2007 A4 2.0T B7 engine problems...
09-28-2010, 04:27 AM
#12
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I am aware of the cam follower issue and have already priced what it would cost to have it looked at and changed if necessary. I'll have it checked at my next servicing 70,000km (~45,000 miles) in about a month or so.
Thanks
01-10-2011, 01:19 PM
#13
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BSH PCV fix sucks. After I had it installed, the erratic idle problem went away, but while driving the car felt like it was going to stall when I came to a stop. Also, it messed with my turbo. I wasn't getting any boost after installing it professionally. I went with the new OEM Pressure Regulator Valve (PCV) which by the way was $15 cheaper from the DEALER, and all my troubles went away.
05-06-2014, 06:44 AM
#14
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Another MacGyver...and warranty extension
Aped your approach and also successfully patched my PCV value. In sourcing a replacement part I discovered that there is an updated part (probably common knowledge) and with it is recommend a replacement breather tube with included check value. Best of all, turns out Audi has extended the warranty on this part for 10yrs, 120k mi...so cost = $0 at dealer to have the replacement done.
Thanks for the temp repair idea.
Thanks for the temp repair idea.
Hey Coond
Just went through this on mine. It was the PCV valve that had a huge tear in it. If you take the engine cover off you'll see the valve assembly on the right side of the valve cover. On the back (firewall side) of the round piece there is a little "nipple" (hie hie... I said nipple) if you listen close to it you will hear some vacuum, if you close this little hole with your finger the car will almost stall... That means you need a new PCV valve... 10 min job, 5 screws.
I had a little workaround (will post some pics later so people can perhaps do it in a bind) when ours went. I opened up the round diaphram piece. This is pretty easy, just unclip the sides and it pops off. I could clearly see the tear in the diaphram. My interim (while the new one was on order) was to cover the top of the diaphram
Clean the diaphram thoroughly. Then cover the top side of the diaphram with a thin layer of silicone sealant. This is not to seal it just to hold the Nitrile. Now take a Nitrile glove and cut the palm piece out. Put the nitrile over the wet silicone and made sure the valve diaphram will be able to travel ("move"), by pushing some of the nitrile into the edges of the diaphram. I used a second layer of nitride, but I don't think it was necessary. If it pops this first one you might have to add a second layer. Next cut the rest of the nitrile to fit the diaphram and put the whole thing together.
Mine lasted for a week without any trouble, until I got my new one and had time to put it in! That what I call "McGuyver-ed"... LOL
Cheers
Massboykie
Just went through this on mine. It was the PCV valve that had a huge tear in it. If you take the engine cover off you'll see the valve assembly on the right side of the valve cover. On the back (firewall side) of the round piece there is a little "nipple" (hie hie... I said nipple) if you listen close to it you will hear some vacuum, if you close this little hole with your finger the car will almost stall... That means you need a new PCV valve... 10 min job, 5 screws.
I had a little workaround (will post some pics later so people can perhaps do it in a bind) when ours went. I opened up the round diaphram piece. This is pretty easy, just unclip the sides and it pops off. I could clearly see the tear in the diaphram. My interim (while the new one was on order) was to cover the top of the diaphram
Clean the diaphram thoroughly. Then cover the top side of the diaphram with a thin layer of silicone sealant. This is not to seal it just to hold the Nitrile. Now take a Nitrile glove and cut the palm piece out. Put the nitrile over the wet silicone and made sure the valve diaphram will be able to travel ("move"), by pushing some of the nitrile into the edges of the diaphram. I used a second layer of nitride, but I don't think it was necessary. If it pops this first one you might have to add a second layer. Next cut the rest of the nitrile to fit the diaphram and put the whole thing together.
Mine lasted for a week without any trouble, until I got my new one and had time to put it in! That what I call "McGuyver-ed"... LOL
Cheers
Massboykie
11-06-2015, 02:10 PM
#15
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Bogging down at take off and when starting have to kepp foot on gas pedal
Well i have replaced the CCV valve with a oem one with the hoses also the throttle body while i had that off i did the thermostat air filter is new also this is on a 2007 audi a4 2.0 TFSI quattro i still have the stallong of the engine and when i keep it running it bogs down at take off but after that she runs great and suggestions im at the end of my string here also i have coils and spark plugs coming next was looking for the EGR valve thought it was supposed to be by the throttle body but its not, was going to clean it out but cant find it So guys give me some ideas please
11-09-2015, 03:46 AM
#17
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Hello.
We seem to be having similar issues with our b7.
Its an A4 2.0T it seems that when we are cruising with light load/throttle then we get a missfire/shuddering going on.
We exchanged the PVC valve to a new one and changed the pluggs but it refuses to go away.
When we apply more throttle we dont have the issue.
Any ideas?
We seem to be having similar issues with our b7.
Its an A4 2.0T it seems that when we are cruising with light load/throttle then we get a missfire/shuddering going on.
We exchanged the PVC valve to a new one and changed the pluggs but it refuses to go away.
When we apply more throttle we dont have the issue.
Any ideas?
11-13-2015, 08:01 AM
#19
If you've used the correct plugs then move to new ignition coils - unless you know for sure the cylinder w/ the misfire. Buy two at a time. They're reasonably priced at Audi and you can get them from VW as well
VW may charge you more. Have your VIN ready.
VW may charge you more. Have your VIN ready.
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