Help the electronics idiot
#1
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Help the electronics idiot
Mechanical stuff, I'm extremely comfortable doing. Electronics, not so much. I need some help.
Gotta do a temporary boost gauge install. Need some connection points under the hood, and some in the car.
Under the hood I need; 12V and Ground (which I can find).
In the car; 12V, Ground, Switched 12V.
Just doing a temporary install, because theres really no place to put a gauge in this car, so connections that I can use quick disconnects would be best. Rather not deal with cutting and soldering.
Gotta do a temporary boost gauge install. Need some connection points under the hood, and some in the car.
Under the hood I need; 12V and Ground (which I can find).
In the car; 12V, Ground, Switched 12V.
Just doing a temporary install, because theres really no place to put a gauge in this car, so connections that I can use quick disconnects would be best. Rather not deal with cutting and soldering.
#2
Get a cheapo voltmeter from Harbor Freight for a buck or two, splurge on the nicer fuse taps (not the simple metal prong ones) though I know that's counter to your nature
Edit: look here for both kinds of fuse taps used in another application: https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
#3
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Fuse box plus voltmeter plus fuse taps and bam!
Get a cheapo voltmeter from Harbor Freight for a buck or two, splurge on the nicer fuse taps (not the simple metal prong ones) though I know that's counter to your nature
Edit: look here for both kinds of fuse taps used in another application: https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
Get a cheapo voltmeter from Harbor Freight for a buck or two, splurge on the nicer fuse taps (not the simple metal prong ones) though I know that's counter to your nature
Edit: look here for both kinds of fuse taps used in another application: https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
Just gotta figure out what fuses are constant and which are switched, which is a real nuisance when the car is constantly turning itself off.
#4
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Mike,
I'm not at home but search on hardwiring a radar detector. I used one of those fuse taps to install mine and hardwire and you should be able to get your 12v switched source. Either AW or AZ had some install threads.
I'm not at home but search on hardwiring a radar detector. I used one of those fuse taps to install mine and hardwire and you should be able to get your 12v switched source. Either AW or AZ had some install threads.
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I did the mechanical part and installed the boost tap. Haven't attempted the gauge yet. I have some serious porting to do before I get that far. This elbow is a horrible fit.
Elbow removed
Bypass throttle body. Unlike most bypasses which are vacuum controlled, this is 100% electronic. Tiny too, only 48mm.
Bypass outlet, into the manifold. Look at where the gasket mark is. There is A LOT of material to be removed here. Not with the blower on the motor though. Thats asking for trouble.
Bypass side of the elbow. Fair amount of material to be removed here too. Probably do it tomorrow.
Elbow removed
Bypass throttle body. Unlike most bypasses which are vacuum controlled, this is 100% electronic. Tiny too, only 48mm.
Bypass outlet, into the manifold. Look at where the gasket mark is. There is A LOT of material to be removed here. Not with the blower on the motor though. Thats asking for trouble.
Bypass side of the elbow. Fair amount of material to be removed here too. Probably do it tomorrow.
#6
Turn car all the way off and find a hot fuse - there's your constant 12V Switched could be more painful, but again let us know where to look.
#7
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Someplace in the car. Probably the drivers side dash fusebox would be best. I'm just using a gauge cup and a hose clamp to attach the gauge to the steering column trim, so anyplace near there would work. If thats where the 12V power port or AMI fuses are, I'm golden. I know for sure that those are switched. My Security beacon won't stay running if I turn the car off, and that plugs into the 12V in the console.
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