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pothole damage

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Old 02-04-2014, 05:03 PM   #1
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Default pothole damage

hit a weired pothole at an EZpass toll booth on I95 at 10mph. Before I hit it I thought I was slow enuf so I should be ok.

got something similar to this on the left front tire

Click the image to open in full size.

I have the 18inch OEM conti pro contact tire with 18k miles.


the rim might be slightly bent but I can't tell at least.

Time for a new set of tires? should I be concerned about the rim?

ps: my tire pressure was at 35f/32r as suggested by manual.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:06 PM   #2
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Have the tire shop take the tire off and run the rim on the balance machine. They can check the run out and advise.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:09 PM   #3
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The tire is probably gone - if it looks like the photo, the sidewall is deformed and will need to be replaced.
As to the rim, it's often difficult to tell by eye if it's bent. If placed on a Hunter Road Force Balencer, the operator should be able to tell if it's not true. If so, a wheel straightener specialist can get it back to round for about $125-$150. An out of round wheel (or tire) will cause vibrations at speed.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenspeed View Post
Have the tire shop take the tire off and run the rim on the balance machine. They can check the run out and advise.
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Originally Posted by snagitseven View Post
The tire is probably gone - if it looks like the photo, the sidewall is deformed and will need to be replaced.
As to the rim, it's often difficult to tell by eye if it's bent. If placed on a Hunter Road Force Balencer, the operator should be able to tell if it's not true. If so, a wheel straightener specialist can get it back to round for about $125-$150. An out of round wheel (or tire) will cause vibrations at speed.
Thank you. I found this installer in my area

http://www.tirerack.com/installer/In...=0&y=0&place=0

to have road force balancer.


I guess I'll just order the some ultra high performance all seasons and have the installer install them. I guess it is ok not to use Audi dealer for this?
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:16 PM   #5
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ps: my tire pressure was at 35f/32r as suggested by manual.
That pressure is wrong. The placard on my door jamb says 38F/41R for the stock 18's. I just corrected them today before driving down to AC.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:24 PM   #6
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That pressure is wrong. The placard on my door jamb says 38F/41R for the stock 18's. I just corrected them today before driving down to AC.
That's what i put on my tires. I prefer to have higher pressure to prevent sh*t like this that may potentially happen to my car, especially in NJ.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
That pressure is wrong. The placard on my door jamb says 38F/41R for the stock 18's. I just corrected them today before driving down to AC.
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That's what i put on my tires. I prefer to have higher pressure to prevent sh*t like this that may potentially happen to my car, especially in NJ.

sigh.. lesson learned. Manual says 38F/41R is for under load condition. But if that deals with potholes better I am all for it.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:08 PM   #8
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sigh.. lesson learned. Manual says 38F/41R is for under load condition. But if that deals with potholes better I am all for it.
Actually the door sticker is for max load (driver, three passengers and luggage). The manual's PSI for normal load is for driver, and passenger. If you use the max load PSI, there will actually be less flex in the sidewalls to absorb potholes increasing the chance for damage. I usually go a lb or two above normal load as a compromise between ride and handling and reserve full load PSI for when going on a trip with a full trunk of luggage.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by snagitseven View Post
Actually the door sticker is for max load (driver, three passengers and luggage). The manual's PSI for normal load is for driver, and passenger. If you use the max load PSI, there will actually be less flex in the sidewalls to absorb potholes increasing the chance for damage. I usually go a lb or two above normal load as a compromise between ride and handling and reserve full load PSI for when going on a trip with a full trunk of luggage.
gotcha,

just placed an order on 4xconti DWS on tire rack shipped to the installer with the Hunter Road Force Balencer. http://www.tirerack.com/installer/In...=0&y=0&place=0

Hopefully everything is good soon.

ps: i like the DWS having road hazard warranty!
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:21 PM   #10
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Excellent choice. The DWS is a great UHP A/S tire. They have a slightly more compliant, softer sidewall than other UHP A/S tires which can help with those potholes. Just stay away from curbs.
Be sure to get that wheel straightened if it turns out to be bent.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by snagitseven View Post
Actually the door sticker is for max load (driver, three passengers and luggage). The manual's PSI for normal load is for driver, and passenger. If you use the max load PSI, there will actually be less flex in the sidewalls to absorb potholes increasing the chance for damage. I usually go a lb or two above normal load as a compromise between ride and handling and reserve full load PSI for when going on a trip with a full trunk of luggage.
I have a driver, 2 passengers and luggage. But considering that I'm 320lbs, may as well be 3 passengers.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:21 PM   #12
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I guess it is ok not to use Audi dealer for this?
The dealer (any dealer) would be the last place I would go to for non warranty tire & wheel work.
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:01 AM   #13
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The dealer (any dealer) would be the last place I would go to for non warranty tire & wheel work.
I think that would depend on the dealer. Mine uses the Hunter GSP9700 Road Force balancer, quality alignment equipment and has techs that really know what they're doing. They also have a wheel repair guy that comes by twice a week that does an excellent job. (They don't straighten wheels, however). Their prices are close to par in my area. By the same token, I've had some poor experiences with dedicated tire/wheel shops not doing a very good job. It's tough to generalize.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:28 AM   #14
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Their prices are close to par in my area. By the same token, I've had some poor experiences with dedicated tire/wheel shops not doing a very good job. It's tough to generalize.
Thanks for the update. I judge from what has been my limited experiences with dealerships. It seems like whenever I take in a car under warranty, the service representative looks at me like I'm growing a third eye and tells me that they never heard of that problem before and it must be caused by something that I did or didn't do.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
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Thanks for the update. I judge from what has been my limited experiences with dealerships. It seems like whenever I take in a car under warranty, the service representative looks at me like I'm growing a third eye and tells me that they never heard of that problem before and it must be caused by something that I did or didn't do.
I know what you mean - been there, done that in the past. A lot of it comes down to the SA, the service manager and the relationship you can build with them over time. I've been using the same dealer in SE MA for 10 years and have had lots of opportunity to work with those guys. In the beginning though, it was tougher until they came to realize I had some useful understanding of how the cars worked. I've actually had the opportunity to keep them updated on some of the things I've learned right here on AW and with a contact I've had at AOA who is very knowledgeable about all things that are going on with the cars. They actually appreciate the info.

One thing to keep in mind is the service folks get hundreds of people in for service each month with all kinds of complaints, not all of which are valid, can be replicated or are caused by operator misunderstanding. The key is to have your ducks in a row and be able to properly explain and demonstrate the issue whenever possible and to be patient and respectfully persistent. If all else fails, trying another dealer service dept. might be the only solution.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:38 AM   #16
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I was awoken this AM by the sound of a municipal snowplow ripping up a four-foot long piece of city street outside my apartment building. Yesterday I drove into Manhattan and the Major Deegan Expressway was a veritable mine field of ripped up pavement. At one point the traffic was backed up as even hurried New Yorkers were slowed to a crawl traversing a section where all three lanes were just totally ripped apart for a distance of about 100 yards. Jeez!
Why donít they use rubber/urethane tipped/edged plow blades? Does the road repair industry have that tight a grip on governmental leaders? Well, I am sure we all know the answer (add to them the tire and alignment retailers).
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:50 AM   #17
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I was awoken this AM by the sound of a municipal snowplow ripping up a four-foot long piece of city street outside my apartment building. Yesterday I drove into Manhattan and the Major Deegan Expressway was a veritable mine field of ripped up pavement. At one point the traffic was backed up as even hurried New Yorkers were slowed to a crawl traversing a section where all three lanes were just totally ripped apart for a distance of about 100 yards. Jeez!
Why donít they use rubber/urethane tipped/edged plow blades? Does the road repair industry have that tight a grip on governmental leaders? Well, I am sure we all know the answer (add to them the tire and alignment retailers).
makes sense, no destroyed road, no job created.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:10 AM   #18
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I was awoken this AM by the sound of a municipal snowplow ripping up a four-foot long piece of city street outside my apartment building. Yesterday I drove into Manhattan and the Major Deegan Expressway was a veritable mine field of ripped up pavement. At one point the traffic was backed up as even hurried New Yorkers were slowed to a crawl traversing a section where all three lanes were just totally ripped apart for a distance of about 100 yards. Jeez!
Why donít they use rubber/urethane tipped/edged plow blades? Does the road repair industry have that tight a grip on governmental leaders? Well, I am sure we all know the answer (add to them the tire and alignment retailers).
Wow, that sounds like a nightmare. I complain when I see a couple inch divit in the road.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:13 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by snagitseven View Post
Actually the door sticker is for max load (driver, three passengers and luggage). The manual's PSI for normal load is for driver, and passenger. If you use the max load PSI, there will actually be less flex in the sidewalls to absorb potholes increasing the chance for damage. I usually go a lb or two above normal load as a compromise between ride and handling and reserve full load PSI for when going on a trip with a full trunk of luggage.
My theory to have higher pressure is that at least you dont get to the wheels when you hit a hole.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:43 PM   #20
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My theory to have higher pressure is that at least you dont get to the wheels when you hit a hole.
I would think that would pass more pressure to the wheel as there would be less flex in the tire, and you are probably more likely to actually split the tire and have an immediate flat vs. a bubble you can at least drive home on.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:43 PM
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