motor locked up cold after cold start.
02-19-2015, 02:50 PM
#21
Probably did what seems to be somewhat and scarily common with this engine, the chain tensioner broke, which killed the chain, which stopped the intake cam and thus the fuel pump. My car is currently awaiting a cam chain tensioner/chain/etc at my local shop.
By the way, a grand just to look at the car and see what's wrong? that's highway robbery.. Dealers are such a pain in the butt.
By the way, a grand just to look at the car and see what's wrong? that's highway robbery.. Dealers are such a pain in the butt.
02-19-2015, 11:31 PM
#24
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Thanks for your response. The car was running very smooth up until the last day where the idling was loud...and I just attributed it to the extreme cold..
Also discovered that my car was under a warranty extension for the cam shaft, cam sensors as well has the high pressure fuel pump. So I asked the dealer if the diagnosis would/could be covered under that and after some back and forth he did some more tests and here's what I got on e-mail:
"The technician went forwards with a little more checking and found that the camshaft is in good condition but is not turning. This indicates an issue with the camshaft timing chains or sprockets which is not covered under the warranty. Also, the technician performed a compression test and found that the vehicle does not have compression which could indicate that the valve train has made impact with the pistons. This is an interference engine and for this to happen would cause a need to replace the cylinder head. I am having the technician write an estimate for parts cost of a cylinder head now and I will relay that as soon as it is ready. The failure of the camshaft to turn is a symptom of a failure as far as we can perceive before tear down." dealer has given me a revised estimate of $1k for teardown and is working on estimate for cylinder head replacement.
The second part sounds like real bad news for my car and I'm even more concerned how that could happen without some early warning symptoms. The only trouble I've had so far with this car is when...my CEL light came on a year ago for random misfires, took it to an audi dealer (a diff one than this) and they attributed it to a valve cover leak, and put in new one along with new plugs and coils.
Thoughts / tips anybody?
Also discovered that my car was under a warranty extension for the cam shaft, cam sensors as well has the high pressure fuel pump. So I asked the dealer if the diagnosis would/could be covered under that and after some back and forth he did some more tests and here's what I got on e-mail:
"The technician went forwards with a little more checking and found that the camshaft is in good condition but is not turning. This indicates an issue with the camshaft timing chains or sprockets which is not covered under the warranty. Also, the technician performed a compression test and found that the vehicle does not have compression which could indicate that the valve train has made impact with the pistons. This is an interference engine and for this to happen would cause a need to replace the cylinder head. I am having the technician write an estimate for parts cost of a cylinder head now and I will relay that as soon as it is ready. The failure of the camshaft to turn is a symptom of a failure as far as we can perceive before tear down." dealer has given me a revised estimate of $1k for teardown and is working on estimate for cylinder head replacement.
The second part sounds like real bad news for my car and I'm even more concerned how that could happen without some early warning symptoms. The only trouble I've had so far with this car is when...my CEL light came on a year ago for random misfires, took it to an audi dealer (a diff one than this) and they attributed it to a valve cover leak, and put in new one along with new plugs and coils.
Thoughts / tips anybody?
I'm curious as to why you'd need a new head instead of just the possible bent valves especially if it was at idle.
I'm not sure how far and even if they've opened her up. It isn't too late, once you get the quote, to visit the best independent Audi/VW shop and compare estimates. If you do go that route it will be less expensive and you'll have to tow the vehicle. Don't feel bad about taking the estimate and going elsewhere; it's your money.
You'll have to weigh the pricing, warranty on the work etc. Keep trying to see if Audi will give you any assistance.
The work on the valve cover and misfire - don't dwell on it.
Feel for you man. Keep us posted.
02-20-2015, 02:24 PM
#25
Yeah, but 12 hours? That's more than book time for a heater core. My shop just did my cam chain, and some other things, and it was like 6 hours, maybe less. Granted, they are very good, and not a dealer, so maybe dealers are just slow. =)
02-24-2015, 10:01 AM
#26
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Dealers are by the book. Audi is very systematic about things for many reasons.
02-24-2015, 11:35 AM
#28
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I would hope you know that shops charge what book time is not what ever it happened to take them to do it. Thats very fair to the consumer and fair to the repair shop. You are charged 5 hours for something weather it took us 10 or 2. So because I can do in in 2 hours instead of 5, I should be punished and you get the save money. How does that work. I dont understand how people complain like they are being ripped off when the numbers are there to protect them from being overcharged. With added up labor times for removing the chains to replace camshaft is real close to 10 hours plus they charged for diagnosing. Nice of your shop to cut their own profits for their talent but I sure wont.
Last edited by Prospeeder; 02-24-2015 at 11:38 AM.
02-24-2015, 11:49 AM
#29
My shop does not charge book time. They charge what it takes.
My initial comment was related to the dealer wanting 12 hours to DIAGNOSE the problem, not even for the repair. And was specifically related to removing the back cover to see what was going on.
My initial comment was related to the dealer wanting 12 hours to DIAGNOSE the problem, not even for the repair. And was specifically related to removing the back cover to see what was going on.
02-24-2015, 03:05 PM
#30
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I am sorry for not looking back here. never got a e mail ether say someone left a message on here. The intake sprocket in part of the intake cam you cant just replace the sprocket. if you look at my pics you can see the filings where the cam stopped and the sprocket wanted to still turn . I had to replace the cam because of it. I am back together new cam,fuel pump cup,gaskets. i changed the oil to 0-40 mobile i will run it for 500 miles if it makes it and change it again. when I started it tonight I had a light lifter tick for about about 20 seconds then it went away. I think if it wasn't so cold out it would be fine but its -4 deg in the mornings here and I might just not start it till I get a block heater or oil pan heater. My head should have been replaced but I cleaned it up. Time to trade it in.
Last edited by John McNeilly; 02-24-2015 at 03:11 PM.