Harvi007

Indeed sir you are correct! I've checked when i got home and there is a battery under the wheel so that's the power sorted.

Sure i can connect only one set of +&- and not bridge, but my next question is, do you know if the lc2i will give output on the 2 rca's with only one side input? If not, will the amp function ok with only 1 rca input?

And my final question if you can help is where can i get a remote feed from to turn the lc2i and amp off when the engine is turned off?

Thanks in advance

subterFUSE

It depends on the amplifier, so you might need to check the documentation to be sure. However, most amps require both inputs when used in mono mode in which case a simple Y-Adapter RCA cable will do the trick.

We used the fuse panel in the right corner of the trunk, opposite the side with the Bose amplifier. There will be some unused ports there you can tap into. Just need to add a fuse. Check the manual for identification of the ports so you can find a switched one.


By the way, if you go to Audi erWIN website you can download the repair manuals for the car that have the wiring diagrams. You have to pay them for a 24 hour access pass, but it's $30 well spent.

Harvi007

Thanks, just one last question, how do I remove the original sub and grill from under the shelf in the boot? Only reason I ask is because it's stopping my sub box from being pushed back.

Thank you for all the help sir (",)

subterFUSE

I think you will need to remove the rear deck panel.

You will want to take that panel out anyway, just to do some proper sound dampening.

VA_Stephen

Been following this post and considering upgrading the sub because the bass in my car is so "muddy" - not crisp and clear.


My problem is I have the Bose system. Took car to an audio dealer here in Northern VA and he offered to install the sub (JL Audio 10W3v3) and amp but said that to make any real difference I would need to add a an AudioControl LC2i line converter so I could reduce the MMI base setting to -1 and use the bass control in the line converter to add the bass back in. He then demonstrated how the bass is not just coming out of my sub like it does in my home system but also out of all of my speakers - producing "muddy" bass and claimed using the lower factory base setting and the LC2i to add it back into the sub output would improve my system. All that sort of makes sense to me, but now I'm wondering if even the LC2i can correct this or if it will just be an awkward sounding bandaid and not worth the $700 this speaker/amp/line converter upgrade will cost me.


Any guidance from the group would be appreciated!

Harvi007

Hi, I'll be getting my LC2i this week some time and hope to fit it this Friday evening.

I shall let you know how it sounds, although I have been looking into the JL Cleansweep with a summing device.

VA_Stephen

Can't wait to get your take on it!


Thought about something similar to Cleansweep, but it appears to be a much more invasive (and expensive) upgrade since in addition to a bigger and more expensive processing box it would seem to require an ADDITIONAL high power amp...and require significantly more labor to install; likely doubling my current $700 budget.


I'm also concerned I might not see enough improvement to make that kind of investment worthwhile since I mostly listen to Sirus & Bluetooth sources around town and mostly only use iPod or SD card for longer trips


Please post your results (and pics) soonest!!

subterFUSE

For those looking to do upgrades to the audio, there are many good options that can replace the entire Bose system and cost about the same as, or less than, the B&O upgrade while sounding much better.


Look at the Mosconi D2 series DSP/amp combos, or the Helix P6DSP. Audison Prima is another line worth considering if you are OK with lesser quality DSP than the Mosconi or Helix.

All of these are small-footprint, Class D amplifiers with built-in DSP. They can interface with the OEM audio and allow easy integration with aftermarket speakers. They are small enough to be easily installed in the trunk compartment where the Bose amp is located. About the size of a paperback book. They are efficient and don't generate a lot of heat.

The Mosconi D2 80.6DSP is a perfect example:

6 channels x 80 Watts Class D
On-Board DSP based on the Mosconi 6to8.
Fully configurable active crossover.
30 bands of paragraphic EQ per channel.
Time alignment for all channels.
Accepts low level or high level inputs, plus optical digital.

D2 80.6 DSP ? Mosconi America

Mosconi also makes a companion mono amplifier which can be fed from the D2 80.6DSP to power a subwoofer.

D2 500.1 ? Mosconi America

I have been putting some serious consideration into using the D2 80.6DSP in my wife's new SQ5. With 6 channels x 80 Watts, I can run a 3-way active speaker set in the front. Then use the mono block to run a subwoofer in the trunk. There is more than enough room in the SQ5's tire well to install 2 subwoofers while keeping the spare. The D2 amps can go in the side compartment. No trunk space lost.


The Helix P6DSP is very similar to the Mosconi D2, but has 6 x 100 Watts.
Built-in DSP based on the new Helix DSP Pro (which is the DSP in my car currently)

HELIX P SIX DSP



And, don't forget the mObridge DA1 preamp is compatible with the C7's MMI. Simply plugs into the MOST fiber optic cable from the Bose amp, and give you an Optical Digital output for your aftermarket equipment to use.

KORABLEW45

HOW DO YOU CONNECT WIRES FROM THE HEAD OR AMPLIFIER ???

Harvi007

Has to be from the amp as the wires from the head unit are fiber optic.