Rusty105

OK this morning my car started running rough out of nowhere. I do have a blown flex pipe on Bank 2, so it does make some noise, and there are codes for 02 sensors, but I will get those fixed later. My main concern are codes P1522 and P1347.

The car is a 2001 A6 Avant with a 2.8L, about 195K. I bought it 2 years ago, it's probably due for timing belt

The codes
P1522 > Intake camshaft Control Bank 2 malfunction
P1347 > Camshaft Position Sensor 2 / Engine Speed Sensor Incor. Correl.

The P1347 didn't come up on the first scan, it did when I went to a different Autozone. (I had replaced the purge valve, I also had a P0441 code).

So what do i have? Is it just the cam sensor, or did the timing belt skip? I thought if the timing belt skips a tooth it usually does so at the crank, being the smallest sprocket. If that was the case would I not get a camshaft pos. sensor / Engine speed sensor code for both banks?

Rusty105

Is the P1522 code an indication of a bad sensor, or a bad cam chain tensioner?

Rusty105

OK, update

I changed the bank 2 intake camshaft position sensor. (What a pain)

I now have :
P1347 > Camshaft Position Sensor 2 / Engine Speed Sensor Incor. Correl.

P0300 > Multiple Misfire
P0304 > Cyl 4 misfire
P0306 > Cyl 6 misfile
P0305 > Cyl 5 misfire

Looks like I cleared the purge valve code, but I think my problem is more serious..... It looks like the timing jumped. Either at the timing belt, or inside the head at the timing chains arrgh

UNLESS someone has a different diagnosis.

Airbag

sounds like you are rolling your sleeves up , the biggest reason I think you have not just a sensor failure id=s you have actual performance issues. I would be getting that belt cover off and the VC gaskets, you may have a failed tensioner or chunks missing out of the belt, the teeth don't just "jump"

Rusty105

I know, usually 1 or more teeth are stripped out. I changed the sensor already, and still have performance issues. I am pricing out parts now.

Any good timing belt how-tos? This not my first timing belt, but my first Audi belt. I know I need the cam lock bar and crankshaft plug tool. anything else??

Obviously water pump, thermostat, but are there any other "while I'm in there" parts??

I have put on about 100 miles like this, but I am thinking it is time to park??

Airbag

I would inspect before buying anything. I bought An advanced kit at blauparts.
It comes with a great instructions. Too there is a diy here too

Rusty105

"Advanced kit"?

What should I inspect? The belt is due anyway

Prospeeder

Timing chain tensioner probably has failed and jammed in a strange position, or the solenoid doesnt close and keeps applying oil pressure to it, causing the cam timing to be off. I see this very rarely but a few times, they will run very badly and misfire on that bank. To replace it, you have to remove the timing belt anyway to remove the rear timing cover to get enough room. So you might as well do timing belt and waterpump and get the correct cam lock bar.

Airbag

they offer different kits . some with belt and water pump and coolant etc.
I got one with timing belt and water pump and t stat along with new tensioner and idler rollers also tensioner assembly. I also got cam seals and crank seal . although I did not do the crank seal as it seemed just too high risk. its a good weekend job if you have never done it before as it pretty well requires you to pull the front end off, that's how I did it anyway as it saved my back and I could take my time.

remember that is just the timing belt , then you have to deal with the chain tensioner issues , that's why I would say do an inspection before you start to see if you can find the smoking gun .


There have been some compalints of serpentine bely quality but I had no issues.

other vendors offer other kits so do some research .

CRuby

Agreed, Either one or the other. Both unlikely.
Another specialty tool you may need is the cam chain tensioner tool. Don't think you know yet whether you jumped a tooth on the TB or a tooth on the cam chain tensioner. If on chain tensioner, then you'll be needing the tensioner tool.
Prior to complete disassy, I suggest you confirm which went bad. Briefly, here's how I suggest checking.

• Pull bank 2 valve cover.
• Turn engine to get # cyl to TDC compression stroke. I'd pull the plugs to make it easier to turn crank so you don't fight engine compression (CW looking aft, DO NOT TURN CCW) . Install crank lock pin.
• Check if B2 Exh cam & Intake cam notches aligns dead center with bearing cap arrows (V).
• If Exh aligned, but Intake not, then cam chain tensioner likely jumped a tooth. TB goes to the Exh cam, so if Exh cam notch aligned, then TB likely not jumped. If Exh cam notch not aligned then likely TB jumped. If TB jumps a tooth or more, then both Exh & Intake will be off the mark.

I suggest checking this out before just assuming TB...because if not TB, then you'll be back in there again.
When you have VC off, another way to confirm if tensioner jumped a tooth is to count chain roller links between the intake & exh sprockets. There is one right way & lots of wrong ways to do the counting.
The pic I show in thread #1 is correct.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...-cams-2822284/

Oh, & if you conclude cam chain jumped, take a good look at the tensioner pads that the chain slides on. Make sure they are there & not damaged.