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Hi all, so around 3 weeks ago, my car started to idle very rough and vcds said bank 1 cylinders were misfiring and also threw out a tensioner code. I opened up the valve cover on bank 1 (US car btw) and there were broken pieces of the plastic pads from the cam chain tensioner. So I bought a used tensioner from someone and new pads to replace the broken one. I also put sharpie markings on the chain before pulling out the tensioner.
So I took the intake cam out, also a major PITA because the torx screws for the cam caps stripped. I got the new tensioner in after a WWE wrestling match with the tensioner, chain and intake cam.
However, the markings on the chain rubbed off somehow, I think because of the oil. Luckily, the markings I made on the intake cam didn't rub off so the intake cam seems aligned. But no matter how hard I try, i can't seem to get the 16 links in between the cam cap arrows. I'm getting around 15 to 15 1/2. The engine is also not at TDC which I should've done, so the notches on the cams are not on top and visible.
I have some pictures, but it may be difficult to count the notches due to image parallax so I've uploaded multiple pictures at two different angles. If anyone could give me advice about my situation, I'd be eternally grateful.
The images show 16 links, as close as you can get them. When you place the cam cover back onto the head, does the notch on the cam sprocket (belt end) align with the mark on the cover?
Too late to the help you, but maybe good for the next guy that reads this.
You'll hear 16 roller count quoted alot. But the count depends on where you start & where you end relative to the alignment notches. Also, the intake cams have alignment notch in different positions relative to gear tooth, while exhaust cams notches are the same positions. I puzzled with this issue for a while, chasing down misfire issues. Finally discovered prior owner switched cam chain tensioners L-R to R-L. Tensioners fit-up the same, but don't work the same. Not foolproof! These pics are all proper position for chain...just depends whether #1 link is counted as to the left or right of the exhaust notch tooth. The hand drawn pic I got from other postings, & cam pics are mine.
Hand sketch for both banks.
PS: It cost me $1200 for an Audi mechanic to teardown & check my cam timing & chain positions, only to tell me I had it right. But he didn't find the switched tensioners. He also managed to strip a couple bolts & break some electrical connectors along the way, while not fixing my misfire problem. Once I discovered switched tensioners, misfires fixed, so I know this chain setup is correct. Hopefully you'll have better service.
He was actually pretty close
Joking aside, two things come to mind:
-after those marks on the intake line up, I would have looked at the 16th roller to see any kind of marks(chanses are they're not completely gone)
-if no marks, chanses are the mark on chain by the intake cam might be the mark that should match the exhaust cam(so the chain's got to go to the right).
Not setting TDC was a bad move. More important than 16 rollers on chain, or just as important is the position of the exhaust cam as far as it spins around it's own axle(the little groove at TDC would be North Otherwise you can figure out that position if you have good marks(which he lucked out of).
With the exhaust cam out completely you can still set TDC(timing belt is on), then put the exhaust cam back(and cam chain tensioner, of course) with the little notch up then count 16 rollers. More important than marks is TDC then 16 rollers(you can understand better if you have to put a new chain with no marks).
09-18-2014, 05:36 PM
2.7T Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement Problems
