SloopJohnB@mac.com

This is the standard picture of the engine from the front:
Yes, vehicle left side is the driver's side in north america.

Moe1354

So it seems I have to take the driver's side cover off as well ...

I still have not had the chance to go any further with the work, I also have some trouble finding a 12 point 24mm socket, it is not a gage that all shops carry. Have to find it at an auto part shop.

indoor

I got my 12 point 24mm from Sears. I don't know if you have Sears in Canada(if I remember correctly you live in Canada).

I would go to a foreign car shop and ask to rent the timing belt tools for your engine. You would be better off if you put the lock pin in for TDC then to take the cover off the other side...though, it might help to see how the other cams line up(on driver's side)

Moe1354

We do have sears, but sears Canada does not have a great Tools selection, I have to buy it from specialized auto part shops.
Thanks for the advice, renting is an option as well, I did not think of that one ...

CRuby

15/16" worked fine for me on the crank pulley bolt. I agree you should pull cover on bank 2 to see other cams' alignment. It will help confirm timing marks align on that side, & you can do a visual check on the tensioner shoes. remeber, we still don't know if TB jumped a tooth or not. If it were me, I'd be changing the tensioner shoes on bank 2 also, since they likely aren't too far behind. But, sounds like you have your hands full getting bank 1 done correctly. Once you get bank 1 done, it's up to you whether you do bank 2 or not. Ain't broke - don't fix it, OR preventive maintainance.

Moe1354

From being a general contractor I'm gonna turn out as a Audi specialist after all this LOL .....

the_duke

Amazon.com is a great source for tools.

moe1355

Hi guys,

I’m back working on the car again … This time I will post pics step by step of the way in order to make sure I’m on the right track, so far I changed the intake half-moon seal, and both upper and lower tensioner pads, and put everything back in using the 3366 tool, I had marked the chain and the sprockets before taking the intake cam and the tensioner out, it was a bit difficult to put everything back in but I managed. (see pics attached).

As you know my issue was that:
-The top pad was broken in bank 1 and the lower pad was totally gone
- I did not put the car at TDC before taking the tensioner out, but I did mark the chain and the sprockets, the TB has always been in place, and I did not loosen the exhaust cam, therefore the TB never moved during replacing the tensioner.
-The notch on the intake of bank 1 aligned with the arrow but it did not on the exhaust

According CRuby and my markings I think I put the tensioner back in with proper chain spacing? Please confirm.

My next step now is to put the car in TDC, by turning the engine CW in order to have both bank 1 and 2 exhaust notches aligned, once that is done I should remove the intake cams and align its notch with the brg cap arrow with the right chain spacing of course … is this the right procedure?

I will post more pics once I have the car at TDC.

CRuby

Looks like chain roller count is correct BUTI still don't like the fact that the Intake cam notch is aligned while the Exhaust can notch is not aligned with the arrow. I think is the cams are properly clocked relative to each other, then either both cam marks align, w/ engine @ TDC, or both don't align w/ engine not @ TDC. You have one aligned (Intake), & one not (Exhaust). I think that means the cams are not timed (clocked) properly to each other. If you feel any resistance when turning crank to get to TDC, then you may have one (or both) cams misclocked relative to the pistons, so don't continue turning crank.

moe1355

Should it turn relatively easily, does it