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UK: Audi a4 b8.5 diesel w/low oil pressure

Old 08-28-2016, 04:06 AM
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Default UK: Audi a4 b8.5 diesel w/low oil pressure

Hi i have a 2013 audi a4 b8.5 2.0tdi CjCA engine code. I have a low oil pressure issue. I have just replaced hex key and balance shaft this week and new oil pressure sensor but i still have the problem. The problem only seems to happen when engine gets hot and im either slowin down or at lights. I get a low oil pressure message on display. I should of replaced oil pump when i had everythink off. Done a bit off research and a few people have said they have had problems with the pressure release valve in oil pump. The engine sounds normal no rattles or knocks coming from it. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you
Old 04-10-2017, 10:27 AM
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I have the same engine and I also did change the pressure sensor and the oil pump, the hex was modified to 8mm but the problem persist.
I've made a second intervention and change all the main and rod bearing. Nothing changed in oil pressure. Still "low pressure" alarm and 0.5 bar on hot idle measured with V.A.G 1342 oil pressure tester.
Did you solve your problem? Thanks.
PS. our pumps have 2 valves, one is pressure release valve and another one I think is volume control valve.
Old 04-22-2017, 08:51 AM
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Hey i had the same issues and fixed it.. its the PCV valve diagphram.. you get a misfire and low oil pressure fault, i also replaced both oil pressure switch sensors. brown and blue... theres two.
Old 04-24-2017, 07:17 AM
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Hi, we don't have PCV on our TDI CR engine, it's a CCV but is closed so no pressure escape there. Also we have only one sensor on CJCA, green one, rated at 0,3 to 0,6 bar and I already change it.
Old 04-30-2017, 08:07 PM
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my mechanic friend said check

and your EGR valve
Old 02-23-2018, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by andliu
Hey i had the same issues and fixed it.. its the PCV valve diagphram.. you get a misfire and low oil pressure fault, i also replaced both oil pressure switch sensors. brown and blue... theres two.
Hey there. I was hoping if you can explain how you replaced the blue sensor. looks like a hassle to get to. would really appreciate any help.
Old 02-28-2018, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2010A4
Hey there. I was hoping if you can explain how you replaced the blue sensor. looks like a hassle to get to. would really appreciate any help.
hey I replaced it from the top, shoved my arm down got a few scratches. Unplugged the sensor wire. Positioned a long slim breaker bar on the sensor loosened it. Removed breaker bar, shoved arm back down and removed sensor / replace with new one. Used breaker bar to mildly tighten..... be super careful don’t want to over tight and strip. Done
Old 03-05-2018, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by andliu

hey I replaced it from the top, shoved my arm down got a few scratches. Unplugged the sensor wire. Positioned a long slim breaker bar on the sensor loosened it. Removed breaker bar, shoved arm back down and removed sensor / replace with new one. Used breaker bar to mildly tighten..... be super careful don’t want to over tight and strip. Done
I know this may sound dumb, and maybe I'm just not looking in the correct spot, but where is the blue sensor located at? I've already replaced the brown sensor but I cannot find the blue sensor on the car.
Old 06-26-2018, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by audiosMF
I know this may sound dumb, and maybe I'm just not looking in the correct spot, but where is the blue sensor located at? I've already replaced the brown sensor but I cannot find the blue sensor on the car.
It's very difficult to get to, I just did mine. It is beside the tensioner for the serpentine belt.

To change mine I put my car nearly into the service position. I loosened the bolts for the aluminum crash bar, but did not fully remove the bottom ones. I had to disconnect the small coolant line, but I didn't need to drain the coolant.
I then was able to pull the lock carrier back to gain access to the switch. I used a 24mm deep socket to remove it.

Anyways I then put an M10x1 pipe fitting in and connected a pressure gauge (with about 10ft of tubing) and measured the pressure vs RPM.

In my case it was not good.


There appeared to be a lag before the regulator would increase the output pressure. I would have to exceed 3650 RPM before it would achieve 3.5 bar.

I took about 3 sets of readings to prepare the below:RPMPressureSpec LowBarPass / Fail6502011.378951OK14002211.516847OK14052511.7236 89OK20002611.792637OK220026.511.827111OK22002711.8 61584OK23002811.930532OK295027.511.896058OK300027. 53.51.896058FAIL310027.53.51.896058FAIL3100273.51. 861584FAIL3200283.51.930532FAIL3400283.51.930532FA IL360030.53.52.102901FAIL3600313.52.137375FAIL3600 483.53.309483FAIL3650523.53.585274OK3700443.53.033 693FAIL3700523.53.585274OK3800373.52.55106FAIL3800 363.52.482113FAIL3800403.52.757903FAIL390042.53.52 .930272FAIL3900533.53.654221OK3950453.53.102641FAI L395046.53.53.206062FAIL3950483.53.309483FAIL39504 93.53.378431FAIL3950503.53.447379FAIL4000513.53.51 6326OK4000523.53.585274OK4000523.53.585274OK
Anyways good luck replacing the switch. I'm having this issue after a timing chain tensioner job.

Hopefully this helps...
Old 06-26-2018, 05:50 PM
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Hi Sorry for the double post. The oil pressure is nothing like the old 1.8TFSI Engine. Check out the self study program:

SSP_436

The oil pressure vs RPM can be found on page 29. The behaviour I was seeing was in spec.
I don't want to mislead you with my previous post, but I cannot figure out how to edit it.

We have self regulating oil pumps it looks like. Anyways check out the self study program for more info.

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