sarahq1

Hi everyone-


I need some help! I have a 2014 A6 turbo and I'm having some difficulty with the rotors specifically. I had approximately $15,000 miles on my car the first time the rotors warped. I was told by Audi it's because someone was riding the brakes. I've never been a braker. The first time around I just had 2 rotors fixed. A month later it started again. Now I need the rotors fixed again.


Does someone know the root cause of this issue?
Can someone recommend a kit for rotors and should they be slotted and drilled with brakes?


Does anyone know if you have to replace both the brakes and rotors at the same time even if the brakes don't need to be replaced?


Concerned Audi A6 owner.

Vodka G

a few reasons:

1: was the rotor shaved or replaced? if it was replaced, was the brake pad replaced as well? I am thinking you need both pad and rotor replaced to fix the problem (due to bedding ?) but I caould be wrong

2. was the wheel lug bolt on correctly? correct torque and tightened in the correct order? incorrect wheel mounting is one of the cause of wrapped rotor

here is more info

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

sarahq1

Thank you very much for the feedback

sarahq1

My apologies. I forgot to mention the first time around the rotor was just replaced. When it started to warp we did try to shave it down. That fixed it for a little while but now I'm back at the place of figuring out the root cause again before replacing again.


Any ideas on brake/rotors kits to use. I did here slotted was better to keep the heat from warping the rotors. Thoughts

tenspeed

As you may have gathered for the "Warped rotors and other Myths page", rotors rarely actually warp. Most times it's an unequal distribution of pad materials on the rotor causing the pulsations of the brake pedal.

Check out this video about bedding in pads. Give it a try before replacing another set of rotors. It's long but it covers a lot of ground.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdPX6rzuINc

When it comes to plain, drilled and slotted rotors, they all pretty much perform the same for a street driving.
Plain rotors have the most thermal mass and should work the best.

Drilled rotors have holes and they are said to perform better in wet conditions. The down side is they sometimes have a tendency to develop cracks originating at the holes.

Slotted rotors came about during the era of pads that created gasses when hot. The slots provided a path for the gasses to escape.

For today's rotors and pads, drill holes, dimples and slots are more for looking pretty behind wheel spokes. I happen to have Adam's Rotors because they are high carbon for longer life and I got to choose the machined slot pattern.

sarahq1

Good feedback Tenspeed! Appreciate it!

Acuransx

Suggest you look at other threads on this board. This seems to be a very common problem that Audi will take care of under warranty typically without too much hassle if you are under 1 year old and 12,000 miles. After that you are pretty much on your own. I will refrain from expressing my views regarding Audi customer care here -- have done some in other threads.


Best,
Jeff

Nakedhoof

Cryogenically treated rotors will last longer. That is the only deviation from standard that is worth the extra cost, IMHO.

Fithian

My rotors and pads were replaced at 21k miles under warranty. The pads had 10/32 remaining, so it was not the fault of the driver. If one drives like a maniac or goes to a DE event, the pad material can be deposited on the rotors, so check that first. There are techniques for removing this.

sarahq1

@nakedhoof where do you get cryogenically treated rotors? Do I take my originals and get them treated if they are already warped? Or by new and have them treated? Any recommendations on what kind to get?