prijedor

Thinking of purchasing this car.
Owned Audis for 20 years, had 4000,5000,B3 80,B4 90,currently have 2001 A4 2.8 Quattro tiptronic, and 1989 200 Quattro.
Try to do most of the work myself and with friends help who has repair shop.
Would like to store 200q in winter time to preserve it.

What are things to look out for on B7 2.0T and how do you guys compare them to some of the older Audis,like ones that I have or used to have. Is water pump visible if some of the top plastic covers are removed?

Dolamite

Water pump isn't a big worry and is an easy fix. I'd be more concerned in other areas, but first I'd find out if it is chipped. If it is, most likely it's been driven hard. From there I'd steer clear of any "upgrades" - which is bullsh it term. Why would you want a car with aftermarket parts that are made in China because the previous owner wanted to beat eleven seconds in the quarter-mile.

Either way I'd be concerned with fractures between valve and sparkplug seats. Oil pooling up in cylinders fouling plugs and causing misfires. Bad exhaust related to oil/coolant escaping into the emissions system, including the turbo. Worn turbo for that matter.

B7s are notorious oil burners. Away from any cracks, the cylinders and piston rings have exceeded tolerances and allow oil to get past and into the combustion chamber. Timing chain tensioner gets worn and in the same area you want to check to see if the cam follower isn't or hasn't blown ever, causing metal shards that get ground up and into all friction areas. Make sure a poorly installed or broken timing belt hasn't caused valve damage. From here it gets a bit more tame and easier(not cheaper) to fix, like the coolant flange, leaky oil filter housing and oil cooler etc.. Transmission - obvious.

Simple things like checking the coolant reservoir for rust and oil can tell you visually what may be going on. BTW it should always be pink g12 coolant with distilled water ALWAYS. Seepage from the steering/tie rod boots - new rack.

I can go on. Ultimately your best friend in your situation or anyone considering or owns a b7 is to get a VAGCOM hex+candus unlimited version. A used car is a used car, however if you're definitely going to get a used b7, you need it now and after you get the car. There are things that you may not see, but only find after you've owned it. Imagine somewhere down the road you realize you have a bent rod or have to remill the head. I'll believe the vagcom not the owner. It will pay for itself.

Regarding the mileage and price, that I'd knock down [B]at least[B]a grand.

Good luck.

Dolamite

To answer your question regarding the water pump. No, the timing belt cover needs to be removed. People will say that plastic impeller oe will destroy itself but I've never come across anyone that had this happen. You do want to change it 70-110k miles. If you look at some of the after market metal impellar pumps, they are poorly assembled. Some are very prone to leak. If you can stick with "OE" not "OEM". Nowadays that term gets thrown around in gross fashion I'm sure you're aware.

LennyD

Based on the above it would seem that you should have the same concerns as with your B5 with a couple new ones.

My concern is that unless everything is up to date and beyond service wise and the car is otherwise perfect you may be paying a bit too much.

Since I was looking for the same basic car (B7 or B8) I know there are others out there with less miles for less money so you may want to keep looking while you do your research.

Actually recently walked away from one that was at a similar asking price, had only 70K and was newer. It wasn't perfect but you could have covered the needed repairs with the difference (was accepting 1K less) and have a newer lower mileage car.