IknowHuhA6

My Brake pad service light came on. Dealer quoted me $700.00 to do rear brakes Oh hell's No!
So couple friends that work at auto shops said they would help me disengage E-brake so I could do rear brakes myself. But two weeks later and nuffin!!

With no VagCom yet purhcased, I looked for an alternative before I risked any brake failure. Found a youtube thread of a procedure to bypass VagCom successfully while replacing rear brakes and took a risk. Yes I know... I now risked E-Brake failure. However, I can now report SUCCESS!!!

Drove car around, set and released e-brake and so far so good.
If no problems arise over next week, I'll post more info for anyone who is interested. Or I'll post my consequences.
edit: FYI, if you search for this process, please know that the tools sizes called out for use are NOT correct for the C7.

Wza

Nice work! I always love reading your DIY approach to tasks others concede to the dealer. Is the video you followed the one of the really nervous guy here?



He mentions at the end that the system will check if the piston is fully extendible but didn't go into what that step entailed. Did you do anything special for this or is it just done when the caliper is bolted back on with the new pads and power is hooked back up?

tenspeed

I'll be waiting...

I watched the video and it seems easier to remove the ebrake motor than to hook up the cable and laptop. Might as well lube up the works and antiseize the bolts while it's apart.

IknowHuhA6

Thank you for kind words! Appreciate the support. Yes you caught me! Thats the video I referenced with few differences. As I mentioned, do NOT use tools mentioned on C7 as they are different sizes. On my 2012 I used a T30 bit instead of what was suggested. If you try this procedure you should make sure the tool fits appropriately before you risk stripping bolts by using wrong tool. That would be a bad situation where you make matters worse and increase your costs by taking car to dealer for repair of damage you caused. Definite No-No. Be Safe-Not sorry.

When I wiggled E-brake motors back on I used T40 bit to turn E-brake piston counter clockwise to press up against new brakes installed. I thought it best to hand tighten both sides not hard (but firmly) against pads to keep somewhat equal position on both sides. I really should have used torque wrench for more accurate results. Once I felt both E-brake pistons pushed up against actual brake caliper piston at similar finger tight pressure, I re-assembled everything.

The final procedure was to start engine accesory mode, and cycle E-Brake 5 times to ensure they engaged and retracted. Then drove car around block.
I'll post more detailed info once I'm convinced this didn't cause any problems.

LOL, I wouldn't know until I get the Vagcom and start using it. Some of us are more mechanically inclined over being computer savvy at software. So to each their own preference. FYI, I can rebuild an engine from ground up and also write programing code. But I prefer good ole mechanical wrenching.

Once i'm convinced I didn't suffer catastrophic damage or death from this procedure, I'll post more information on what I did and learned. I'll even take brakes apart again and post photos cuz that's just how I roll. hyuk hyuk.

BillBoost37

You rebel...

Good to see there's an alternative. I had the battery charger hooked up under the hood and did the Vagcom method, still was nervous as heck.

02AudiA6

Currently doing what you are doing on my 2012 A6 and wonder what is the caliper to wheel carrier torque spec for the two 18mm bolts? I think it's on the high side since took me a while to take those two bolts off! Thanks in advance!

IknowHuhA6

Yes they were tight. I used breaker bar and lots of force. if I find torque spec I'll post tomorrow. i have a fastening book in the car but unfortunately the car is at dealer getting fuel rail recall done at moment.

I plan on going back under tomorrow to check for tightness once more just in case.

Tomorrow will be a week after install and so far everything is ok. I tried to retract (spin) the bolt that moves the calipers the exact same counts on each side to keep each side equal in case that mattered. Hopefully next time I need rear brakes I will have VagCom by then.

IknowHuhA6

Forgot I had the online version on my laptop. Here's what I have listed for 2012 A6 specs.
And below these a link to a great break write-up by another member...

Pg. 113, Mechanical Components, Fastener Tightening Specifications,
All measurements in nm, so convert to ft-lbs as needed for tool used.

Brake pedal bracket-to-body nut, 8nm
Brake pedal mounting pin-to-bracket bolt 8nm
Electromechanical parking brake control module nut 3nm
Electromechanical parking brake motor-to-rear brake 12nm
Rear brake caliper-to-brake carrier bolt 35nm
Rear brake carrier-to-wheel bearing housing bolt 100nm plus an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn)
Rear brake hose in brake caliper 19nm
Rear brake hose-to-brake pipe line 12nm
Rear brake pad bolt 5nm
Trim and balance spring-to-caliper bolt 22nm

Great write up here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...e-diy-2860888/

02AudiA6

Thanks. I brought Ross Tech VAG-com when I worked on my 2002 A6 so it already paid for itself many years ago. It was pretty easy using it to release the EPB. The only problem is that Ross Tech just recently updated the software and the screen interface is totally different from what it used to be or in their outdated instructional youtube video. Luckily they have written instruction on their website for the new interface for the specific Audi's. It took me longer to find the instruction than taking out the pads.

michael tsampis

I have the same issue, I have version 12.12 and its not what they show on the videos. I'm having the problem of doing the function test ( can't find it ) and my other issue is the rear brake pads warning is still on and can't find now where how to reset it or clear it. I have a 2012 A6. If any one can help I would really appreciate it.