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2.7T 6MT - Timing Belt Kit / All Gaskets / Starter Installation
Well, the day has finally come and I've received just about everything I've ordered. I was hoping to wait until this winter but things didn't go that way. Recently had the starter go out on my car and didn't want to possibly pull the front end for that (if I couldn't get it through the fender well) then have to do it several months later for sure for the timing belt job. I ordered an all OEM timing belt kit from FCP with valve cover gaskets, timing chain tensioner gaskets, half moon seals, cam plugs, cam seals, etc, plus a used starter with 90k and some cheap eBay EWK timing tools.
I guess I will post some pictures and some progress as I go in the next week or so once I have everything required. Hopefully this will help others that need to take care of similar projects. Still need to get a 32mm wrench for the fan, some coolant, and cans + more cans of brake cleaner to get all the oil leaks cleaned up.
Also, finally found the obnoxious boost leak whistle that I looked high and low for before pulling the front end. Either the last owner failed to install the hose properly coming off the intercooler or it blew off because the hose clamp wasn't tight. Regardless, I hope that solves my random misfire issue and tightens the boost up a bit.
The saga continues... I feel like I got a lot done today, not just on my car, but the Lexus IS300 that has haunted me for the last month and a half.
How the starter showed up....
After a little TLC...
Accessory belt off, cam bar installed, TDC at crank and getting ready to install the locking pin... If I can find it.
Found the locking pin location... It was confusing at first because my car is a 2002... Apparently mid run, Audi decided to begin putting the BEL blocks in the cars with APB heads, downpipes, turbo flanges, etc... It sketched me out at first because I couldn't find the plastic plug that everyone talked about with the 6mm hex head. Eventually I realized that it was the 8mm drain plug looking thing that I needed to remove. Pin went in without a hitch after some bending, cursing, and cramping hands
Finally got the alternator pulled. The electrical connectors were a bitch to get off... Luckily I had this handy (shown below). I sympathize with anyone who tried to support the alternator while attempting to break the 13mm nut loose off the connection.
The mini impact...
Anddddd... I managed to get this cursed IS300 out of the garage today after the above pictures. I rebuilt the passenger side radiator support, fender apron, and body panels. First time welding turned out okay... Suspension work is finally done and off to get an alignment tomorrow.
After work today I got the new starter in... Back bolt was a biatch but I made due. Had to remove the boost charge pipe, and rubber connector that goes to the turbo. With the 2.7t there is no way to pull it through the fender well because of the turbo pipe coming down toward the intercooler. It all worked out though. All of the work done over the last few days has been when I've been sick, so it may not look like much, but I've been hacking up a lung while doing everything.
Grapeking... What are you asking for the bi pipe? Also, I have cam tensioner seals that are going in as well as the half moon gaskets.
GSRob - glad to hear you have the cam adjuster/tensioner seals as well. On my 2.7T I did everything but those, and of course, in the end that ended up being the leaking part.
Regarding the APR Bi-Pipe: how about $250 shipped to you? This includes the Bi-Pipe, all required parts, installation manual, etc. You're in the perfect place to install it, as the front clip is wide open so it will be a piece of cake for you to install. The best part? No more boost issues or concerns, period! LMK. You can e-mail me at Grapeking1@gmail DOT com.
wow i feel for you .. the starter on these cars is a miserable job .. that rear bolt is one of those 1/128th bite at a time bolts with a wrench .. sooo frustrating..
So, quick question. My engine has been clearly leaking some oil for a long, long time. There is so much disgusting crap build up that brake cleaner isn't cutting it. Can I use a non-acid engine degreaser safely on the pulleys and basically everything in the picture? Obviously this comes with the exception of electrical connectors and other common sense things like in the coolant pipes...
So, quick question. My engine has been clearly leaking some oil for a long, long time. There is so much disgusting crap build up that brake cleaner isn't cutting it. Can I use a non-acid engine degreaser safely on the pulleys and basically everything in the picture? Obviously this comes with the exception of electrical connectors and other common sense things like in the coolant pipes...
I had some stuff down at the shop that did and amazing job. I will post a pic when I get to the shop today.
Plastic scraper and a small brass brush will remove the built-up crud. Then use degreaser to finish the task. By removing the built-up crud, the degreaser can soak into the remaining stuff and loosen it from adhering to the metal/plastic engine parts.
10-05-2014, 12:59 PM
2.7T 6MT - Timing Belt Kit / All Gaskets / Starter Installation
