LeadingEdge

Got my 2016 A6 last May, has 11k miles now. I started getting brake vibrations, and it got bad enough I took it to the dealer today. They say front and rear rotors are corroded and "scored" but that the pads are fine. The kicker: they also say this isn't covered under warranty because this was caused by corrosion which is excluded from the warranty, and it's $1200 to replace the rotors. I do live in an area that uses lots of salt in the winter, although this winter was mild and we had less salt on the roads than usual. But I had a 2004 A4 for 12 years here with no problems of rotors going bad so quickly. Is it suspicious to anyone that they would corrode so quickly? Does that indicate some defect, or just bad luck?

I called Audi of America to see if they could do anything, and I'm waiting to hear back. If I lose this battle, I'll take it to an indy mechanic. But I'll be disappointed if in the end the dealer (whom I bought the car from) or AoA don't step up when the car is so new. This dealer has generally been good to deal with, but they haven't offered anything yet except to apply a 15% off coupon.

DanfZX14

That's friggin ridiculous!!! I would get a second opinion from an indy mechanic you trust.


To give you an idea on the dealer mark up I got pricing for the 15k servicing on my car this week. My trusted indy mechanic that specializes in imports and I've been going to for 30 plus years is $245. Local Audi dealership $585. My indy mechanic will perform and document the factory specified 15k servicing so as to not void the warranty, which is actually an oil change and a cabin air filter change with a bunch of things to check. I will probably do the cabin filter myself for $16 instead of paying $44 from the garage.


Please update this thread and let us know what your final outcome is. I hope it works out and Audi steps up for you.

Silver42

Not sure a vibration would be caused by corrosion or scoring - I thought that warping would be more a cause of what you are describing. I am not a brake expert, but cleaning the wheels and getting harsh chems on the rotors? maybe? I would be more inclined to think that you are getting a warpage on the disc due to something else like lug-bolts not torqued down correctly.

sounds odd though. I have a 2012 prestige 3.0 that just got new brakes at 50K. the originals lasted till then.

tenspeed

Don't replace the rotors just yet. Take the car to a independent shop and have them clean the rotor surface. Have them check the rotors for the corrosion and scoring. Take the car out and perform the bedding in process. I suspect the vibration is from a unequal distribution of material on the rotors.

Read about it on this link:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

thedjm

I have the exactly same problem with my bought-new 2014 A6. The problem started around 10K, but when I finally brought it in at 15k (for the service), they said "sorry you missed the 12K warranty period! ***** Pay us $1200.". This is Audi Palo Alto in California.

Audi USA isn't being much help either.

Audi sells lemons I guess and sticks its customers with the bill.

I'll be looking at other vehicles next time around.

snagitseven

You don't show what model, year or your location in your sig or avatar. Did you buy the car new or used? Also, curious why you waited 5K miles to have it checked out.

Read the previous post by tenspeed - it may be nothing more than some deposits on the rotors that can be removed. Finally. if te rotors are indeed beyond repair, you can look for aftermarket rotors and pads that would cost less with better performance than OEM.

Calimus

Exactly. Just one example, from ECS Tuning, you can get OEM level rotors for $130 for the front.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C7_A6...ors/ES2823233/

$64 for the rears
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C7_A6...ors/ES2747912/

And $200 for a full set of Ceramic pads
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C7_A6...ads/ES2992552/

Which will provide better stopping power and far less brake dust than the OEM pads.

You can change the rotors and pads on the front of the car with basic hand tools by yoursel fin less than 1.5 hours.

The rears won't take any longer really, but you would need a Vag-Com to deal with the electronic E-brake properly. Not using the Vag-Com could result in killing the stepper motors in the rear calipers and if I recall, they aren't super cheap to replace.

thedjm

I"m a busy enough person that I don't look forward to an extra visit to the dealership. The vibration was minor enough that it wasn't a major concern and since the 15K was coming up anyway, I thought I'd bring it in then to save us all time and hassle. Little did I know how they'd take advantage of that.

If Audi doesn't deal with this I'm certainly not giving them the business. If anyone knows of a decent shop in the Palo Alto, CA area that works on later model Audis, please advise.

Barrels41

The pad use should remove corrosion. Do you drive on unpaved roads, sand, gravel? Coal mines? Inspect the rotors with an indy mechanic if you cannot jack it up and set it safely on jackstands to DIY. Might there be a problem in the anti-lock brake system? Do not use a dealer for non-warranty work. Unless you run a hedge fund.

2014a6tdi

I got the same word from Audi Palo Alto. They told me my brakes were "glazed" and deglazed them gratis (fronts). Started making noise on the rears and they said they were glazed too and were unwilling to do anything. Said I "overheated them" or "didn't use them enough". Replacement was the only suggestion because they "only" have 6mm left on them.

So (their professional opinion):
1) either I use my brakes too much or don't use them enough
2) At 6mm they recommend replacement

I did everything I could to get new brakes, free. Didn't happen and I'll be damned if I'm replacing brake pads with 6mm remaining. Thus, for now, I announce my arrival with a loud squeal at low brake pressure. Makes it easy for the kids and wife to know I'm home, so there's that.