Premium Plus Non Bose Subwoofer upgrade.
I posted about a week ago about how I had discovered the miserable little sub Audi put in our cars. It's a 10 inch woofer, but weighs less than a pound.
Today I installed a DLS OA10D in the rear deck, with a SONY XM1S amp.
It involved removing the rear deck, removing the old sub, bolting in the new one, and installing the amp.
It took me about 4 hours to complete. I'll provide more details when I get time to take some pics.
Well, after the install was complete, the moment of truth arrived. I turned it on and it sounds unreal. Tight, beautiful musical bass. It really is amazing. I can't imagine needing more bass than this. Just phenomenal. If you want to crank it, it continues to give more and more...to the point it's probably embarrassing outside the car.
The MMI subwoofer dial, which previously did seemingly nothing now perfectly controls the aftermarket sub. I really had no idea an open air sub could sound this good.
So here are some Pics and a step by step.
1) Remove the rear deck - This sounds more daunting than it is. You need to remove the c pillar covers on each side - the ones along the side of the rear deck. They pop off easily with two clips each
2) Remove the drivers side speaker grille on the rear deck by pulling up on the front of it. It unclips and slides towards the front. Then remove the 5 screws unerneath the grille
3) Push up on the front of the rear deck, thereby unclipping the three large clips. The back of the deck is secured by 3 hooks, pull the deck towards the front of the car and the entire thing will slide out with a little maneuvering.
4) Remove the old "sub" - four obvious screws and the speaker connection and she's outta there!
5) Installing the new sub requires drilling holes. You will be dropping the new sub into the hole from the top. However, as you will notice, you cant drill from the top, because of the rear window. I ended up removing the rubber ring from the new sub, and using it as a template to drill the holes from the underside. I just lightly taped it in place and made my marks. Drilling the holes was easy. The pics show the sub from above and below
6) Bolt the new sub to the metal deck and reinstall the rear deck and c-pillar covers. You don't need to use any of the old subwoofer parts / grilles / etc.
7) Amp install - I installed the amp in drivers side cubby hole in the trunk. It lays neatly in there and I strapped it to the black plastic "shelf" by running straps in between the underside of the shelf and the top of the factory radio unit which sits one level below where the amp will now be.
I ran a 6 gauge fused power wire to the battery in the trunk. There is a perfect grounding spot on the driver's side rear wheel well - a couple of other wires are already grounded there. I attached a 6 gauge grounding wire to that point and connected it to the amp. There is a picture of the grounding spot.
Tapping the sub line , I used a wire tap and tapped into it at the radio unit, just below the amp. You will see a pair of twisted wires - one brown wire with a blue stripe, and one blue wire. The blue wire is the positive, and the brown with blue is negative sub feed. There is a pic of this. I connected it to the left speaker high level feed of the XMS1 Amp.
I then Ran speaker wire to the sub and connected it to the "L" out on the amp. This sony amp defaults to mono mode when only one speaker is connected.
Also, the amp I used does not require a remote wire - it uses the speaker inputs as a remote wire. It actually turns on when you open the driver's door and shuts off about 3 minutes after the MMI has powered down.
I made the appropriate adjustments to the amp, and fired it up!
I cannot recommend this $250 upgrade enough. It is night and day. I am so thrilled with the outcome.
And the amp...