2.8 cam chain and tensioner replacement
11-22-2013, 04:24 AM
#21
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post pics .. i think you will be fine .. i would have ordered a timing belt though since you have to retension anyway ... i do understand your need for cost control but timing belt and water pump are dirt cheap .. anyway good luck ..
11-22-2013, 10:31 AM
#22
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http://www.europaparts.com/timing-chain-058109229b.html
It can be removed without taking off the rubber timing belt. You'd just need to remove all of the cam caps on the intake cam (attached to the cam tensioner) and then starting at the cam cap on the exhaust cam closest to the cam tensioner, start removing them working your way to the other end of the cam and leave two caps bolted down but loose to keep the belt from sliding off of the sprocket on the end of the cam. Some even zip tie the belt to the sprocket for added insurance.
EuropaParts is a good place to get the timing belt stuff when that time comes. There had been some bad parts from Blau in the past in their kits and some had to redo the whole job to fix coolant leaks. Just an FYI, as I was one of those that needed to do the job again.
11-23-2013, 05:55 AM
#23
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The chain for the cam tensioner is available as a seperate item:
http://www.europaparts.com/timing-chain-058109229b.html
It can be removed without taking off the rubber timing belt. You'd just need to remove all of the cam caps on the intake cam (attached to the cam tensioner) and then starting at the cam cap on the exhaust cam closest to the cam tensioner, start removing them working your way to the other end of the cam and leave two caps bolted down but loose to keep the belt from sliding off of the sprocket on the end of the cam. Some even zip tie the belt to the sprocket for added insurance.
EuropaParts is a good place to get the timing belt stuff when that time comes. There had been some bad parts from Blau in the past in their kits and some had to redo the whole job to fix coolant leaks. Just an FYI, as I was one of those that needed to do the job again.
http://www.europaparts.com/timing-chain-058109229b.html
It can be removed without taking off the rubber timing belt. You'd just need to remove all of the cam caps on the intake cam (attached to the cam tensioner) and then starting at the cam cap on the exhaust cam closest to the cam tensioner, start removing them working your way to the other end of the cam and leave two caps bolted down but loose to keep the belt from sliding off of the sprocket on the end of the cam. Some even zip tie the belt to the sprocket for added insurance.
EuropaParts is a good place to get the timing belt stuff when that time comes. There had been some bad parts from Blau in the past in their kits and some had to redo the whole job to fix coolant leaks. Just an FYI, as I was one of those that needed to do the job again.
By the way when he says cam caps he ie refering to the small semicicle "caps" that hold the cam down in place .. I think that would be a great aproach if you can find a good procedure . i think one of them even shows a pic of the number of chain links you need.
11-23-2013, 11:35 AM
#24
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So here it is in the service position. Took me about two hours. I still don't have a Bentley so I followed some pretty good instructions found on the site here.
Since I have the special tools I am going to go ahead and lock the cams and the crankshaft and remove the belt. I'm still debating whether or not to do the timing belt service, though. The full timing belt service was done by the dealer 43k miles ago in 2011. What is the recommended interval? The belt that is in there still looks to be in nice condition, no cracking. I know a timing belt interval is measured in mileage but does age factor into it at all? Would it be smart or wasteful to do it now?
I'm probably done for the day since I have a family commitment but I'm making a list of bits that I need and in the morning I'm going to head to one of the local junkyards that has an intact C5 A6.
Since I have the special tools I am going to go ahead and lock the cams and the crankshaft and remove the belt. I'm still debating whether or not to do the timing belt service, though. The full timing belt service was done by the dealer 43k miles ago in 2011. What is the recommended interval? The belt that is in there still looks to be in nice condition, no cracking. I know a timing belt interval is measured in mileage but does age factor into it at all? Would it be smart or wasteful to do it now?
I'm probably done for the day since I have a family commitment but I'm making a list of bits that I need and in the morning I'm going to head to one of the local junkyards that has an intact C5 A6.
11-23-2013, 12:24 PM
#25
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More detail photos.
OE water pump looks almost new (it was replaced two years ago along with the timing belt):
The timing belt also appears to be in good condition with no cracking:
I'm really leaning toward not doing a timing belt service. Tell me if this is crazy or dumb.
However, the front snub mount is trashed. How critical of a part is this? What is its function?
I haven't gotten into tearing things down but it appears that the special camshaft locking tool will go on once the fan clutch is removed. Assuming this is the case and I use some zip ties too it appears that maybe I won't have to remove the timing belt to get the cams out?
OE water pump looks almost new (it was replaced two years ago along with the timing belt):
The timing belt also appears to be in good condition with no cracking:
I'm really leaning toward not doing a timing belt service. Tell me if this is crazy or dumb.
However, the front snub mount is trashed. How critical of a part is this? What is its function?
I haven't gotten into tearing things down but it appears that the special camshaft locking tool will go on once the fan clutch is removed. Assuming this is the case and I use some zip ties too it appears that maybe I won't have to remove the timing belt to get the cams out?
11-24-2013, 02:38 PM
#27
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The snub mount is there to absorb and resist torque twist on acceleration as the engine will flex from the torque of acceleration . You should replace it.
11-25-2013, 06:33 PM
#28
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11-27-2013, 06:19 AM
#30
FWIW, I think t-belt job might be in your best interest here. Like I mentioned before, (I haven't done it) it is possible to replace the tensioner and/or cam chain without removing the cams completely. Anyway, I noticed oil on your t-belt and t-belt covers. This generally means that either one or all of these are leaking oil: Cam tension adj. gasket / valley seal (half-moon seal) / cam shaft seals. On the back, cam oil covers or caps.
If you got the tools and doing valve cover gaskets, you'd be really saving lot of work by just doing (properly) all these seals and avoid having to get to this point all over again at a later time. I think you can order the seals and gaskets separately from Blauparts.
When I looked at costs of individual parts before doing this on my 4.2, the kit is obviously less price all put together. But, if you just want to replace only the defective parts -you have to be the judge of this. The only thing I didn't use from my kit is the crankshaft seal. It wasn't leaking and I just didn't have a socket big enough to drive it in straight so, didn't risk it.
If you got the tools and doing valve cover gaskets, you'd be really saving lot of work by just doing (properly) all these seals and avoid having to get to this point all over again at a later time. I think you can order the seals and gaskets separately from Blauparts.
When I looked at costs of individual parts before doing this on my 4.2, the kit is obviously less price all put together. But, if you just want to replace only the defective parts -you have to be the judge of this. The only thing I didn't use from my kit is the crankshaft seal. It wasn't leaking and I just didn't have a socket big enough to drive it in straight so, didn't risk it.
