IknowHuhA6

P2753 - Transmission Fluid Cooler Control Circuit/Open

Anyone had this code before that can provide insight? Would prefer to avoid taking car to dealer (expired warranty).

Took peek under car, didn't see any disconnected plugs or torn wires to warrant open circuit.



Thanks in advance.

IknowHuhA6

So I gave up and after not finding any info on this DTC. I even sought the help of a friend who is a 40 year certified master tech for insights. Neither of us found info. So my problem it seems is that very few people seem to work on their own Audi's and those that know do not post repair info. So let's start breaking that pattern...

I took car to Riverside Audi to pay for diagnosis and they gave me a printed parts list of items needed for this repair. My aftermarket warranty declined my claim because the Powertrain warranty only covers "internally lubricated parts", and this valve is mounted on driver side exterior of trans and not internal. I then found a local repair garage in Pomona and tried them out at half the cost of Audi's hourly rate. They got the job done in less time quoted by the dealer. Dealer quoted nearly $700 for labor and I ended up paying only $150 at local shop. Only problem was i had to make extra effort to get car rental on my own dime & time instead of getting free loaner car from dealer. We pay for luxury and convenience at dealer. Oh well.

Here's the required items by Dealer to fix this problem. So far my check engine light is gone and I'll re-post if I have any problems.

4H0-121-671-D (VALVE)
1J0-973-702 (HOUSING)
000-979-019-EA (WIRES)
000-979-940 (CONNECTOR)
G-013-A8J-1G (COOL. ADD.)

Parts cost me $294.75+ tax when purchased from dealer.

I bought extra coolant since it's not easily available at local auto part stores in an emergency.
I was weary of the need to replace wire and recommend this not be replaced but instead suggest the connector be cleaned with electronics cleaner unless there is damage to wire. The procedure requires cutting wire and splicing new wire and connector using overpriced $13.26 x2 connectors that can be bought at hardware store for .99 cents. In my opinion a spliced wire is subject to failure as opposed to a non spliced wire depending on who does the work. My 2 cents for what it's worth.

However if you trust the mechanic doing splcied wire work the extra 50-ish dollars for that repair portion mey be worth it. Personal preference.

tenspeed

Thanks for the detailed update. In years to come, it will be a valuable bit of knowledge for others to find. I tried looking for data on the P2753 code on three ODB sites and came up with nada.

If I was trying to solve the problem, I would try cleaning the electrical connection and sealing it with dielectric grease. I would also put a meter across the valve wires and check for continuity before buying parts.

I agree with you on the wire splices - don't do it unless there is damage. Salt and moisture can turn small wires to a green paste in a few years. The best stuff I have found for waterproofing is 3M Scotchfil electrical insulation putty. Wrap a layer around the joint and cover with electrical tape.

Product Catalog 3M? Scotchfil? Electrical Insulation Putty : Electrical Commercial and Industrial: 3M US

IknowHuhA6

Update.
So after speaking to my local mechanic and reviewing the dealer provided write-up; It appears the failure was actually a broken connector which is why it was suggested I redo wire and connector. FYI, the connector is referenced as (housing) on Audi parts list. The dealer also suggested to replace the valve so I did just thinking this was the primary problem. So if anyone has this code pop-up, have connector checked for cracks. = )

This valve is located on driver side inner fenderwell when looking upward into engine compartment. In photo you can see driver side exhaust towards back to give you frame of reference towards location. Connector is on very top, and the valve sits in a cylindrical bracket that secures it to side fenderwell.

jonathantam

Thanks for your unselfish sharing. I just got the same error code last week and my friend who is a mechanic also couldn't find any info on the web. Would you mind telling me what parts I actually need to buy for the fix? Do you mean 000-979-019-EA (WIRES) and 000-979-940 (CONNECTOR) are unnecessary unless they are damaged? What additional things did you do besides replacing the valve and housing to clear the error code? Thanks so much

2014a6tdi

Any comments on the suspected reason for the the failure? Was it stress/fatigue and needs some strain relief, melted ...?

I guess when I first saw your picture I saw it was quite close to the exhaust and I'm thinking heating/cooling cycles + some vibration, thus a stress fracture. Just curious. I suppose next time I have it jacked up I'll take a looksee to see if its the same on the TDI, I'd guess it would be.

IknowHuhA6

I listed the parts in a previous post as it read on the Audi printout I received. I don't know if the valve itself had failed but I know the connector was broken per the write-up. So to play it safe and not have to error come back and cause return visit the dealer suggested replacing the valve as well. So it's going to be either one or the other. Nothing else was changed and that fixed the problem.


No one stated the cause of failure but I agree on the exhaust being the possible casue. The connector is at very top of valve and close to the exhaust so the heat probably just finally caused the connector to brittle and crack causing the open circuit condition.

Sparta

I had the same code. Found this thread and brought it to the dealer.

Diagnosis was: tested voltage at valve. Found voltage to be ok. Valve failed and wiring damaged. Replaced valve and wiring.

Parts needed:
1 4HO-121-671-D Valve
2 000-979-940 Connector
1 8K0-973-702 Housing
1 000-979-025-EA wires

Car was just a few hundred miles past warranty so Audi picked up the repair cost. No hassle at all. Thank you Audi!

Kraskina

I have the same code . Went to the dealer and you not gonna believe how much they quote me 7500$ yes 7500$ . They claim that the fliud went from the valve thru the wires to the control module which is in the transmition , so the parts was 5400$ . Does anyone got something like that ?

2012 A6 3.0 prestige

Sparta

Yikes! Could be legit (that the control module went bad), but I would definitely bring it to another dealer for a 2nd opinion. If it is legit I would ask Audi if they would goodwill the repair. That is lot a money for a repair that others have paid in the $750-$850 range.