Coolant Leak....safe to drive?
01-15-2015, 11:13 AM
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Coolant Leak....safe to drive?
Apparently I posted in the wrong forum and was quickly alerted to that. Yikes, we're even segregated as Audi owners? J/K...anyway if anyone could help me, I've reposted my question below. Thanks!
#1
Yesterday 11:40 PM by realuv
Hi all, new to the forum here. I have a 2006 A4 that has gone from a slow coolant leak into refilling every two days leak. I took it in to a random mechanic (usually go to Audi). I was told I needed some heater hoses, water connector, and turbo coolant line (I may haver butchered those terms, but that's what I remember him saying). Anyway it was $1,600 maybe more, maybe less depending on when he really inspects it. Obviously, I didn't get it fixed (recent graduate and no income until the new job starts next week....great timing.) Anyway, is it safe to drive if I keep refilling? They told me not to drive it as I run the risk of ruining my engine. I've been driving it anyway around town for short distances, but my job will be about a 40 mile roundtrip with freeways. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. I dont' know if it matters but I live in Southern California and temperatures have not been extreme.
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#1
Yesterday 11:40 PM by realuv
Hi all, new to the forum here. I have a 2006 A4 that has gone from a slow coolant leak into refilling every two days leak. I took it in to a random mechanic (usually go to Audi). I was told I needed some heater hoses, water connector, and turbo coolant line (I may haver butchered those terms, but that's what I remember him saying). Anyway it was $1,600 maybe more, maybe less depending on when he really inspects it. Obviously, I didn't get it fixed (recent graduate and no income until the new job starts next week....great timing.) Anyway, is it safe to drive if I keep refilling? They told me not to drive it as I run the risk of ruining my engine. I've been driving it anyway around town for short distances, but my job will be about a 40 mile roundtrip with freeways. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. I dont' know if it matters but I live in Southern California and temperatures have not been extreme.
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01-15-2015, 04:49 PM
#2
Your mechanic has given you good advice - no it's not safe to drive any distances and yes- you can ruin the engine. These engines are quite high performance, but also susceptible to extensive damage if you run out of coolant. If you want to risk short distances, thats your call, but if you are barrelling along a highway and the leak becomes worse, you loose all your coolant and you now have a very hot engine, possible seizure, possible warp head - you get the picture. Have a quick read on these sites of owners who have had to do a head gasket change and besides expensive to repair, some engines never seem to run right again.
I also think your mechanic has given you a 'worse case' scenario. It would be unlikely all those hoses have failed. Why don't you see if you can locate the leak yourself.
Take the plastic belly pan off under the engine and unclip the engine cover on the top. Get a torch, start the engine and while at idle, trace out all the water hoses, some at the top and some under. Check for drips on the ground under the engine, that should at least indicate left or right, front or back to help locate the problem. After a couple of minutes the hoses will get warm. Give them a squeeze, you might locate some bubbling. Remember the fan will start spinning, keep your fingers away, and after a few minutes the exhaust will be hot. If its a split hose, they are relatively easy to replace without much mechanical aptitude and the retailers that support these sites, (ECS, Europaparts etc) have great on-line pictures and descriptions to buy the part yourself.
I also think your mechanic has given you a 'worse case' scenario. It would be unlikely all those hoses have failed. Why don't you see if you can locate the leak yourself.
Take the plastic belly pan off under the engine and unclip the engine cover on the top. Get a torch, start the engine and while at idle, trace out all the water hoses, some at the top and some under. Check for drips on the ground under the engine, that should at least indicate left or right, front or back to help locate the problem. After a couple of minutes the hoses will get warm. Give them a squeeze, you might locate some bubbling. Remember the fan will start spinning, keep your fingers away, and after a few minutes the exhaust will be hot. If its a split hose, they are relatively easy to replace without much mechanical aptitude and the retailers that support these sites, (ECS, Europaparts etc) have great on-line pictures and descriptions to buy the part yourself.
01-15-2015, 08:41 PM
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From what I expierienced with my former 2006 Audi A4, what was causing my coolant leak was a bad coolant flange, which is located in the back of the engine. It costed me about 400-600 dollars to fix, depending on whether you go to the dealer or a private mechanic.
01-19-2015, 05:57 PM
#5
Don't give up so easy!
Open the bonnet, you can do it.
You need a torch and some gardening gloves or similar thick work gloves so you don't get your fingers burnt and a rag.
Pop the plastic engine cover off. this just allows you to see more.
Have a look for any water drops.
If you see water, grab a rag and dry it off.
Then, start the engine, grab a torch and just let the engine idle and look for any water drips.
Shine the torch on the black hoses, just follow them from end to end.
Look under the car for any drops to hint front or back, left or right side.
From cold, the engine will take 5-10 minutes to come up to temperature at idle depending on ambient air temperatures, just keep looking. As the engine gets hotter, the hoses will get softer, particularly if there is a split in the hose, it will start to drip and sometimes steam up like a little kettle. If you are refilling the coolant as much as you say, the leak should be apparent.
The best case, you see some water dripping out of one of the black hoses. Particularly look at where the hoses join with clamps, or the bends. Also check the coolant expansion tank you have been refilling, these can sometimes crack.
If you see some water drips, with your glove on (in case the hose is hot), give the hose a wiggle and a squeeze to confirm where the leak is or at least which hose it is.
If you cannot find any leaks at all, on the back side of the coolant expansion tank is a small black hose that drains down, and open at the end. This is the hose that lets the boiling water drain away when you have been refilling the water when its hot. Find the end and check it when the engine has reached operating temperature (and above!). If the drain is dripping, you just need a new blue coolant cap. ($20)
If you can locate the leak yourself, you can take the car to any mechanic (not just the dealer) and show them where the leak is. This will save your student bank account heaps, the mechanic is happy because you identified the leak saving him the time to do just what you have done, he just buys and installs a new hose.
Worst case, this costs you $0 and you have eliminated any obvious issues.
If you go with a dealer service, ask for a quote first. You may be shocked at what they charge.
Open the bonnet, you can do it.
You need a torch and some gardening gloves or similar thick work gloves so you don't get your fingers burnt and a rag.
Pop the plastic engine cover off. this just allows you to see more.
Have a look for any water drops.
If you see water, grab a rag and dry it off.
Then, start the engine, grab a torch and just let the engine idle and look for any water drips.
Shine the torch on the black hoses, just follow them from end to end.
Look under the car for any drops to hint front or back, left or right side.
From cold, the engine will take 5-10 minutes to come up to temperature at idle depending on ambient air temperatures, just keep looking. As the engine gets hotter, the hoses will get softer, particularly if there is a split in the hose, it will start to drip and sometimes steam up like a little kettle. If you are refilling the coolant as much as you say, the leak should be apparent.
The best case, you see some water dripping out of one of the black hoses. Particularly look at where the hoses join with clamps, or the bends. Also check the coolant expansion tank you have been refilling, these can sometimes crack.
If you see some water drips, with your glove on (in case the hose is hot), give the hose a wiggle and a squeeze to confirm where the leak is or at least which hose it is.
If you cannot find any leaks at all, on the back side of the coolant expansion tank is a small black hose that drains down, and open at the end. This is the hose that lets the boiling water drain away when you have been refilling the water when its hot. Find the end and check it when the engine has reached operating temperature (and above!). If the drain is dripping, you just need a new blue coolant cap. ($20)
If you can locate the leak yourself, you can take the car to any mechanic (not just the dealer) and show them where the leak is. This will save your student bank account heaps, the mechanic is happy because you identified the leak saving him the time to do just what you have done, he just buys and installs a new hose.
Worst case, this costs you $0 and you have eliminated any obvious issues.
If you go with a dealer service, ask for a quote first. You may be shocked at what they charge.
01-27-2015, 05:22 AM
#6
Seriously, you are missing a lot of fun. Get your hands dirty before letting that mechanic pick your pocket. There are two ways the engine looses coolant: leaking out of the engine or leaking into the engine.
If you can confirm that it's leaking out, then your wallet won't leak as much, because 1) it probably is not leaking into the engine. 2) you might be able to fix it yourself.
If you can confirm that it's leaking out, then your wallet won't leak as much, because 1) it probably is not leaking into the engine. 2) you might be able to fix it yourself.
01-27-2015, 07:51 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Don't give up so easy!
Open the bonnet, you can do it.
You need a torch and some gardening gloves or similar thick work gloves so you don't get your fingers burnt and a rag.
Pop the plastic engine cover off. this just allows you to see more.
Have a look for any water drops.
If you see water, grab a rag and dry it off.
Then, start the engine, grab a torch and just let the engine idle and look for any water drips.
Shine the torch on the black hoses, just follow them from end to end.
Look under the car for any drops to hint front or back, left or right side.
From cold, the engine will take 5-10 minutes to come up to temperature at idle depending on ambient air temperatures, just keep looking. As the engine gets hotter, the hoses will get softer, particularly if there is a split in the hose, it will start to drip and sometimes steam up like a little kettle. If you are refilling the coolant as much as you say, the leak should be apparent.
The best case, you see some water dripping out of one of the black hoses. Particularly look at where the hoses join with clamps, or the bends. Also check the coolant expansion tank you have been refilling, these can sometimes crack.
If you see some water drips, with your glove on (in case the hose is hot), give the hose a wiggle and a squeeze to confirm where the leak is or at least which hose it is.
If you cannot find any leaks at all, on the back side of the coolant expansion tank is a small black hose that drains down, and open at the end. This is the hose that lets the boiling water drain away when you have been refilling the water when its hot. Find the end and check it when the engine has reached operating temperature (and above!). If the drain is dripping, you just need a new blue coolant cap. ($20)
If you can locate the leak yourself, you can take the car to any mechanic (not just the dealer) and show them where the leak is. This will save your student bank account heaps, the mechanic is happy because you identified the leak saving him the time to do just what you have done, he just buys and installs a new hose.
Worst case, this costs you $0 and you have eliminated any obvious issues.
If you go with a dealer service, ask for a quote first. You may be shocked at what they charge.
Open the bonnet, you can do it.
You need a torch and some gardening gloves or similar thick work gloves so you don't get your fingers burnt and a rag.
Pop the plastic engine cover off. this just allows you to see more.
Have a look for any water drops.
If you see water, grab a rag and dry it off.
Then, start the engine, grab a torch and just let the engine idle and look for any water drips.
Shine the torch on the black hoses, just follow them from end to end.
Look under the car for any drops to hint front or back, left or right side.
From cold, the engine will take 5-10 minutes to come up to temperature at idle depending on ambient air temperatures, just keep looking. As the engine gets hotter, the hoses will get softer, particularly if there is a split in the hose, it will start to drip and sometimes steam up like a little kettle. If you are refilling the coolant as much as you say, the leak should be apparent.
The best case, you see some water dripping out of one of the black hoses. Particularly look at where the hoses join with clamps, or the bends. Also check the coolant expansion tank you have been refilling, these can sometimes crack.
If you see some water drips, with your glove on (in case the hose is hot), give the hose a wiggle and a squeeze to confirm where the leak is or at least which hose it is.
If you cannot find any leaks at all, on the back side of the coolant expansion tank is a small black hose that drains down, and open at the end. This is the hose that lets the boiling water drain away when you have been refilling the water when its hot. Find the end and check it when the engine has reached operating temperature (and above!). If the drain is dripping, you just need a new blue coolant cap. ($20)
If you can locate the leak yourself, you can take the car to any mechanic (not just the dealer) and show them where the leak is. This will save your student bank account heaps, the mechanic is happy because you identified the leak saving him the time to do just what you have done, he just buys and installs a new hose.
Worst case, this costs you $0 and you have eliminated any obvious issues.
If you go with a dealer service, ask for a quote first. You may be shocked at what they charge.
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Paul Flores (02-18-2020)
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01-28-2015, 06:30 PM
#8
hmm, the subtle differences in the english language from down under!
In Australia:
a torch is a flashlight, not an open flame!
we use spanners to repair cars, plumbers use wrenches on pipes
we use petrol not gas, here gas = LPG
and men wear thongs, ...........you call them flip flops, and Kiwi's call them jandals.
I could go on, but needles to say I meant a flashlight.
In Australia:
a torch is a flashlight, not an open flame!
we use spanners to repair cars, plumbers use wrenches on pipes
we use petrol not gas, here gas = LPG
and men wear thongs, ...........you call them flip flops, and Kiwi's call them jandals.
I could go on, but needles to say I meant a flashlight.
01-29-2015, 06:01 AM
#9
AudiWorld Member
hmm, the subtle differences in the english language from down under!
In Australia:
a torch is a flashlight, not an open flame!
we use spanners to repair cars, plumbers use wrenches on pipes
we use petrol not gas, here gas = LPG
and men wear thongs, ...........you call them flip flops, and Kiwi's call them jandals.
I could go on, but needles to say I meant a flashlight.
In Australia:
a torch is a flashlight, not an open flame!
we use spanners to repair cars, plumbers use wrenches on pipes
we use petrol not gas, here gas = LPG
and men wear thongs, ...........you call them flip flops, and Kiwi's call them jandals.
I could go on, but needles to say I meant a flashlight.
02-05-2015, 09:05 AM
#10
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OP, I think you already know the answer to your question if coolant runs totally out of your block and what happens when fully warmed up.
You made no mention of any driveability issues or bad exhaust so I don't think it's anything mechanical. As for your mechanic giving you all those repairs and not one definitive idea(at the least) for the a coolant leak that fast...he's an *******, I don't care if he's your grandpa.
Seems like you don't even have the ability to put your car on some jacks and take a look yourself. Hopefully you've looked under the hood at least.
Do you see any puddles of any sorts on the ground? If so what area and try parking in the same exact position for a few days. Take a look around the engine bay. Do you see any pink/purple fluid standing around - may be good to use the flashlight. Do you see white/pink crusty buildup or splash marks(more white than pink) in the bay? If so take a pic/vid and post here.
A loss of coolant that fast should scream out where it's coming from!
Turbo coolant line(not likely)
Coolant flange(he called this one of the "heater hoses) behind and between the engine itself and the transmission(very likely)
Thermostat(possible)
head gasket(highly unlikely since your still driving and not noticing white plumes)
Radiator hoses, front driver's side quadrant of the engine where most of the open space is. The Thermostat is in that area as well. (possible)
If you see the build up or pink/purple looking liquid elsewhere take a picture.
Google those parts above with a "B7 A4" behind them and look at the images to orient yourself and get back to us.
That mechanic is a ********. They may be something to maintain, but all of them together isn't causing a massive coolant leak draining in two days. He's upselling.
You made no mention of any driveability issues or bad exhaust so I don't think it's anything mechanical. As for your mechanic giving you all those repairs and not one definitive idea(at the least) for the a coolant leak that fast...he's an *******, I don't care if he's your grandpa.
Seems like you don't even have the ability to put your car on some jacks and take a look yourself. Hopefully you've looked under the hood at least.
Do you see any puddles of any sorts on the ground? If so what area and try parking in the same exact position for a few days. Take a look around the engine bay. Do you see any pink/purple fluid standing around - may be good to use the flashlight. Do you see white/pink crusty buildup or splash marks(more white than pink) in the bay? If so take a pic/vid and post here.
A loss of coolant that fast should scream out where it's coming from!
Turbo coolant line(not likely)
Coolant flange(he called this one of the "heater hoses) behind and between the engine itself and the transmission(very likely)
Thermostat(possible)
head gasket(highly unlikely since your still driving and not noticing white plumes)
Radiator hoses, front driver's side quadrant of the engine where most of the open space is. The Thermostat is in that area as well. (possible)
If you see the build up or pink/purple looking liquid elsewhere take a picture.
Google those parts above with a "B7 A4" behind them and look at the images to orient yourself and get back to us.
That mechanic is a ********. They may be something to maintain, but all of them together isn't causing a massive coolant leak draining in two days. He's upselling.
Last edited by Dolamite; 02-05-2015 at 09:07 AM.