2.8 cam chain and tensioner replacement
#261
AudiWorld Super User
Thanks for the instructions guys. I do have a compressor, I just need to get the hose connector for the sparks and to my compressor, I might even buy a leak down tester I think they are on sale at our local automotive shop.
I dough it but hope nothing is bent! Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
So I have to turn the crank 90 degrees for testing each other cylinder (except for cylinder 5) according to firing order, is there a mark for cylinder 1,2,3,4,6,7,8 to respect in order to make sure you are TDC, or is it simply 90 degrees turn, I guess the air pressure should be a good indication once I turn the crank in order to figure out it the cylinder is closed or not. Or is there a better technic?
I dough it but hope nothing is bent! Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
So I have to turn the crank 90 degrees for testing each other cylinder (except for cylinder 5) according to firing order, is there a mark for cylinder 1,2,3,4,6,7,8 to respect in order to make sure you are TDC, or is it simply 90 degrees turn, I guess the air pressure should be a good indication once I turn the crank in order to figure out it the cylinder is closed or not. Or is there a better technic?
#262
AudiWorld Member
No,there is not a mark for each cylinder TDC. In the old days we just got close with the 90degree turn and stuck a pencil or in this case I would use a long piece of coat hanger wire in the plug hole and tweaked the crankshaft until the wire was as far up and just before it started back down. You can ensure the #5 is on compression by sticking your finger in the hole and feeling the compression when you turn the crank, then stop at the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up.
Because at that point I don't think we can help you any more.
On the V6, the plugs are recessed in a plug well, & your fingers probably wouldn't reach down to the spark plug hole. But you get the idea. I've used wadded up newspaper to plug the well hole & it pops out when compression came up.
#263
Just make sure you don't get you finger stuck.
Because at that point I don't think we can help you any more.
On the V6, the plugs are recessed in a plug well, & your fingers probably wouldn't reach down to the spark plug hole. But you get the idea. I've used wadded up newspaper to plug the well hole & it pops out when compression came up.
Because at that point I don't think we can help you any more.
On the V6, the plugs are recessed in a plug well, & your fingers probably wouldn't reach down to the spark plug hole. But you get the idea. I've used wadded up newspaper to plug the well hole & it pops out when compression came up.
Thanks again.
#265
I did my complete belt kit for under $300. I ordered from Blauparts and rented the belt kit tools to make the job easier. One thing I found out is that the engine will run with 1 tooth out. The VagCom will show 22 degrees from the good shaft.
#266
Great thread, really a page turner. I came here to prep for a 30v 2.8 cam chain tensioner replacement tomorrow... and now I'm ready to fix anything!
#268
I'm glad this threat has been helpful for you guys, hope u'll have your issues solved and get your cars going again.
As for me I got really discouraged and left the car as is. I still have to verify if the valves are in fact bent or not. I don't want to invest in a leak down tester, so what I'm going to do is, I'm gonna ask my mechanic to take a look at it next time i'll go for a oil change on my other car.
Although still can't figure out why the FP does not supply gas once I crank the car, I don't see the relation between bent valve and gas supply?
I'm going to have the valves checked but I'm really leaning towards a system reset, I think the car's computer has shut down, in order to prevent further damage once the pad broke and the chain jumped and resulted in the intakes not being aligned .... but then again what do I know :0)
#269
Just so you know, when I started my wife's car that sat for 8 months I had to crank it for 10-15 minutes until it killed the battery. Then I charged up the battery and after another 5 minutes of cranking it started running running rough for another minute. The gas was old and wasn't firing up right. But the fuel pump was working the whole time and I actually smelled gas during the crank, yet none of it leaked out on the garage floor. That is somewhat 'normal' if the car sat for a long time. All the fluid lines are a bit clogged up or dry (depending where in the line you're looking, and gravity plays a part in it) not to mention that the oil was milky in color and texture. So I would change the oil first if I were you(which I did, before I started it).
#270
Just so you know, when I started my wife's car that sat for 8 months I had to crank it for 10-15 minutes until it killed the battery. Then I charged up the battery and after another 5 minutes of cranking it started running running rough for another minute. The gas was old and wasn't firing up right. But the fuel pump was working the whole time and I actually smelled gas during the crank, yet none of it leaked out on the garage floor. That is somewhat 'normal' if the car sat for a long time. All the fluid lines are a bit clogged up or dry (depending where in the line you're looking, and gravity plays a part in it) not to mention that the oil was milky in color and texture. So I would change the oil first if I were you(which I did, before I started it).
although when I charge the FP manually is does work and gas does come out of the line, I just don't get any gas when I crank it. That being said the gas has been sitting in the tank for the past 2 years, I'll give your advice a try and see what happens. The relay is ok, the fp fuse is ok, and the fp itself is functional as well, at this point I'm thinking maybe I should change the sparks as well, what do u think? but than again what would be the relation between sparks and fuel supply, even if the sparks are finished I should at leased smell the gas while I'm cranking it.