clancy

If your ESP were not misbehaving and the light was not lit you would be able to push the button and turn it off or disengage it. I do not know whether if the light is lit you are able to still do this.

jamile222

I thought that the esp light and traction control light are desperate things. I have a esp light but it goes off when I crank the car. The light that stays on is the circle arrow with the triangle in it and the exclamation point in the triangle. Aren't those lights two separate entities?

clancy

They may be the same circuit. When I have wheel slip the circle triangle thing illuminates and the traction control activates. If I disengage the ESP by pushing in the button this same symbol illuminates and I can accelerate without the throttle being controlled by the car's brain. I was suggesting you try disengaging the ESP just to be certain it was not part of your WOT acceleration problem. Although I expect this is not your issue.

jamile222

I don't think it part of my problem. I pulled all the fuses for the esp and I still have the same problem. I went to advance earlier and hooked up a obd2 scanner and there is a function to monitor some motor points. It showed at idle my throttle is 15% and when I put it to the floor it's 100% but my maf sensor was showing 0 the whole time. Could it simply be my maf sensor is bad and it's either letting too much air in or not enough. OR could it be that the obd2 scanner couldn't receive any feedback from the maf but if that is true wouldn't it show --- instead or a 0?

jamile222

Also I pulled codes again and there was a code about the secondary air pump but I think that was taken off because we don't have emissions here.

Kris Hansen

First, you need to get someone with a VAGCOM to scan it, or at least, someone with a scanner that can read more than just the basic obd codes. Second, if it runs BETTER with the MAF disconnected, then the MAF is probably no good.

jamile222

I'm in Manassas va. I don't think anyone up here knows what that is. There ain't but a couple ppl who tune or do mods and they all go for either hondas or high end like vettes. I don't see much of audis or Amgs or m series here. And it runs a little better with the maf disconnected but I'm trying to find the root of the problem.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

try these guys:

Lorton, Virginia Shop | Performance parts, tuning, and service for Volkswagen and Audi vehicles ? NGP Racing

Alternatively, find a tuner shop closer to you but you will generally need a VCDS or some form of VAGCOM to get codes.

pr0xZen

I get what you're saying, but it is possible that a gone MAF sensor is the root of your problem. It clearly is contributing to it running poorly. If you can, try to sort a spare, used one, borrow one - at least just for testing.

If you're mostly looking to scan and/or clear detailed codes on vw/audi/skoda/seat - you can get away with just a decent usb-serial to obd2 interface cable (KKL cable on ebay), and VCDS lite. Cable can be had for $10 and VCDS lite is free. Will probably take a bit to get it though, try to find a seller in your country, or as mentioned - get someone with proper scan tools to scan it for you. This will give you limited descriptions of what the codes mean, but you can look that up on ross-tech.com once you have the full code(s). Also, if using any non-official RT cable, and you have an aftermarked headunit - make sure to read up on testing K-line for live voltage before connecting, or you may fry your USB controller.

(Not sure if you can clear airbag codes with VCDS lite, but that, AFAIK is currently not relevant.)

jamile222

Yeah I get what your saying. That shop listed above is actually not too far away and they will scan it for 40$ and they think that it could be that the person who did the timing could be one notch off and that would explain the cam sensor codes and maf and all bc if it's timed wrong all that will be off. Idk if it is a really good price or not but they told me they would scan it. Figure out the problem. And retime it if that's the problem for 300$. Another shop told me 1100$ just to retime it and 150$ to scan. So I think imma take that 300$ route.