2001 A6 sudden transmission problem code 17114
01-19-2012, 06:24 AM
#21
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New England, USA
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The shops hesitation is understandable. If the yard trans is no good you are on the hook for labor regardless and it's bad feelings all around. Not good for business.
Having said that nothing I've read says to me that this is the right shop for the job. Did they even pull the dipstick to see what the fluid looks like? Do they not have their own salvage sources they trust and can stand behind? Being an Audi specialist is great, but these guys sound like parts replacers more than experienced mechanics.
I read these threads with a certain trepidation though. I hauled a 1700# camper all over the place last summer with the Avant. I should probably just start a trans fund now to prepare
Having said that nothing I've read says to me that this is the right shop for the job. Did they even pull the dipstick to see what the fluid looks like? Do they not have their own salvage sources they trust and can stand behind? Being an Audi specialist is great, but these guys sound like parts replacers more than experienced mechanics.
I read these threads with a certain trepidation though. I hauled a 1700# camper all over the place last summer with the Avant. I should probably just start a trans fund now to prepare
I still have the car and still am debating what to do -- to repair or replace. It runs in Tiptronic mode, and works best if 1st gear is avoided. My son continues driving it to school. Against everyone's advice here (and Dad's), I had the fluid changed and that did not help. They said it looked "gross". They also told me all of it does not come out, but only about half. They said it was still worth a shot because if you take off the pan and see giant chunks of metal, you know more what you're up against.
This garage is a "white glove" shop, and I must admit, they are a little snobby. I started going there out of convenience -- they opened up a couple of years ago only a few blocks from my house. My original shop, which I still like a lot, is about 10 miles away. A lot less convenient. I am getting a quote from them for repair with both a salvage and a reconditioned unit. (My original shop also said they have seen fluid change make the problem worse.)
Someone else asked me, could this be a problem with the TORQUE CONVERTER? I read up on torque converters and symptoms and apart from a lack of noise, it sort-of fits. Is it possible to replace just the torque converter, or is it a piece of the transmission. The white glove shop said that to replace the transmission on this car, the engine needs to be pulled out, which is why the labor is expensive.
01-19-2012, 06:52 AM
#22
never trust a shop. add more fluid the right way. i suggest mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF fluid (no need for the german stuff, and mixing it will be ok) remove the fill plug (make sure you got a pan under or something to catch fluid) insert tube (you can get a hand pump thingy at like autozone or strauss that connects to the 1 quart bottles, (but sometimes it only takes half from the bottle, so you gotta do 2 bottles them fill 1 up with the other half from the other bottle, and so on)
run the car when its completely cool for around 4-5 minutes (if you have a vag cable just follow the directions, i think it was 40deg C, but if not I think it took about 4-5 minutes to reach the correct temp. Add fluid until it starts leaking, have someone in the car (engage hand brake AND HOLD brake pedal the whole time) go into each gear for 30 seconds (R N D 4 3 2, then back 30 seconds again- 2 3 4 D N R P) during the gear changes add fluid all the time except Reverse as fluid will come out the fill hole (actually have the person in the car only have it in reverse for like 15 seconds the first time and 5 seconds on the way back). then keep it in park for a like 1 more minute and put back the fill plug. your done... i did it twice to make sure, but in the end i didnt have to... you can go through all the gears a couple more times before driving and it should be better.
EDIT: Add fluid until it leaks while in Park, then add fluid during the gear changes only when it is not leaking, then add fluid when the gear changes are done (back in Park) until it leaks again, wait 1-2 minutes after it gets back into Park from the gear changes and put back the fill plug, even if its still dripping oil)
i wish i could tell you the shops are 100% honest and did everything correctly, but 95% of the time being honest and doing it correctly is not possible at a repair shop, (definitely not in nyc)
it can be the torque converter, but honestly after looking at them and how the transmission works they are VERY VERY strong, you gotta ABUSE the crap out of your car to damage them). the transmission can be removed with the car on a lift WITHOUT taking the engine out. WITHOUT A LIFT the engine needs to be removed. (I THINK it is easier to remove it WITH the engine, because its easier to get to the bolts, but at that point you SHOULD do other stuff, like change CAM caps and other little things (not expensive))))
run the car when its completely cool for around 4-5 minutes (if you have a vag cable just follow the directions, i think it was 40deg C, but if not I think it took about 4-5 minutes to reach the correct temp. Add fluid until it starts leaking, have someone in the car (engage hand brake AND HOLD brake pedal the whole time) go into each gear for 30 seconds (R N D 4 3 2, then back 30 seconds again- 2 3 4 D N R P) during the gear changes add fluid all the time except Reverse as fluid will come out the fill hole (actually have the person in the car only have it in reverse for like 15 seconds the first time and 5 seconds on the way back). then keep it in park for a like 1 more minute and put back the fill plug. your done... i did it twice to make sure, but in the end i didnt have to... you can go through all the gears a couple more times before driving and it should be better.
EDIT: Add fluid until it leaks while in Park, then add fluid during the gear changes only when it is not leaking, then add fluid when the gear changes are done (back in Park) until it leaks again, wait 1-2 minutes after it gets back into Park from the gear changes and put back the fill plug, even if its still dripping oil)
i wish i could tell you the shops are 100% honest and did everything correctly, but 95% of the time being honest and doing it correctly is not possible at a repair shop, (definitely not in nyc)
it can be the torque converter, but honestly after looking at them and how the transmission works they are VERY VERY strong, you gotta ABUSE the crap out of your car to damage them). the transmission can be removed with the car on a lift WITHOUT taking the engine out. WITHOUT A LIFT the engine needs to be removed. (I THINK it is easier to remove it WITH the engine, because its easier to get to the bolts, but at that point you SHOULD do other stuff, like change CAM caps and other little things (not expensive))))
Last edited by badinstincts; 01-19-2012 at 07:00 AM.
01-20-2012, 03:23 AM
#23
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New England, USA
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
never trust a shop. add more fluid the right way. i suggest mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF fluid (no need for the german stuff, and mixing it will be ok) remove the fill plug (make sure you got a pan under or something to catch fluid) insert tube (you can get a hand pump thingy at like autozone or strauss that connects to the 1 quart bottles, (but sometimes it only takes half from the bottle, so you gotta do 2 bottles them fill 1 up with the other half from the other bottle, and so on)
run the car when its completely cool for around 4-5 minutes (if you have a vag cable just follow the directions, i think it was 40deg C, but if not I think it took about 4-5 minutes to reach the correct temp. Add fluid until it starts leaking, have someone in the car (engage hand brake AND HOLD brake pedal the whole time) go into each gear for 30 seconds (R N D 4 3 2, then back 30 seconds again- 2 3 4 D N R P) during the gear changes add fluid all the time except Reverse as fluid will come out the fill hole (actually have the person in the car only have it in reverse for like 15 seconds the first time and 5 seconds on the way back). then keep it in park for a like 1 more minute and put back the fill plug. your done... i did it twice to make sure, but in the end i didnt have to... you can go through all the gears a couple more times before driving and it should be better.
EDIT: Add fluid until it leaks while in Park, then add fluid during the gear changes only when it is not leaking, then add fluid when the gear changes are done (back in Park) until it leaks again, wait 1-2 minutes after it gets back into Park from the gear changes and put back the fill plug, even if its still dripping oil)
i wish i could tell you the shops are 100% honest and did everything correctly, but 95% of the time being honest and doing it correctly is not possible at a repair shop, (definitely not in nyc)
it can be the torque converter, but honestly after looking at them and how the transmission works they are VERY VERY strong, you gotta ABUSE the crap out of your car to damage them). the transmission can be removed with the car on a lift WITHOUT taking the engine out. WITHOUT A LIFT the engine needs to be removed. (I THINK it is easier to remove it WITH the engine, because its easier to get to the bolts, but at that point you SHOULD do other stuff, like change CAM caps and other little things (not expensive))))
run the car when its completely cool for around 4-5 minutes (if you have a vag cable just follow the directions, i think it was 40deg C, but if not I think it took about 4-5 minutes to reach the correct temp. Add fluid until it starts leaking, have someone in the car (engage hand brake AND HOLD brake pedal the whole time) go into each gear for 30 seconds (R N D 4 3 2, then back 30 seconds again- 2 3 4 D N R P) during the gear changes add fluid all the time except Reverse as fluid will come out the fill hole (actually have the person in the car only have it in reverse for like 15 seconds the first time and 5 seconds on the way back). then keep it in park for a like 1 more minute and put back the fill plug. your done... i did it twice to make sure, but in the end i didnt have to... you can go through all the gears a couple more times before driving and it should be better.
EDIT: Add fluid until it leaks while in Park, then add fluid during the gear changes only when it is not leaking, then add fluid when the gear changes are done (back in Park) until it leaks again, wait 1-2 minutes after it gets back into Park from the gear changes and put back the fill plug, even if its still dripping oil)
i wish i could tell you the shops are 100% honest and did everything correctly, but 95% of the time being honest and doing it correctly is not possible at a repair shop, (definitely not in nyc)
it can be the torque converter, but honestly after looking at them and how the transmission works they are VERY VERY strong, you gotta ABUSE the crap out of your car to damage them). the transmission can be removed with the car on a lift WITHOUT taking the engine out. WITHOUT A LIFT the engine needs to be removed. (I THINK it is easier to remove it WITH the engine, because its easier to get to the bolts, but at that point you SHOULD do other stuff, like change CAM caps and other little things (not expensive))))
Got a repair estimate from my original (10 miles away) mechanic, thinking for sure he would come out lower than the white glove shop because his labor rates are lower, but he came out about $800 higher. The estimates are coming in equal to or greater than blue book value for the car. I'm thinking it's time to replace....
01-20-2012, 03:58 AM
#24
01-20-2012, 05:18 AM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went into this car knowing the trans could be a weak link and researched the prices on yard boxes before I bought the car. Honestly a low mileage yard trans is the only way I'd go.
I also have a HS buddy that owns a very sucessful wholesale only transmission shop. They do the work for the garages. He said buy a Volvo
Seriously he said it can easily be $4000 to rebuild an Audi trans and that a low mileage salvage box was really the only way to go.
As for me I need to put a trans cooler on it this year and then just wait and see. Everyone talked about how weak the 1.8T clutch was when I bought that car. I drove the **** out of it and at 185,000 miles it grabbed the same as it did from day one.
P.S. I had a full fluid and filter change done last year before I started towing at a pretty high end shop and it was $180 for parts and labor. I'll have to check the fluid this spring to see what it looks and smells like. That alone will be a good indication of how much I need the extra cooling. But we did pull it through everything from NYC rush hour traffic to mountain runs at 65+ MPH. The trailer pulls like crap from chassis fatigue but the car itself was great. When you got the load right you didn't even know it was behind you and it was really nice to have the Audi to drive around in once you got to your destination instead of a big truck.
I also have a HS buddy that owns a very sucessful wholesale only transmission shop. They do the work for the garages. He said buy a Volvo
Seriously he said it can easily be $4000 to rebuild an Audi trans and that a low mileage salvage box was really the only way to go.As for me I need to put a trans cooler on it this year and then just wait and see. Everyone talked about how weak the 1.8T clutch was when I bought that car. I drove the **** out of it and at 185,000 miles it grabbed the same as it did from day one.
P.S. I had a full fluid and filter change done last year before I started towing at a pretty high end shop and it was $180 for parts and labor. I'll have to check the fluid this spring to see what it looks and smells like. That alone will be a good indication of how much I need the extra cooling. But we did pull it through everything from NYC rush hour traffic to mountain runs at 65+ MPH. The trailer pulls like crap from chassis fatigue but the car itself was great. When you got the load right you didn't even know it was behind you and it was really nice to have the Audi to drive around in once you got to your destination instead of a big truck.
Last edited by Speedy72t; 01-20-2012 at 05:27 AM.
01-23-2012, 05:44 AM
#26
if anyone tells you to buy a volvo, they must be on crack, seriously.
yes i understood that you had the code BEFORE the fluid change and the problem is still there. But to be honest, i dont think many mechanics know exactly how to change the fluid in our cars, or are careless and do it wrong. Just try to make sure the fluid level is correct by doing what I told you, it wont take you long and it is cheap and most likely the solution to your problem.
yes i understood that you had the code BEFORE the fluid change and the problem is still there. But to be honest, i dont think many mechanics know exactly how to change the fluid in our cars, or are careless and do it wrong. Just try to make sure the fluid level is correct by doing what I told you, it wont take you long and it is cheap and most likely the solution to your problem.
01-23-2012, 06:43 AM
#27
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New England, USA
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if anyone tells you to buy a volvo, they must be on crack, seriously.
yes i understood that you had the code BEFORE the fluid change and the problem is still there. But to be honest, i dont think many mechanics know exactly how to change the fluid in our cars, or are careless and do it wrong. Just try to make sure the fluid level is correct by doing what I told you, it wont take you long and it is cheap and most likely the solution to your problem.
yes i understood that you had the code BEFORE the fluid change and the problem is still there. But to be honest, i dont think many mechanics know exactly how to change the fluid in our cars, or are careless and do it wrong. Just try to make sure the fluid level is correct by doing what I told you, it wont take you long and it is cheap and most likely the solution to your problem.
I've finally come to a decision -- I'm trading the car for an '06 A4 2.0T sedan with 41K miles. I wouldn't be surprised if the dealer I am buying from (also an enthusiast) is reading this thread, so maybe he can double-check that the fluid change was done properly. He's got a fully equipped garage with lift and all, whereas I don't! :-) He actually asked if a fluid change was attempted to try and correct the problem, so I don't feel like the garage was totally off-base in suggesting it. Maybe he'll have some luck fixing it!? Otherwise it is going to auction. (I don't think it is the fluid. It definitely goes into 1st gear with a delayed "thunk". It manages fine when driven gently in tiptronic mode, so at least is quite driveable.)
My other A4 is a '07 3.2L wagon. Hopefully they will get along well.
01-23-2012, 08:28 PM
#28
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
don't blame you for moving on.
as for the volvo. I've been driving Audi's since the early 80s and am a fan. But honestly they don't ride that well compared to the other German marques. And the suggestion for the Volvo XC was with the understanding that I would be towing and the fact that that car uses a standard GM trans that's solid and cheap.
as for the volvo. I've been driving Audi's since the early 80s and am a fan. But honestly they don't ride that well compared to the other German marques. And the suggestion for the Volvo XC was with the understanding that I would be towing and the fact that that car uses a standard GM trans that's solid and cheap.
01-25-2012, 05:56 PM
#30
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New England, USA
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In my experience, the rear wheel drive on BMWs is not ideal in snowy climates and requires snow tires. Not so for Quattro. Our '90 525i rode like a muscle car, and set off all the car alarms. But it was kind-of impressive that way.