Subwoofer upgrade complete - and it rocks!
#221
Indeed sir you are correct! I've checked when i got home and there is a battery under the wheel so that's the power sorted.
Sure i can connect only one set of +&- and not bridge, but my next question is, do you know if the lc2i will give output on the 2 rca's with only one side input? If not, will the amp function ok with only 1 rca input?
And my final question if you can help is where can i get a remote feed from to turn the lc2i and amp off when the engine is turned off?
Thanks in advance
Sure i can connect only one set of +&- and not bridge, but my next question is, do you know if the lc2i will give output on the 2 rca's with only one side input? If not, will the amp function ok with only 1 rca input?
And my final question if you can help is where can i get a remote feed from to turn the lc2i and amp off when the engine is turned off?
Thanks in advance
#222
AudiWorld Senior Member
And my final question if you can help is where can i get a remote feed from to turn the lc2i and amp off when the engine is turned off?
By the way, if you go to Audi erWIN website you can download the repair manuals for the car that have the wiring diagrams. You have to pay them for a 24 hour access pass, but it's $30 well spent.
#223
Thanks, just one last question, how do I remove the original sub and grill from under the shelf in the boot? Only reason I ask is because it's stopping my sub box from being pushed back.
Thank you for all the help sir (",)
Thank you for all the help sir (",)
#224
AudiWorld Senior Member
You will want to take that panel out anyway, just to do some proper sound dampening.
#225
AudiWorld Junior Member
Prestige/Bose Subupgrade
Been following this post and considering upgrading the sub because the bass in my car is so "muddy" - not crisp and clear.
My problem is I have the Bose system. Took car to an audio dealer here in Northern VA and he offered to install the sub (JL Audio 10W3v3) and amp but said that to make any real difference I would need to add a an AudioControl LC2i line converter so I could reduce the MMI base setting to -1 and use the bass control in the line converter to add the bass back in. He then demonstrated how the bass is not just coming out of my sub like it does in my home system but also out of all of my speakers - producing "muddy" bass and claimed using the lower factory base setting and the LC2i to add it back into the sub output would improve my system. All that sort of makes sense to me, but now I'm wondering if even the LC2i can correct this or if it will just be an awkward sounding bandaid and not worth the $700 this speaker/amp/line converter upgrade will cost me.
Any guidance from the group would be appreciated!
My problem is I have the Bose system. Took car to an audio dealer here in Northern VA and he offered to install the sub (JL Audio 10W3v3) and amp but said that to make any real difference I would need to add a an AudioControl LC2i line converter so I could reduce the MMI base setting to -1 and use the bass control in the line converter to add the bass back in. He then demonstrated how the bass is not just coming out of my sub like it does in my home system but also out of all of my speakers - producing "muddy" bass and claimed using the lower factory base setting and the LC2i to add it back into the sub output would improve my system. All that sort of makes sense to me, but now I'm wondering if even the LC2i can correct this or if it will just be an awkward sounding bandaid and not worth the $700 this speaker/amp/line converter upgrade will cost me.
Any guidance from the group would be appreciated!
#226
Been following this post and considering upgrading the sub because the bass in my car is so "muddy" - not crisp and clear.
My problem is I have the Bose system. Took car to an audio dealer here in Northern VA and he offered to install the sub (JL Audio 10W3v3) and amp but said that to make any real difference I would need to add a an AudioControl LC2i line converter so I could reduce the MMI base setting to -1 and use the bass control in the line converter to add the bass back in. He then demonstrated how the bass is not just coming out of my sub like it does in my home system but also out of all of my speakers - producing "muddy" bass and claimed using the lower factory base setting and the LC2i to add it back into the sub output would improve my system. All that sort of makes sense to me, but now I'm wondering if even the LC2i can correct this or if it will just be an awkward sounding bandaid and not worth the $700 this speaker/amp/line converter upgrade will cost me.
Any guidance from the group would be appreciated!
My problem is I have the Bose system. Took car to an audio dealer here in Northern VA and he offered to install the sub (JL Audio 10W3v3) and amp but said that to make any real difference I would need to add a an AudioControl LC2i line converter so I could reduce the MMI base setting to -1 and use the bass control in the line converter to add the bass back in. He then demonstrated how the bass is not just coming out of my sub like it does in my home system but also out of all of my speakers - producing "muddy" bass and claimed using the lower factory base setting and the LC2i to add it back into the sub output would improve my system. All that sort of makes sense to me, but now I'm wondering if even the LC2i can correct this or if it will just be an awkward sounding bandaid and not worth the $700 this speaker/amp/line converter upgrade will cost me.
Any guidance from the group would be appreciated!
I shall let you know how it sounds, although I have been looking into the JL Cleansweep with a summing device.
#227
AudiWorld Junior Member
Can't wait to get your take on it!
Thought about something similar to Cleansweep, but it appears to be a much more invasive (and expensive) upgrade since in addition to a bigger and more expensive processing box it would seem to require an ADDITIONAL high power amp...and require significantly more labor to install; likely doubling my current $700 budget.
I'm also concerned I might not see enough improvement to make that kind of investment worthwhile since I mostly listen to Sirus & Bluetooth sources around town and mostly only use iPod or SD card for longer trips
Please post your results (and pics) soonest!!
Thought about something similar to Cleansweep, but it appears to be a much more invasive (and expensive) upgrade since in addition to a bigger and more expensive processing box it would seem to require an ADDITIONAL high power amp...and require significantly more labor to install; likely doubling my current $700 budget.
I'm also concerned I might not see enough improvement to make that kind of investment worthwhile since I mostly listen to Sirus & Bluetooth sources around town and mostly only use iPod or SD card for longer trips
Please post your results (and pics) soonest!!
#228
AudiWorld Senior Member
For those looking to do upgrades to the audio, there are many good options that can replace the entire Bose system and cost about the same as, or less than, the B&O upgrade while sounding much better.
Look at the Mosconi D2 series DSP/amp combos, or the Helix P6DSP. Audison Prima is another line worth considering if you are OK with lesser quality DSP than the Mosconi or Helix.
All of these are small-footprint, Class D amplifiers with built-in DSP. They can interface with the OEM audio and allow easy integration with aftermarket speakers. They are small enough to be easily installed in the trunk compartment where the Bose amp is located. About the size of a paperback book. They are efficient and don't generate a lot of heat.
The Mosconi D2 80.6DSP is a perfect example:
6 channels x 80 Watts Class D
On-Board DSP based on the Mosconi 6to8.
Fully configurable active crossover.
30 bands of paragraphic EQ per channel.
Time alignment for all channels.
Accepts low level or high level inputs, plus optical digital.
D2 80.6 DSP ? Mosconi America
Mosconi also makes a companion mono amplifier which can be fed from the D2 80.6DSP to power a subwoofer.
D2 500.1 ? Mosconi America
I have been putting some serious consideration into using the D2 80.6DSP in my wife's new SQ5. With 6 channels x 80 Watts, I can run a 3-way active speaker set in the front. Then use the mono block to run a subwoofer in the trunk. There is more than enough room in the SQ5's tire well to install 2 subwoofers while keeping the spare. The D2 amps can go in the side compartment. No trunk space lost.
The Helix P6DSP is very similar to the Mosconi D2, but has 6 x 100 Watts.
Built-in DSP based on the new Helix DSP Pro (which is the DSP in my car currently)
HELIX P SIX DSP
And, don't forget the mObridge DA1 preamp is compatible with the C7's MMI. Simply plugs into the MOST fiber optic cable from the Bose amp, and give you an Optical Digital output for your aftermarket equipment to use.
Look at the Mosconi D2 series DSP/amp combos, or the Helix P6DSP. Audison Prima is another line worth considering if you are OK with lesser quality DSP than the Mosconi or Helix.
All of these are small-footprint, Class D amplifiers with built-in DSP. They can interface with the OEM audio and allow easy integration with aftermarket speakers. They are small enough to be easily installed in the trunk compartment where the Bose amp is located. About the size of a paperback book. They are efficient and don't generate a lot of heat.
The Mosconi D2 80.6DSP is a perfect example:
6 channels x 80 Watts Class D
On-Board DSP based on the Mosconi 6to8.
Fully configurable active crossover.
30 bands of paragraphic EQ per channel.
Time alignment for all channels.
Accepts low level or high level inputs, plus optical digital.
D2 80.6 DSP ? Mosconi America
Mosconi also makes a companion mono amplifier which can be fed from the D2 80.6DSP to power a subwoofer.
D2 500.1 ? Mosconi America
I have been putting some serious consideration into using the D2 80.6DSP in my wife's new SQ5. With 6 channels x 80 Watts, I can run a 3-way active speaker set in the front. Then use the mono block to run a subwoofer in the trunk. There is more than enough room in the SQ5's tire well to install 2 subwoofers while keeping the spare. The D2 amps can go in the side compartment. No trunk space lost.
The Helix P6DSP is very similar to the Mosconi D2, but has 6 x 100 Watts.
Built-in DSP based on the new Helix DSP Pro (which is the DSP in my car currently)
HELIX P SIX DSP
And, don't forget the mObridge DA1 preamp is compatible with the C7's MMI. Simply plugs into the MOST fiber optic cable from the Bose amp, and give you an Optical Digital output for your aftermarket equipment to use.
Last edited by subterFUSE; 04-15-2015 at 04:29 AM.