Mickelin

Finally got delivery of my JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3. It is a tiny box, takes up almost no trunk space, but the impact is amazing! The Bose now has a firm bottom end and sounds fantastic!

No drilling or electrical mods, the car can be returned to stock in 10 mins. Whether you add amp+sub like this or just replace the Bose sub with an OA like in the other thread, you should be pleased to know that fixing the Bose bass issue is a piece of cake!

As a bonus I include a pic of my iPad dashboard mount. I run TomTom nav on it, as well as emails, movies etc whilst stuck in traffic. It is connected to the MMI via Bluetooth and via WiFi to my hotspot in the trunk.

sgroer

Wow! That thing is small. I definitely wanted to stay away from a box when I did my OA setup, but I could probably be ok with a box that size.

rbats

Well, I'm going to go ahead on do this. Never done anything like that in a car before but after your and sgroer's instructions, I'm going to do this.

Quick question - how did you strap that sub down in the truck? Velcro??

As for the amp, did you or sgroer consider a powered sub for an all-in-one solution? I really like that sgroer's sub has no remote connection needed and powers on using the high-level signal. Do any other amps besides that Sony have the same "feature"?

Thanks for the detailed write up!

iaonbb

Just my $.02 for anyone interested. The Infiniti Basslink is an awesome all-in-one solution, gets rave reviews, has speaker level turn on and a remote to route up front since the Bose has no separate MMI control.

Check it:

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl.../dp/B000063TJY

rbats

One more question -- I assume you used the high level input on the JL 250 amp? If so, what wires on the supplied harness did you splice on to the ones coming out of the Bose (Brown/White and Brown/Blue)? Thanks!

Mickelin

Yes, for now I am using the high level inputs. The Brown/blue goes to both + inputs and the brown/white to both - inputs.


I first intended to get an all-in-one solution but couldn't find one that I liked in the right price/performance range. Having read a whole lot of reviews and forum posts, I concluded that the JL Audio was the best solution for me, based on sound, price, size and ease of installation.

My first plan was to use an AudioControl LC2i high-low converter. That has auto-on, provides a remote signal for the amp and has a level control for dashboard mount. I haven't found one in Sweden yet and the postage from the US is prohibitive, so I will stick to the high level inputs for now.

The remote wire is really a non-issue. Just connect it to an empty fuse holder and forget about it.

I haven't strapped down the box, it just lays in the trunk. It is heavy enough to stay put.

Good luck with your install!

rbats

Thanks for the answers! Parts are ordered and now awaiting shipment...

pat clark

OK guys, I'm in too. May I bother you gents for a parts list? I've got the amp and the enclosed woofer parts identified from JL. What are the recommended piece/parts to complete the install? I'm planning on the ATC tap a fuse and is there a wiring kit that you used? I'm wondering about the wire taps, crimp on o rings, wires, any screws/bolts that you'd recommend, sizes, etc.? What comes with and what do I need to source? I'd like to make sure I've got the "kit" put together before I start in and hope I'm not appearing lazy here. Per the thread it's the JL components replacing the bose sub in a Prestige.

Thanks in advance.

Mickelin

You need a wiring kit that matches the power of the amp you use. i used a kit called Audison Connection FSK350, suitable for amps up to 300w. In addition, you need two wire taps to tap into the sub cables, one add-a-circuit or home made fuse tap for the remote wire. A strap of some kind or heavy duty velcro to secure the amp. That's it!

pat clark

Thank you. Sounds easy (no pun). I'm starting to feel a little more bump in the music already!