Factory Amp Upgrade
#22
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Getting to the wires
Next step is to get to the cables/wires and try to map the right cables to the right components.
1. Once the amp is removed the cables are exposed as they were running under the amp.
2. The cables are in a flat plastic box and can be easily opened.
3. The cables are divided into 3 categories:
- A set of twisted pairs
- A set of non twisted cables
- A set of cables that are non twisted but are taped together.
See pictures below.
Continued in the next post........
1. Once the amp is removed the cables are exposed as they were running under the amp.
2. The cables are in a flat plastic box and can be easily opened.
3. The cables are divided into 3 categories:
- A set of twisted pairs
- A set of non twisted cables
- A set of cables that are non twisted but are taped together.
See pictures below.
Continued in the next post........
#23
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#24
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Now the fun part starts where we need to identify the wires.
I have got notes started to capture the wires coming into the block that goes into the factory amp. We will be splicing into the wires going to the speakers and sub.
he factory amp output will go to the input of the JL HD900. Looks like I do not need the LC6i line output convertor as the HD/900 has a high voltage input selector to get the speaker level input (saved 120 bucks :-) ).
(WARNING: Your are about to be subject to my handwriting. Proceed with care :-) )......
In the hand drawn picture, there are 2 square blocks. This is the socket in the back of the factory amp and the plug (with wires) that goes into it. I have numbered each electrical contact point in the plug and captured the wire color that it is attached to. This will help in tracing the wires.
Continued in the next post.........
I have got notes started to capture the wires coming into the block that goes into the factory amp. We will be splicing into the wires going to the speakers and sub.
he factory amp output will go to the input of the JL HD900. Looks like I do not need the LC6i line output convertor as the HD/900 has a high voltage input selector to get the speaker level input (saved 120 bucks :-) ).
(WARNING: Your are about to be subject to my handwriting. Proceed with care :-) )......
In the hand drawn picture, there are 2 square blocks. This is the socket in the back of the factory amp and the plug (with wires) that goes into it. I have numbered each electrical contact point in the plug and captured the wire color that it is attached to. This will help in tracing the wires.
Continued in the next post.........
#25
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SUB wires
The wires that go to the sub are blue/Brown and Blue. These are connected to the pin 13 and pin 9 on the plug that goes into the factory amp. (see hand written notes in prior post).
The 41 is ground and 42 is power.
See photos for wires connecting to the Sub.
Continued in the next post......
The 41 is ground and 42 is power.
See photos for wires connecting to the Sub.
Continued in the next post......
#26
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Picture of the factory amp.
Oh, and if you are curious, the attached picture is for the factory amp which depicts the part number and names. A clearer picture of the other side with various connections is also attached
#27
#28
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Actually, this is the "ONLY" amp. It drives the sub and the speakers. It also has the antenna connections for the radio and the Sirus. I looked up the part number looks like Audi sells it for a couple of grands :-).....
#29
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So basically you can swap out the new amp with the old, power existing factory speakers and a new sub using all existing wiring tucking it all back in the convienant cubby
#30
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1. You will need an adapter to get from the input from the head unit to the RCA that your amp will accept. The input from the headunit it comes to the black plug on the left bottom of the unit. It seems some kind of optical plug
2. There are additional plugs for sat radio and regular radio. There may be output for other stuff in the car other than speakers as well.
I will update with viability soon