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Old 01-10-2014, 06:33 PM   #1
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Default 2.8L oil cooler gasket warning

I have a 2.8L 30v AHA engine, for many months I had noticed a very slow leak from the rubber O ring gasket behind the oil cooler. I tried tightening the oil cooler, didn't stop the leak. So I bought a new gasket, then winter arrived, so I put it off installing it until spring. Earlier this week, it was around 1F here in DC, so I went out and started the car to allow it to warm up, when I went back out to the car there was a HUGE POOL OF OIL under the car and the engine was clacking, I immediately shut down the engine. Turns out there was two complete breaks in the gasket and oil was shooting out like a fountain. It's all fixed now, but had I not come out when I did the engine would have been running with no oil and destroyed it. If you have a slow leak as I did I would replace that $6 gasket immediately. It is a b*tch to replace, that rear water hose connection is hard to get to.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #2
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Bummer.

Actually, it's easy to replace. You don't have to disconnect the hoses from the cooler. You can unscrew the pipe from the block. Adds an extra 15 minutes to an oil change.

I keep a few spares on the pegboard because they are such a common failure item, especially in the cold.
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:32 AM   #3
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wow, I didn't know that, yes that would have saved a lot of time on the job. What's the trick to removing the threaded pipe since the only nut I see on it is the one that secures the cooler? Is there another nut on the back side of the cooler against the block? I'll be keeping a spare now as well. it was like a fountain, there was so much oil on the ground that it must have been most of the oil in the engine, the valves were really clacking. That 2.8L takes a licking and keeps on ticking, I really thought I had internal damage. Once I put oil back in and let it warm up all the valve noises went away.
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:35 AM   #4
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Definitely lucky.

Once you take the nut off, slide the cooler away from the block. You should be able to open a 1/2 inch gap. Sneak into the gap with a small pair of channel locks, gab the pipe, and twist it loose. As soon as it breaks free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand.
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2005 A6 Sedan Q 3.2 (wife's whip)
2000 A4 Avant Q 2.8 (daily driver)
1980 VW Scirocco (mid-life crisis car)
1983 Mazda RX-7 (revolutionary sports car)
2003 Mini Cooper S (just because)
1995 Mazda Miata, Superdupercharged(anti-Audi)
1999 Mazda Miata SSB (track beotch, no plate)
2003 GMC Yukon Denali XL (the anti-earth)
2004 Dodge Dakota (hey, at least it's stick and 4x4)
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Driver4 View Post
Definitely lucky.

Once you take the nut off, slide the cooler away from the block. You should be able to open a 1/2 inch gap. Sneak into the gap with a small pair of channel locks, gab the pipe, and twist it loose. As soon as it breaks free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand.
thanks 4driver4, I really appreciate your quick responses and I know that your vast knowledge is well-respected here.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:34 AM   #6
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Your thread came up when I did a search as I had exactly the same thing happen to me this morning, except for the clacking.
Mine is a 96 A6 2.8 12V and temp this morning was -30 C.

The car started quite well actually but when I checked on it a few minutes later I heard a rythmic sucking sound and immediately shut it off. Big pool of oil under the car. I removed the belly pan and the oil is clearly coming from right above the oil filter housing.
I know this isn't the C4 forum, but would that indicate the oil cooler gasket on this car as well?
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:36 AM   #7
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Same thing.
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Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.

2005 A6 Sedan Q 3.2 (wife's whip)
2000 A4 Avant Q 2.8 (daily driver)
1980 VW Scirocco (mid-life crisis car)
1983 Mazda RX-7 (revolutionary sports car)
2003 Mini Cooper S (just because)
1995 Mazda Miata, Superdupercharged(anti-Audi)
1999 Mazda Miata SSB (track beotch, no plate)
2003 GMC Yukon Denali XL (the anti-earth)
2004 Dodge Dakota (hey, at least it's stick and 4x4)
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:44 AM   #8
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Thanks very much and I am relieved that it will be a relatively easy fix.
Sure not looking forward to doing it at the current temps though!
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:26 AM   #9
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Heard yhe best way to get it out is take out the nut the filter is connected to... im having the same issue only my audi died out when i was going outside i seen the pool of fluid checked the oil level it read min so im hoping the car died out to prevent vavle damage n not cause it already damaged them....
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werick View Post
Heard yhe best way to get it out is take out the nut the filter is connected to... im having the same issue only my audi died out when i was going outside i seen the pool of fluid checked the oil level it read min so im hoping the car died out to prevent vavle damage n not cause it already damaged them....
Read what 4D4 said…the nut gets taken off, the cooler adapter (the aluminum block between the oil filter mount and the engine) is slid back ½" or so, the threaded pipe is loosened and removed or moved back enough to get the old gasket out and the new gasket in, put the threaded pipe back into the block and tighten it a little, then slide the cooler adapter back onto the new gasket and put the nut back on the threaded rod and tighten the nut appropriately.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:55 AM
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2000, 2001, 28, 28l, a6, adapter, audi, cooler, gasket, leak, location, oil, removal, replace, replacement


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