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03 a6 engine help or new one needed

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Old 11-17-2013, 05:34 PM   #1
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Default 03 a6 engine help or new one needed

I have a 03 A6 no compression on drivers side . 30-30-0 pass side . It was overheated before I got her . Timing belt was intact not broke. Start pulling all apart to dig further into , possible new motor needed or any suggestions needed . Live in Pittsburgh area .
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:48 PM   #2
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I have a 03 A6 no compression on drivers side . 30-30-0 pass side . It was overheated before I got her . Timing belt was intact not broke. Start pulling all apart to dig further into , possible new motor needed or any suggestions needed . Live in Pittsburgh area .
Oh yeah definitely need a new motor if all your heads are bashed up.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:54 PM   #3
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I have a 03 A6 no compression on drivers side . 30-30-0 pass side . It was overheated before I got her . Timing belt was intact not broke. Start pulling all apart to dig further into , possible new motor needed or any suggestions needed . Live in Pittsburgh area .
The timing belt almost never breaks. It skips teeth, though, if a tensioner fails or a pulley seizes.

A new engine will likely be your cheapest solution.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:11 PM   #4
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The tensioner was fine it was fully engaged , no pully was seized motor was over heated
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #5
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The tensioner was fine it was fully engaged , no pully was seized motor was over heated
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Old 11-18-2013, 04:47 AM   #6
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Is there any oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil? If the car overheated, it could be a bad head gasket and that is all. You either have timing that is off or a bad head gasket. If your timing is off, you could have bent valves (most likely did) and could need a new head.

Either way, the only way to know is to break it down, use the timing tools and check timing on your way in. If the timing is off, you know you had a timing problem. If it lines up fine, then you know that at least someone set the timing before you got the car (maybe replaced the belt and found it still won't run).

And once you get the timing tools in place, you are about 1/3-1/2 the way to getting the head off to replace the head gasket. You will need a special tool for the bolts (it's an extended star-type drive, but not a torx) to get the bolts out.

Once you get the head off, you can look for any damage to the pistons.

Also, a leakdown test may give you more insight before you go into all this work.

And how is the compression on the other side?

Everyone always jumps on the replace your engine bandwagon, because at some point it does make sense, but I replaced a head on a 2.7T because it ran low on oil and chewed up the cams (this person doesn't know how to use a dipstick) and it cost me about $400 for a refurbished head instead of $1,000 for an engine or more. Not saying one way is right or wrong - but there are two options and both involve a lot of work.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:56 PM   #7
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Is there any oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil? If the car overheated, it could be a bad head gasket and that is all.
The car could've overheated due to a coolant leak. I've noticed my car getting 1-1/2 past the center and one time(hot summer 90s), even pulled over and shut off to cool it ... all due to oil cooler pipe leaking! The air pockets would do it.


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Everyone always jumps on the replace your engine bandwagon, because at some point it does make sense, but I replaced a head on a 2.7T because it ran low on oil and chewed up the cams (this person doesn't know how to use a dipstick) and it cost me about $400 for a refurbished head instead of $1,000 for an engine or more. Not saying one way is right or wrong - but there are two options and both involve a lot of work.
I agree here. If you are going to do the work, might as well work only on affected areas (of course, after localizing the problem and assessing full damage).
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:56 PM   #8
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Is there any oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil? If the car overheated, it could be a bad head gasket and that is all.
The car could've overheated due to a coolant leak. I've noticed my car getting 1-1/2 past the center and one time(hot summer 90s), even pulled over and shut off to cool it ... all due to oil cooler pipe leaking! The air pockets would do it.
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Originally Posted by jseklund View Post
Everyone always jumps on the replace your engine bandwagon, because at some point it does make sense, but I replaced a head on a 2.7T because it ran low on oil and chewed up the cams (this person doesn't know how to use a dipstick) and it cost me about $400 for a refurbished head instead of $1,000 for an engine or more. Not saying one way is right or wrong - but there are two options and both involve a lot of work.
I agree here. If you are going to do the work, might as well work only on affected areas (of course, after localizing the problem and assessing full damage).
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No more OIL or COOLANT leaks! │ T-Belt, Water pump & Valve Covers DONE! │ Trans & F.M.R -Diff Fluids, flangeshaft seal DONE! │ RL Caliper replaced │ CCV replaced with OEM -no quacks! | Both Front wheel bearings replaced│
Fuel Banks 1 & 2 Lean issue fixed (finally!)
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:45 AM   #9
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The car could've overheated due to a coolant leak. I've noticed my car getting 1-1/2 past the center and one time(hot summer 90s), even pulled over and shut off to cool it ... all due to oil cooler pipe leaking! The air pockets would do it.

I agree here. If you are going to do the work, might as well work only on affected areas (of course, after localizing the problem and assessing full damage).
I'm not saying the car overheated because of the bad head gasket - just that if it overheated badly enough, it may have damaged the head gasket.

And when I did it, I had a head that was damaged not from timing failure but from oil starvation - so it may be a little different, but I figured that it was easier to unbolt the intake and the exhaust manifold from the turbo and pull the head than to pull the entire engine. Of course, I knew the engine's maintenance history before that and didn't have as many ???s.

Both are options and options are good.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:48 AM   #10
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Ok update got pass side head off one bent valve on intake . So the timing did jump , only one valve not so bad . Order new valve and lifter to be safe . Should be in tomorrow . So I take it the tensioner must have been weak , for it to jump time .
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:34 AM   #11
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so it over heated AND jumped time due to a weak tensioner ? ... something doesnt sound right

did the water pump seize ? maybe i missed part of this thread but the first question i would ask is why did it overheat..
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:39 AM   #12
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Ok update got pass side head off one bent valve on intake . So the timing did jump , only one valve not so bad . Order new valve and lifter to be safe . Should be in tomorrow . So I take it the tensioner must have been weak , for it to jump time .
So that will solve your passenger size 30-30-0 compression. And you got 0 compression on all cylinders on the driver's side?

You don't bend valves if the car overheats. If the valves are bent, something caused it. Weak tensioner?

Check the status of the driver's side head. Once all the valves are fixed, do a full timing belt service - replace tensioner, idler pulley, thermostat, water pump - the works.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #13
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I don't claim to understand cars completely, but I don't believe 1 bent valve will cause lack of compression on 3 cylinders. If the timing was off enough for the other valves to be open on the compression stroke, they probably are bent too - but maybe not enough to see. How did you determine the other valves are still good? Visual? Or did you fill the valley with liquid and test if the valves leak?

I also apologize - I did not realize you had no compression on the driver's side. This could make things a little more interesting in regard to a new engine being more cost effective....
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:39 PM   #14
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Motor torn down, the motor over heated due to the line going to the coolant bottle broke . Guess timing jumped due to no coolant on impeller for resistance . Just my theory water pump is not seized . Got valve ordered 7.99 lifter 15.00 not to bad yes I did fill all chambers with water let sit for four hours never leaked down .
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #15
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Drivers side head that had zero compression . Held four hours and never leaked down .
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:55 PM   #16
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Just a thought - when I did this I also ordered the gasket for the valley pan - it rarely leaks, but since I was in there and the car had some mileage on it, I figured I may as well do it right. I would also replace all the timing belt parts while you are in there - the job is good for 75,000 miles roughly, so why tear it down again?

Never worked on that engine - but it looks like a good time for O2 sensors too...I don't know how you got the exhaust off the head while it was still on the car...must have way more room than the 2.7T.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:55 PM
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