 50bucks at the scrap yard, the TCM and CCM are similar. do they each need to be programmed separately. Since I can't get them to communicate, getting the pin off each module is out of the questions for me.

It's going to the shop on Monday, but If I can figure it out before then, it should save me some CASHIOLA.

I tested the fuel pump and it works. When I turn the key, the engine turns but the relay doesn't engage to send the fuel pump power. If I manually press the contacts on the relay, the pump starts running but no ignition.

VW advised to place a wrench or something to connect the positive and negative terminals on the battery for about 15 seconds or so to try and reset the computers. ??????????? I am reluctant to try this and cause more damage.

If the ECM, or any other control module is fried, is it possible to fry them without burning one fuse?

blazemma

Besi, I am having the same issue. Were you able to figure this out?

jflow45

Not sure about the wrench with the battery connected...that will get you zapped. The normal recommendation is to disconnect both terminals and touch the positive and negative terminals together. This will discharge the capacitors and reset all modules. Good luck...

John535is

Besi -jflow45 and the audi tech are talking about the battery leads, not the battery terminals. Disconnect both leads from the battery, and connect both leads together, (not the battery terminals - thats kinda explosive!). You can use a battery jumper cable or something to connect the leads together (electrical continuity) to discharge the ECU and any settings. (The BMW I had recommended 15 minutes, never tested with different times). The ECU (if it's still good) has a default basic setting. This also resets the throttle body. When you reconnect the battery, turn the ignition to ON, don't start it. You should hear the throttle body going through the adaptation process (whining noise!). Don't interrupt the adaptation, it should whine for about 30-60 seconds as it adapts full open, full closed etc.
When it's finished doing it's thing, turn ignition to off, then start. If it does start, it may be a bit rough idle at first. This is due to the ECU 'basic settings'. Just let it run, it should trim the idle after a minute or 2. Same when you take it for a drive, the ECU will re-learn the settings it needs.