2.7 t revs hard / clutch slip
03-31-2015, 09:06 AM
#11
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This is a guess, but perhaps your slave cylinder is hanging up and not retracting consistently when you release the pedal. Brake fluid flushes often overlook the clutch and I wonder if the slave has developed some corrosion. When it acts up the next time, try pumping the clutch several times to see if that action temporarily fixes the slipping. While not a snap, at least you can replace the slave without pulling the transmission.
I suppose the clutch master could also cause problems like this, but first guess is the slave. Release bearing could be hanging up, but out comes the tranny to check and then you redo the whole works anyway.
I suppose the clutch master could also cause problems like this, but first guess is the slave. Release bearing could be hanging up, but out comes the tranny to check and then you redo the whole works anyway.
Where can I look to find the slave and master cylinders? Is there a fluid reservoir?
Probably just wishful thinking, but best to eliminate the "easy" problems first, right?
EDIT: Possibly relevant, but lately I have noticed that it I have to push the clutch in a lot harder than before to start the engine.
Last edited by Flint; 03-31-2015 at 09:23 AM.
04-01-2015, 01:31 PM
#12
The reservoir is shared with the brakes, and the clutch master is down behind the clutch pedal and is accessed from the cabin with major contortions. When a master is bad you usually experience what you did with the Miata. The master piston is just "churning butter" and not forcing fluid to the slave.
The slave is on the driver side of the transmission near the top and you get to it through the wheel well and have to remove a heat shield, detach the drive axle at the inner CVjoint, and the trans mount on that side. Not as bad as pulling trans, but you really should have a manual to get a better picture.
Some have reached the bleeder screw from above for bleeding, so there is a very slight chance that you can pull the slave from above by moving the coolant reservoir and disconnecting some wiring and other stuff in the way. The slave is held by one allen bolt, which is just below the bleeder with blind access. The fluid pipe is held in with a circlip that might be very hard to remove and worse to replace. It's a long reach and you'd be on top of the engine. After thinking about this, I'd go in from the side. That's how I got to the slave even just for bleeding.
Experienced techs might have trick to pull it out from the top. Search the forum, since there are tips on getting the new slave back into the trans. Everything from plastic bags to lassos. Tight space and you have to compress the piston.
The slave is on the driver side of the transmission near the top and you get to it through the wheel well and have to remove a heat shield, detach the drive axle at the inner CVjoint, and the trans mount on that side. Not as bad as pulling trans, but you really should have a manual to get a better picture.
Some have reached the bleeder screw from above for bleeding, so there is a very slight chance that you can pull the slave from above by moving the coolant reservoir and disconnecting some wiring and other stuff in the way. The slave is held by one allen bolt, which is just below the bleeder with blind access. The fluid pipe is held in with a circlip that might be very hard to remove and worse to replace. It's a long reach and you'd be on top of the engine. After thinking about this, I'd go in from the side. That's how I got to the slave even just for bleeding.
Experienced techs might have trick to pull it out from the top. Search the forum, since there are tips on getting the new slave back into the trans. Everything from plastic bags to lassos. Tight space and you have to compress the piston.
04-01-2015, 06:27 PM
#13
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The reservoir is shared with the brakes, and the clutch master is down behind the clutch pedal and is accessed from the cabin with major contortions. When a master is bad you usually experience what you did with the Miata. The master piston is just "churning butter" and not forcing fluid to the slave.
The slave is on the driver side of the transmission near the top and you get to it through the wheel well and have to remove a heat shield, detach the drive axle at the inner CVjoint, and the trans mount on that side. Not as bad as pulling trans, but you really should have a manual to get a better picture.
Some have reached the bleeder screw from above for bleeding, so there is a very slight chance that you can pull the slave from above by moving the coolant reservoir and disconnecting some wiring and other stuff in the way. The slave is held by one allen bolt, which is just below the bleeder with blind access. The fluid pipe is held in with a circlip that might be very hard to remove and worse to replace. It's a long reach and you'd be on top of the engine. After thinking about this, I'd go in from the side. That's how I got to the slave even just for bleeding.
Experienced techs might have trick to pull it out from the top. Search the forum, since there are tips on getting the new slave back into the trans. Everything from plastic bags to lassos. Tight space and you have to compress the piston.
The slave is on the driver side of the transmission near the top and you get to it through the wheel well and have to remove a heat shield, detach the drive axle at the inner CVjoint, and the trans mount on that side. Not as bad as pulling trans, but you really should have a manual to get a better picture.
Some have reached the bleeder screw from above for bleeding, so there is a very slight chance that you can pull the slave from above by moving the coolant reservoir and disconnecting some wiring and other stuff in the way. The slave is held by one allen bolt, which is just below the bleeder with blind access. The fluid pipe is held in with a circlip that might be very hard to remove and worse to replace. It's a long reach and you'd be on top of the engine. After thinking about this, I'd go in from the side. That's how I got to the slave even just for bleeding.
Experienced techs might have trick to pull it out from the top. Search the forum, since there are tips on getting the new slave back into the trans. Everything from plastic bags to lassos. Tight space and you have to compress the piston.
04-02-2015, 06:26 AM
#14
Replacing the slave should take under 2 hrs and slave is less than $100 online, so not $2,000. I would say it's a 4 on a 10 point scale with full clutch replacement an 8, so slave diy is within reason. I would personally take a shot at a new slave either diy or via shop before pulling the trans.
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