2.8 cam chain and tensioner replacement
11-26-2014, 05:22 AM
#111
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11-26-2014, 09:04 AM
#112
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I think I'm going to use my tie wrap technic, I don't have patience to wait another 2 weeks for the tool to arrive.
I also have trouble finding a 1/4" torque wrench (5nm), I have one but it's too big. for some reason tool shops here only have the wrench in 1/2" and 3/8" I'm gonna try to look for it in bicycle shops.
11-26-2014, 09:52 AM
#113
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Sounds like you're talking about the size of the socket. You can use these adapters as long as you find or have a low end torque ratchet...
Duralast/Chrome vanadium steel adapter set 70-386 at AutoZone.com
Duralast/Chrome vanadium steel adapter set 70-386 at AutoZone.com
11-26-2014, 10:58 AM
#114
AudiWorld Super User
Sounds like you're talking about the size of the socket. You can use these adapters as long as you find or have a low end torque ratchet...
Duralast/Chrome vanadium steel adapter set 70-386 at AutoZone.com
Duralast/Chrome vanadium steel adapter set 70-386 at AutoZone.com
11-26-2014, 11:01 AM
#115
AudiWorld Super User
I found couple of pieces in there, I think the audi technician when he was doing his inspection took couple of pieces out as well, I'm pretty sure the rest got flushed in the pan.
I think I'm going to use my tie wrap technic, I don't have patience to wait another 2 weeks for the tool to arrive.
I also have trouble finding a 1/4" torque wrench (5nm), I have one but it's too big. for some reason tool shops here only have the wrench in 1/2" and 3/8" I'm gonna try to look for it in bicycle shops.
I think I'm going to use my tie wrap technic, I don't have patience to wait another 2 weeks for the tool to arrive.
I also have trouble finding a 1/4" torque wrench (5nm), I have one but it's too big. for some reason tool shops here only have the wrench in 1/2" and 3/8" I'm gonna try to look for it in bicycle shops.
Like most things, you get what you pay for. The clickers are expensive, the beam ones reasonable.
Park Tool Small Clicker Torque Wrench - Treads Bicycle Outfitters Aurora Lakewood Parker, Denver CO
Here's one site with a locator field for a bike shop that stocks them, it's also a lot less expensive:
Park Tool Co. » TW-1 : Torque Wrench : Torque Wrenches & Accessories
12-01-2014, 11:56 AM
#117
AudiWorld Member
Catching up on the conversation. I also had cracked my 1st plastic cam chain tensioner T tool. Bought 2 more & have never cracked the 2nd one. I think that proves SloopJohn theory! Some lessons-learned are 1) be sure the T-top seats on the tensioner surface & not on the chain, 2) take your time tightening it, & 3) don't over-torque it.
FYI, I changed the tensioner shoes on both my tensioners, when I was chasing my misfire issues.
So, now understanding that your tensioner shoes were damaged/missing, it's logical that intake cam timing would certainly be thrown off. I suggest you hold off getting replacement tensioners until you get eyes on the metal feet (it's what the shoes mount onto, in my lingo) of the old ones. The "plastic-like" shoes basically snap onto the feet, and act as a spacer & smooth guide for the cam chain. Just because the shoe broke, doesn't necessarily mean the tensioner itself is bad. The shoes get brittle with time & heat, & can break off. Once you get your tensioner off, you need to make sure the replacement shoes will securely snap on, & also that the metal feet still provide a support for the shoes. If the metal feet are chewed up from the chain contact, you'll want to remove any burrs, & will need to decide if the feet can still support the shoes.
FYI, I changed the tensioner shoes on both my tensioners, when I was chasing my misfire issues.
So, now understanding that your tensioner shoes were damaged/missing, it's logical that intake cam timing would certainly be thrown off. I suggest you hold off getting replacement tensioners until you get eyes on the metal feet (it's what the shoes mount onto, in my lingo) of the old ones. The "plastic-like" shoes basically snap onto the feet, and act as a spacer & smooth guide for the cam chain. Just because the shoe broke, doesn't necessarily mean the tensioner itself is bad. The shoes get brittle with time & heat, & can break off. Once you get your tensioner off, you need to make sure the replacement shoes will securely snap on, & also that the metal feet still provide a support for the shoes. If the metal feet are chewed up from the chain contact, you'll want to remove any burrs, & will need to decide if the feet can still support the shoes.
12-01-2014, 12:42 PM
#118
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Catching up on the conversation. I also had cracked my 1st plastic cam chain tensioner T tool. Bought 2 more & have never cracked the 2nd one. I think that proves SloopJohn theory! Some lessons-learned are 1) be sure the T-top seats on the tensioner surface & not on the chain, 2) take your time tightening it, & 3) don't over-torque it.
FYI, I changed the tensioner shoes on both my tensioners, when I was chasing my misfire issues.
So, now understanding that your tensioner shoes were damaged/missing, it's logical that intake cam timing would certainly be thrown off. I suggest you hold off getting replacement tensioners until you get eyes on the metal feet (it's what the shoes mount onto, in my lingo) of the old ones. The "plastic-like" shoes basically snap onto the feet, and act as a spacer & smooth guide for the cam chain. Just because the shoe broke, doesn't necessarily mean the tensioner itself is bad. The shoes get brittle with time & heat, & can break off. Once you get your tensioner off, you need to make sure the replacement shoes will securely snap on, & also that the metal feet still provide a support for the shoes. If the metal feet are chewed up from the chain contact, you'll want to remove any burrs, & will need to decide if the feet can still support the shoes.
FYI, I changed the tensioner shoes on both my tensioners, when I was chasing my misfire issues.
So, now understanding that your tensioner shoes were damaged/missing, it's logical that intake cam timing would certainly be thrown off. I suggest you hold off getting replacement tensioners until you get eyes on the metal feet (it's what the shoes mount onto, in my lingo) of the old ones. The "plastic-like" shoes basically snap onto the feet, and act as a spacer & smooth guide for the cam chain. Just because the shoe broke, doesn't necessarily mean the tensioner itself is bad. The shoes get brittle with time & heat, & can break off. Once you get your tensioner off, you need to make sure the replacement shoes will securely snap on, & also that the metal feet still provide a support for the shoes. If the metal feet are chewed up from the chain contact, you'll want to remove any burrs, & will need to decide if the feet can still support the shoes.
Now I have to figure out how to put it back together, It was very hard when I was trying for the first time before the tool broke, for some reason I cannot put the intake back in after putting the tensioner in it's place, and I cannot line my marked chain and sprockets!
It seems very odd! it seems like my chain shrunk?!!!!
We'll see what happens when I get my new tensioner tool.
12-01-2014, 01:03 PM
#119
AudiWorld Member
Need to have tensioner compressed when installing, to help keep chain slack so intake cam installs unloaded by the chain.
I also read of folks using zip ties during assembly, although I never tried it myself. Seems it hasn't worked for you.
An earlier post suggested you remove valve cover for both banks & check the exhaust cam notch alignment. Did you do this? AND are both exhaust cams' notches aligned with arrows? If you are going through the process of just lossening intake cams to remove the tensioners, just so you don't have to mess with the TB, it would be good to know if your TB alignment is on target. Otherwise, you may be fixing the TB later anyway.
I also read of folks using zip ties during assembly, although I never tried it myself. Seems it hasn't worked for you.
An earlier post suggested you remove valve cover for both banks & check the exhaust cam notch alignment. Did you do this? AND are both exhaust cams' notches aligned with arrows? If you are going through the process of just lossening intake cams to remove the tensioners, just so you don't have to mess with the TB, it would be good to know if your TB alignment is on target. Otherwise, you may be fixing the TB later anyway.
12-01-2014, 07:18 PM
#120
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I hate to brake it to you, but even with the tensioner tool it's a PITA to put the exhaust cam EDIT: INTAKE CAM back in. Again, it took me one hour to get it in and by the mark. I swung it around like a helicopter trying any possible angle 
I remember that I put the sproket side in first while the cam position side of cam was up(then forced it pass the inner timing belt cover).
If you look at one of the videos I linked, the 1.8T engine one, they don't actually show how the exhaust cam goes in because they spent too much time struggling No one wants to see the cussing and all that 
Blauparts shows a video of how both cams along with the tensioner and chain slide in like butter But they have the timing belt off.
Keep at it and you'll get it in
I remember that I put the sproket side in first while the cam position side of cam was up(then forced it pass the inner timing belt cover).If you look at one of the videos I linked, the 1.8T engine one, they don't actually show how the exhaust cam goes in because they spent too much time struggling
No one wants to see the cussing and all that Blauparts shows a video of how both cams along with the tensioner and chain slide in like butter
But they have the timing belt off. Keep at it and you'll get it in
Last edited by indoor; 12-02-2014 at 10:08 AM.