2009 - B8 air filter location
03-14-2010, 04:39 PM
#1
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2009 - B8 air filter location
Where is the air filter on the B8 engine? I just had my oil changed and need to change the oil filter... I work in a dusty environment and it's probably dirty now.
Also. I was thinking of just going with the $20 Bosch from Autozone.. it's a throwaway. versus putting in the replaceble K&N.
What do you guys recommend?
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Also. I was thinking of just going with the $20 Bosch from Autozone.. it's a throwaway. versus putting in the replaceble K&N.
What do you guys recommend?
ports
03-14-2010, 05:57 PM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
APR posted a pic with the hood up...
http://www.goapr.com/images/b8a4_dyno.jpg
Passenger side -- right above the grille is the air intake -- follow the plumbing back and a bit outboard and that black box is the airbox. There are several torx screws that need to come out to take the top of the airbox off and the filter is right there.
http://www.goapr.com/images/b8a4_dyno.jpg
Passenger side -- right above the grille is the air intake -- follow the plumbing back and a bit outboard and that black box is the airbox. There are several torx screws that need to come out to take the top of the airbox off and the filter is right there.
03-14-2010, 09:32 PM
#4
I am not so sure the K&N filter is the best solution for a car that is operated in severe heavy duty circumstances. I agree they are fine in competition where they are expected to survive for only a few hours.
In a daily driver with a MAF sensor there is a disadvantage. Oil impregnated air filter media is a tried and tested technology that is good at trapping dirt particles from the air with minimal drag in the flow. The problem with K&N is that most people over oil the media and the oil collects on the sensitive MAF sensor and interferes with the injection map. A MAF sensor is usually a thermocouple that has a current passed through the junction heating it up. The intake air passing over the thermocouple cools the device. The engine computer reads the temperature change, and using math computes the amount of air flowing into the intake. Oil on the sensor gives false readings and this can lead to destruction of the cats and cause fatal injury to the MAF sensor. My experience is that even with "factory" oiled K&N filters they contribute just plain dirt in the intake. You can feel it running your finger inside the intake beyond the filter. It should be as clean as the dishes on your kitchen table. I can't imagine this unfiltered dirt is helpful on the turbo compressor blades either. I first became aware of this when Blackstone labs alerted me of increased Si (silicon) in my engine oil.
During the warranty period I would not use anything other than an OEM filter.
In a daily driver with a MAF sensor there is a disadvantage. Oil impregnated air filter media is a tried and tested technology that is good at trapping dirt particles from the air with minimal drag in the flow. The problem with K&N is that most people over oil the media and the oil collects on the sensitive MAF sensor and interferes with the injection map. A MAF sensor is usually a thermocouple that has a current passed through the junction heating it up. The intake air passing over the thermocouple cools the device. The engine computer reads the temperature change, and using math computes the amount of air flowing into the intake. Oil on the sensor gives false readings and this can lead to destruction of the cats and cause fatal injury to the MAF sensor. My experience is that even with "factory" oiled K&N filters they contribute just plain dirt in the intake. You can feel it running your finger inside the intake beyond the filter. It should be as clean as the dishes on your kitchen table. I can't imagine this unfiltered dirt is helpful on the turbo compressor blades either. I first became aware of this when Blackstone labs alerted me of increased Si (silicon) in my engine oil.
During the warranty period I would not use anything other than an OEM filter.
03-14-2010, 11:47 PM
#5
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i'm assuming you mean air filter since in the title its air filter, and its oil filter in the body.
i don't remember exactly where it is, but its pretty obvious. you could try your manual too.
i don't remember exactly where it is, but its pretty obvious. you could try your manual too.
03-15-2010, 04:31 AM
#6
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
APR posted a pic with the hood up...
http://www.goapr.com/images/b8a4_dyno.jpg
Passenger side -- right above the grille is the air intake -- follow the plumbing back and a bit outboard and that black box is the airbox. There are several torx screws that need to come out to take the top of the airbox off and the filter is right there.
http://www.goapr.com/images/b8a4_dyno.jpg
Passenger side -- right above the grille is the air intake -- follow the plumbing back and a bit outboard and that black box is the airbox. There are several torx screws that need to come out to take the top of the airbox off and the filter is right there.
Everyone else, if you can't answer the original question... why do you even bother responding? You're just posting to waste everyone's time.
03-18-2010, 07:27 AM
#7
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Thought I'd add my 2 cents based on some experience, if you guys don't mind...
I've been a user of high-flow, oiled foam air filters for years. That is, until a few years ago. What Moviela<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_23942171", true); </SCRIPT> stated is absolutely true. I've replaced so many 1.8T MAFS units over the past 12 yrs it would make your head spin. With some, I was able to clean them with electronics spray and they lasted another 6 mnths or so. However, in every single case of failure I found an oiled foam air filter installed on the vehicle. Granted, VAG had a few yrs of cars assembled with faulty MAFS units that failed prematurely. However, that aside, I didn't see abnormally high failures on vehicles with stock paper filters installed. Unless your ride is setup for a racing application (i.e. Stage 2-3 with larger capacity turbo), I'd recommend staying away from the oiled foam filters. The newer paper filters are designed to pass more air, more efficiently than ever before. They have deep, wide pleats that create a tremendous amount of surface area for filtering. If you keep an eye on it, and change it often if in extremely dusty conditions, it will perform just as well as the foam type. And, as an added bonus, it won't contribute to premature MAFS failure.
I've been a user of high-flow, oiled foam air filters for years. That is, until a few years ago. What Moviela<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_23942171", true); </SCRIPT> stated is absolutely true. I've replaced so many 1.8T MAFS units over the past 12 yrs it would make your head spin. With some, I was able to clean them with electronics spray and they lasted another 6 mnths or so. However, in every single case of failure I found an oiled foam air filter installed on the vehicle. Granted, VAG had a few yrs of cars assembled with faulty MAFS units that failed prematurely. However, that aside, I didn't see abnormally high failures on vehicles with stock paper filters installed. Unless your ride is setup for a racing application (i.e. Stage 2-3 with larger capacity turbo), I'd recommend staying away from the oiled foam filters. The newer paper filters are designed to pass more air, more efficiently than ever before. They have deep, wide pleats that create a tremendous amount of surface area for filtering. If you keep an eye on it, and change it often if in extremely dusty conditions, it will perform just as well as the foam type. And, as an added bonus, it won't contribute to premature MAFS failure.
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03-19-2010, 12:57 PM
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I would consult your owner's manual, or at least a Haynes/Chilton, as it really depends on driving conditions. I live in a region that has what I would consider average dust conditions, and I change my engine air filter every 20k mls or so. Depends on what it looks like, as I inspect and tap out every oil change (5k, standard synthetic interval).
As for the cabin filter, I believe Audi recommends every 15k. However, this is also an as-needed item. I find 15-20k is about it for any cabin filter, as they collect loads of larger debris (bugs, leaf particles, the "Wtf is that?... Really, what IS that?!" items, etc).
As for the cabin filter, I believe Audi recommends every 15k. However, this is also an as-needed item. I find 15-20k is about it for any cabin filter, as they collect loads of larger debris (bugs, leaf particles, the "Wtf is that?... Really, what IS that?!" items, etc).
03-20-2010, 01:29 PM
#10
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Yeah.. On my BMW it was a 15k oil change interval. I did the oil filter, engine air filter, and cabin air filter at every 15k. Usually the cabin air filter was pretty clean. But $30-40 for 2 air filters, and at least 6-12 months of usage...it's worth it. Not to mention getting rid of that "Was I really breathing that..?" feeling.
I was just looking at the air filter housing on my B8. I picked up a paper STP from Autozone. I see 6 screws holding the box together, and it looks like I will need to undo the hose clamp on the engine air hose...is that correct? It's always been 4-6 clips on my previous cars.
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I was just looking at the air filter housing on my B8. I picked up a paper STP from Autozone. I see 6 screws holding the box together, and it looks like I will need to undo the hose clamp on the engine air hose...is that correct? It's always been 4-6 clips on my previous cars.
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