2001 A6 Avant 2.8L CEL code P1522 HELP!!
04-07-2016, 11:25 AM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Drivers side tensioner you have to remove the timing belt, sprocket, and rear timing cover on that side. If the pads broke I would do a chain for sure. The G12 coolant can be from Pink to Orange colored. I believe it even says on the back of the genuine Audi/VW jugs of it that the tint of the dye color may vary from bottle to bottle. Zerex claims that GMs Orange Dexcool is the same as the G12 stuff and is listed as compatible on the Dexcool jugs. I usually just buy genuine Audi/VW coolant, its really not much more, and is usually Pink, but I get one here and there that looks much more orange.
Last edited by Prospeeder; 04-07-2016 at 11:29 AM.
04-07-2016, 02:22 PM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
Not too bad; just remove the bearing caps and pick everything out.
Yep, 16 counting the first and last.
If I can't get the intake cam out first, how bad is it to pull all three, the two cams and the tensioner, then put all three back in together?? Other then time....
As for coolant, It had orange G12(? assuming G12 ?) And the timing kit I got from Blauparts has a purple coolant. I could always do what I did years ago, and once the coolant is hot open the drain on the radiator and keep filling the reserve with distilled (can't find de-ionized) until it runs clear, then add enough concentrate to make a 50/50 in the system. So how big is the cooling system on a 2.8?
*******
OK, did a little reading, G12 is not orange
Looks like I will buying a bunch of distilled water, and flushing
If I can't get the intake cam out first, how bad is it to pull all three, the two cams and the tensioner, then put all three back in together?? Other then time....
As for coolant, It had orange G12(? assuming G12 ?) And the timing kit I got from Blauparts has a purple coolant. I could always do what I did years ago, and once the coolant is hot open the drain on the radiator and keep filling the reserve with distilled (can't find de-ionized) until it runs clear, then add enough concentrate to make a 50/50 in the system. So how big is the cooling system on a 2.8?
*******
OK, did a little reading, G12 is not orange
Looks like I will buying a bunch of distilled water, and flushing
04-08-2016, 03:51 AM
#23
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, well the tensioner tool will not be here until Monday , and I HAVE to get this back together this weekend. Since I am going to pull both cams and the tensioner, is the compression tool really needed? Will the pistons push all the way out if nothing is keeping them in? Once out I can compress with a c-clamp and wire tie the pistons in the compressed position, so that should be ok. I am just not sure if the pistons will come out....
, and I HAVE to get this back together this weekend. Since I am going to pull both cams and the tensioner, is the compression tool really needed? Will the pistons push all the way out if nothing is keeping them in? Once out I can compress with a c-clamp and wire tie the pistons in the compressed position, so that should be ok. I am just not sure if the pistons will come out....
04-09-2016, 02:45 PM
#24
AudiWorld Member
Rusty,
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
Last edited by CRuby; 04-09-2016 at 02:50 PM.
04-09-2016, 02:55 PM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
Yes, you'd think there would be a market for a steel tensioner.
Rusty,
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
04-09-2016, 05:32 PM
#27
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rusty,
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
See my thread #10 for correct cam chain count. As Sloop says, it all depends on how you count the chain rollers. You'll hear 16,15,14, but it all depends on where you start counting & where you end. There is only one correct final position of the chain though. Be aware that alignment notch on PS intake cam is in different position than DS cam. As for whether you need the cam tensioner tool...I've only done it with tool. I've read that some folks tried using zip ties...but right tool for right job, IMO. I'm on my 3rd tool for just my one car. Crappy tool design results in plastic cracking in high stress concentration region.
On the positive side, it seems like you got to this just in time (pun intended). I've read that other folks had pads break & cam chain jumped several teeth, resulting in bent valves. Bad day for them. Be sure when you do TB, to pretension it & then remove crank lock pin, & turn crank CW (looking aft) 2x 360deg & then another 2 x 360 deg checking that both intake & exhaust cam sprocket notches align with bearing cap arrows. Took me a couple times to get the pretension routine correct. If correctly timed, after turning crank 2x, cam lock bar should drop straight into cam flange holes when crank lock pin hole aligns, & also notches would be dead center with arrows.
Which alignment notch on the cams are different? The little square notch? or the little triangle that points to the square notch?Well, I got the tensioner out without the tool. Not fun. I had to remove both camshafts, then pull all three out as a unit. One of the pads cracked while removing them, so it was not going to be long before that side failed as well.
Now getting all three back in was an adventure! I can not recommend trying it without the tool, but since my replacement tool didn't show up
I had to improvise. I really need to get this done. I took a piece of mig welding wire, about 2' long, folded in half, looped it around the top piston, just below the metal foot, wrap up and over the new nylon shoe so that the lose ends are heading to the screw hole for the tensioner tool. Thread the wire into the screw hole and while a second person holds the tensioner compressed, pull the wire tight and just loop back up to the top side of the tensioner, then wrapped it around itself just once, cut off the excess so you have about 2-3" of wire up from the screw hole.So now get the chains the right number of links apart, I used a "white out' to mark the chain and sprockets (and counted) it now took coordinating 4 hands to carry the assembly to the car and then thread the cams and tensioner to 'close to ' where they go. I say close because the tensioner is not fully compressed, so the cams are closer to each other than if you had the right tool.
So, now I had to get the exhaust cam bolted back in place, not easy as the #1 cylinder exhaust lobes are positioned to open the valves wide open. The cam does not want to stay like that. It either wants to rotate forward or backward, so I used the cam lock bar and a second pair of hands to stabilize the rotation as I brought the cam caps down, slowly! In the beginning only a 1/4 to 1/2 rotation of the bolts, as to not bind it up and snap something. I wasn't keeping track, but my brother said it took 45 minutes
So now with the ex cam in place it was time to get the int cam in place. BUT the tensioner is not completely collapsed, so at this point I had to cut the wire and let it expand. Once freed I had a second set of hands push the tensioner back down by hand as I manipulated the intake cam into a better position. Had to rotate it back and forth a bit to get the chain to set up right, and start putting the camshaft caps back on, slowly again.
Once the int cam is in, and caps just snugged I snugged down the tensioner.
And that is where I left it for the night. like I said, really can't recommend doing it without the tool. I still have to put the double cam caps back on and torque all the bolts. What is the tq setting anyway? I thought I read 14ft/lbs??
04-10-2016, 11:02 AM
#28
AudiWorld Member
Here are 2 pics I had for PS (Bank 1) cam chain placement, also showing the notch at Intake root. Note that this chain count of 16 rollers is also positioned correctly...again, different counts all depend on where you start & where you end the counting relative to the cam notches.
04-10-2016, 11:13 AM
#29
AudiWorld Super User
Looks good to me. I'd go with it.
The square notch on the PS Intake cam is positioned at a valley btwn sprocket teeth, while the DS Intake cam has notch at peak of a sprocket tooth. Again pic in #10 thread shows correct layout.
Here are 2 pics I had for PS (Bank 1) cam chain placement, also showing the notch at Intake root. Note that this chain count of 16 rollers is also positioned correctly...again, different counts all depend on where you start & where you end the counting relative to the cam notches.
Here are 2 pics I had for PS (Bank 1) cam chain placement, also showing the notch at Intake root. Note that this chain count of 16 rollers is also positioned correctly...again, different counts all depend on where you start & where you end the counting relative to the cam notches.
04-10-2016, 11:27 AM
#30
AudiWorld Super User
Don't forget to put a dab of sealer on the seal surfaces of end bearing caps!!!
I compared bank 2 to bank 1 and the counts were the same. Which alignment notch on the cams are different? The little square notch? or the little triangle that points to the square notch?
Well, I got the tensioner out without the tool. Not fun. I had to remove both camshafts, then pull all three out as a unit. One of the pads cracked while removing them, so it was not going to be long before that side failed as well.
Now getting all three back in was an adventure! I can not recommend trying it without the tool, but since my replacement tool didn't show up I had to improvise. I really need to get this done. I took a piece of mig welding wire, about 2' long, folded in half, looped it around the top piston, just below the metal foot, wrap up and over the new nylon shoe so that the lose ends are heading to the screw hole for the tensioner tool. Thread the wire into the screw hole and while a second person holds the tensioner compressed, pull the wire tight and just loop back up to the top side of the tensioner, then wrapped it around itself just once, cut off the excess so you have about 2-3" of wire up from the screw hole.
So now get the chains the right number of links apart, I used a "white out' to mark the chain and sprockets (and counted) it now took coordinating 4 hands to carry the assembly to the car and then thread the cams and tensioner to 'close to ' where they go. I say close because the tensioner is not fully compressed, so the cams are closer to each other than if you had the right tool.
So, now I had to get the exhaust cam bolted back in place, not easy as the #1 cylinder exhaust lobes are positioned to open the valves wide open. The cam does not want to stay like that. It either wants to rotate forward or backward, so I used the cam lock bar and a second pair of hands to stabilize the rotation as I brought the cam caps down, slowly! In the beginning only a 1/4 to 1/2 rotation of the bolts, as to not bind it up and snap something. I wasn't keeping track, but my brother said it took 45 minutes
So now with the ex cam in place it was time to get the int cam in place. BUT the tensioner is not completely collapsed, so at this point I had to cut the wire and let it expand. Once freed I had a second set of hands push the tensioner back down by hand as I manipulated the intake cam into a better position. Had to rotate it back and forth a bit to get the chain to set up right, and start putting the camshaft caps back on, slowly again.
Once the int cam is in, and caps just snugged I snugged down the tensioner.
And that is where I left it for the night. like I said, really can't recommend doing it without the tool. I still have to put the double cam caps back on and torque all the bolts. What is the tq setting anyway? I thought I read 14ft/lbs??
Which alignment notch on the cams are different? The little square notch? or the little triangle that points to the square notch?Well, I got the tensioner out without the tool. Not fun. I had to remove both camshafts, then pull all three out as a unit. One of the pads cracked while removing them, so it was not going to be long before that side failed as well.
Now getting all three back in was an adventure! I can not recommend trying it without the tool, but since my replacement tool didn't show up
I had to improvise. I really need to get this done. I took a piece of mig welding wire, about 2' long, folded in half, looped it around the top piston, just below the metal foot, wrap up and over the new nylon shoe so that the lose ends are heading to the screw hole for the tensioner tool. Thread the wire into the screw hole and while a second person holds the tensioner compressed, pull the wire tight and just loop back up to the top side of the tensioner, then wrapped it around itself just once, cut off the excess so you have about 2-3" of wire up from the screw hole.So now get the chains the right number of links apart, I used a "white out' to mark the chain and sprockets (and counted) it now took coordinating 4 hands to carry the assembly to the car and then thread the cams and tensioner to 'close to ' where they go. I say close because the tensioner is not fully compressed, so the cams are closer to each other than if you had the right tool.
So, now I had to get the exhaust cam bolted back in place, not easy as the #1 cylinder exhaust lobes are positioned to open the valves wide open. The cam does not want to stay like that. It either wants to rotate forward or backward, so I used the cam lock bar and a second pair of hands to stabilize the rotation as I brought the cam caps down, slowly! In the beginning only a 1/4 to 1/2 rotation of the bolts, as to not bind it up and snap something. I wasn't keeping track, but my brother said it took 45 minutes
So now with the ex cam in place it was time to get the int cam in place. BUT the tensioner is not completely collapsed, so at this point I had to cut the wire and let it expand. Once freed I had a second set of hands push the tensioner back down by hand as I manipulated the intake cam into a better position. Had to rotate it back and forth a bit to get the chain to set up right, and start putting the camshaft caps back on, slowly again.
Once the int cam is in, and caps just snugged I snugged down the tensioner.
And that is where I left it for the night. like I said, really can't recommend doing it without the tool. I still have to put the double cam caps back on and torque all the bolts. What is the tq setting anyway? I thought I read 14ft/lbs??
Torque is 14NM or 7ft lbs.
Caps 2-4 are used to bring the camshafts down/seated, alternately tighten, etc.
Then install #1 and #7 end bearing caps.
#1 is the double bearing cap, #7 is the cap next to the tensioner. You need to put sealant on the #1 and #7 caps as shown in the crosshatch below;
