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2001 Audi A6 2.7L Biturbo Quattro.

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Old 01-09-2014, 11:57 PM   #1
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Default 2001 Audi A6 2.7L Biturbo Quattro.

I want to upgrade this car. But idk what parts are recommended. Andi noticed that the turbos aren't Intercooled. So what's the easiest way to make sure they're not fried? And also there has to be a better way to idle them down then sitting In my car twiddling my thumbs for 5 minutes.
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:56 AM   #2
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I want to upgrade this car.
Install a factory sport suspension and change the ATF.


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Andi noticed that the turbos aren't Intercooled.
Yes they are.
You'd know if they were "fried". They aren't.

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So what's the easiest way to make sure they're not fried?
No piercing dentist drill sound, massive smoke, and zero power? Mo problem.


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And also there has to be a better way to idle them down then sitting In my car twiddling my thumbs for 5 minutes.
Take it easy the last five minutes of your drive. Make sure you are running good quality synthetic oil.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:31 AM   #3
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I want to upgrade this car. But idk what parts are recommended. Andi noticed that the turbos aren't Intercooled. So what's the easiest way to make sure they're not fried? And also there has to be a better way to idle them down then sitting In my car twiddling my thumbs for 5 minutes.
Did someone remove the intercoolers from your car?

Spend the next little while learning about your car, on this forum and other sources. Then you'll know what you want to do.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:18 AM   #4
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I've never had a nice car like this its all new to me. Thanks for the Intel. And along with the suspension and ATF is there a way to make this car push a lot more horsepower?
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:31 AM   #5
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There is/are, but the transmission is the weak point. It won't last with much more horsepower/torque. You'll have problems with torque converter ballooning if not simple known problems such as lockup function going away, basket failure (internal part), and worn clutches, often before 100K miles.

The best thing you can do for your nice new car is keep it tuned and serviced right, that includes getting the ATF and ATF filter changed (make sure to clean the pan and put the magnets back right) correctly.

It's bad enough that the value of the car is close to the cost of maintenance, i.e., if you have to pay for a TB service or probably thermostat failure between TB jobs (even with a new one at the last TB job), but installing a factory sport suspension could be more expensive than simply going with adjustable coilovers and new springs and H&R sway bars and links and bushings, that can run you $700-800 plus labor installing it..can generally be done yourself. With the lowered suspension you need to be careful with alignment..get it right, get the negative camber minimized and toe-in right or you'll have excessive tire wear.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:32 AM   #6
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Looks like you are "biting more than you can chew" at this point. No offense but, if you are saying turbos are not intercooled, I am inclined to think that you know very little about this car.

So, like any sound minded person would, try to learn as much about your car and its limitations. This is no hot rod and its aluminum block has its limits. Sure you can chip the car for few more horsepower etc. but like I said, you are trying to "bite more than you can chew".

Enjoy it stock for now, do maintenance properly (not just oil changes) and if you want a little more power, move up to higher octane gas. Seriously though, once this starts breaking down on you, it'll be quite frustrating!
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:09 PM   #7
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its aluminum block has its limits.
It's cast iron.
You are confused with the 4.2. ;-)
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1980 VW Scirocco (mid-life crisis car)
1983 Mazda RX-7 (revolutionary sports car)
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #8
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It's cast iron.
You are confused with the 4.2. ;-)
Well, I stand corrected. I only look through the grill of a 4.2, you see... .
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:47 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by pyrobionic View Post
I want to upgrade this car. But idk what parts are recommended. Andi noticed that the turbos aren't Intercooled. So what's the easiest way to make sure they're not fried? And also there has to be a better way to idle them down then sitting In my car twiddling my thumbs for 5 minutes.
Pyro, don't listen to these "experts" giving you "advice" here. 4Driver4 is actually a Chechnyian chemist that lives in my basement and SLOOPB is my neighbors kid. I have several parts to recommend: My old oil pan lower portion $50 w/ gasket chunks, and the elusive 3rd T30 Bolt (previously lost) for the headlight mount that i stepped on last night whilst barefoot and now must die - $3 plus s/h, My old diverter valves (if you don't know what these are, YOU NEED THEM NOW - $450 (the others may say you don't need them, but they are just losing their cut of the pie when they do), and several hose clamps that I got from the russian mob for owing them a favor later - $FREE!!!!!!…. if you do me one favor.

To make sure Turbos are operable just have one more drink after your post here and go out on the nearest well lit road with a Walmart on it and drive with your lights off. A 4am police pursuit is how i grasped the handling characteristics of a stolen milk truck, so it should work for an Audi. But i have been wrong before.

Ok, enough. GIAC or APR offer software for your vehicles computer to raise your HP. When you blow her up, gimme a heads up on what appears intact as far as parts (human or car). You could search your local area on craigslist for VAG-COM or ROSS-TECH and see if any slack jawed-mouth-breathers near you could hook up their computer and go for a spin for data collection. I bet if you drop him off before the Walmart thing, he wouldn't charge you much, if anything.

I'll be awaiting your response on the parts for sale.
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:04 AM   #10
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I've never had a nice car like this its all new to me. Thanks for the Intel. And along with the suspension and ATF is there a way to make this car push a lot more horsepower?

How much money do you want to spend?

For decent gains, buy a tune for your car. The tune spins your turbos higher generating more boost. You gain about 60 HP an 80 lbs-ft of torque.

You can also build the car with bigger turbos and engine work to handle 700 HP at the wheels.

You'll need to convert the car to a manual transmission for that.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:05 AM   #11
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In the end I'm expecting to spend about $8k in performance upgrades. A chip an exhaust and I better air filter. And then possibly a transmission overhaul.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:40 AM   #12
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In the end I'm expecting to spend about $8k in performance upgrades....
All these guys telling you to chip and upgrade exhaust; not required!
I'll make you an offer. Give me $6k and I'll get you a home-made but, well built jet engine! We'll mount it in the trunk. You won't really need the engine so, we'll just remove it and put in a bigger gas tank. You can use extra space for luggage or some high powered stereo system. Imagine the bass coming from the front.. all these people got it wrong, they put it in trunk..

All you need to do is upgrade the wheel bearings and that shouldn't cost more than a $1k at a reputable shop. You are saving $1k!

After you fire this thing up, there isn't a cop car in United States that can catch you! I guarantee it*!

*shipping/handling not included. Warranty will be void if found that you are not capable of evading cops. And/or, if your wheel bearings fail. Aerial assault not covered.
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No more OIL or COOLANT leaks! │ T-Belt, Water pump & Valve Covers DONE! │ Trans & Diff Fluid DONE! │ Bearing & Inner Tie-rod Next │ Steering leaks?
Fuel Banks 1 & 2 Lean issue fixed (finally!)
Rebuild Bosch 150 Amp Alternator (save major $$$)

Last edited by tester123; 01-11-2014 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:20 AM   #13
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In the end I'm expecting to spend about $8k in performance upgrades. A chip an exhaust and I better air filter. And then possibly a transmission overhaul.
Save a few grand for the unexpected stuff. It sucks blowing your wad on a stage upgrade only to be grounded by some silly mystery of a problem that you end up bringing in the heavies (dealership) on.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:02 AM   #14
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In the end I'm expecting to spend about $8k in performance upgrades. A chip an exhaust and I better air filter. And then possibly a transmission overhaul.
For serious power, consider swapping in a manual transmission as the first mod. Bryan from audis4parts.com sells a kit. He does installation as well but you'll have to ship the car over to him. That will run you about $4-$5K.

You can then upgrade turbos to K04 or Frankenturbos, larger intercoolers, and do a stage 3 build with about 500-550 horsepower at the crank.

This will take you close to $10K in total.

You can also sell your car and buy another A6 2.7T that already comes with a manual transmission.
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:53 AM   #15
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Pyro, don't listen to these "experts" giving you "advice" here. 4Driver4 is actually a Chechnyian chemist that lives in my basement and SLOOPB is my neighbors kid. I have several parts to recommend: My old oil pan lower portion $50 w/ gasket chunks, and the elusive 3rd T30 Bolt (previously lost) for the headlight mount that i stepped on last night whilst barefoot and now must die - $3 plus s/h, My old diverter valves (if you don't know what these are, YOU NEED THEM NOW - $450 (the others may say you don't need them, but they are just losing their cut of the pie when they do), and several hose clamps that I got from the russian mob for owing them a favor later - $FREE!!!!!!…. if you do me one favor.

To make sure Turbos are operable just have one more drink after your post here and go out on the nearest well lit road with a Walmart on it and drive with your lights off. A 4am police pursuit is how i grasped the handling characteristics of a stolen milk truck, so it should work for an Audi. But i have been wrong before.

Ok, enough. GIAC or APR offer software for your vehicles computer to raise your HP. When you blow her up, gimme a heads up on what appears intact as far as parts (human or car). You could search your local area on craigslist for VAG-COM or ROSS-TECH and see if any slack jawed-mouth-breathers near you could hook up their computer and go for a spin for data collection. I bet if you drop him off before the Walmart thing, he wouldn't charge you much, if anything.

I'll be awaiting your response on the parts for sale.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:24 PM   #16
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So does the triptronic make it easier or more difficult to swap the tranny to a manual?
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Old 01-11-2014, 01:53 PM   #17
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So does the triptronic make it easier or more difficult to swap the tranny to a manual?
Audis come either in manual or automatic (tiptronic) version. If it's not a manual, and you want some serious power, you want to swap a manual into it. There is a lot of labour involved, so it's not that simple, but still doable.

Would likely be cheaper to sell your tiptronic car and buy a manual A6.
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:48 AM   #18
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Forgive me; Every now and then, the inner child gets out... I was just joking about the jet engine (think about it though) .

Can you please let us know why you have picked this 2.7T to do all these changes? Was it handed to you? You found it? Why not look into a muscle car or something that can be tuned rather easily i.e. Camaro, mustang... that sort of thing? I know, work is work on any car but this car is more complex, has more moving parts and, they are expen$$$ive. If you are looking to have lot of power, trust me, there are other cars that can put the 2.7T in its place (no offense to any current owner(s)). Heck, I even beat a modded 2.7T once with my stock 4.2 running 94 octane. Don't know all the details; trying to talk to that driver @ 65mph is not so easy... in traffic (oh, those crazy days)... Anyway, I ask you again, why this car?

How many miles are on your car and out of curiosity, what's your age? I asked your age only because if you are going to work on it, you'll be spending quite a bit of time, and more, under your beloved car. So, with your priorities and all into consideration, are your ready for that sort of commitment?
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ʘ˥ Pearl White А6 Ч.2ℓ Quattro
Sport, cold, everything -Nav.
▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫▫
No more OIL or COOLANT leaks! │ T-Belt, Water pump & Valve Covers DONE! │ Trans & Diff Fluid DONE! │ Bearing & Inner Tie-rod Next │ Steering leaks?
Fuel Banks 1 & 2 Lean issue fixed (finally!)
Rebuild Bosch 150 Amp Alternator (save major $$$)

Last edited by tester123; 01-12-2014 at 02:58 AM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:40 AM   #19
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Forgive me; Every now and then, the inner child gets out... I was just joking about the jet engine (think about it though) .

Can you please let us know why you have picked this 2.7T to do all these changes? Was it handed to you? You found it? Why not look into a muscle car or something that can be tuned rather easily i.e. Camaro, mustang... that sort of thing? I know, work is work on any car but this car is more complex, has more moving parts and, they are expen$$$ive. If you are looking to have lot of power, trust me, there are other cars that can put the 2.7T in its place (no offense to any current owner(s)). Heck, I even beat a modded 2.7T once with my stock 4.2 running 94 octane. Don't know all the details; trying to talk to that driver @ 65mph is not so easy... in traffic (oh, those crazy days)... Anyway, I ask you again, why this car?

How many miles are on your car and out of curiosity, what's your age? I asked your age only because if you are going to work on it, you'll be spending quite a bit of time, and more, under your beloved car. So, with your priorities and all into consideration, are your ready for that sort of commitment?
No offence, I used to own a 4.2 A6 before, but the 2.7T with a manual is already faster than the 4.2 in stock form, no modding required. 2.7T auto is a hair slower, but with a stage 1 tune (which costs about $500-$600), will push the car to 320 HP and 340 TQ. Guys with stage 1 tune run high 13s in the 1/4 mi.

My Allroad is a heavy pig, but with stage 1 tune it traps 96 mph. The best trap speed I got out of my A6 was 94 mph. Clearly the Allroad has a better power to weight ratio, albeit minuscule.

Where the 4.2 really shines is the beautiful instantaneous torque of the V8, and at much lower RPM. It also pulls nicely on the highway as it revs.

In any case, neither mustang nor Camaro provide the utility of the A6. And to get it to deliver some serious power is not that bad, provided you start with the manual transmission.

The stock engine comes with 250 HP. It is a strong enough block to handle 550 HP on stock internals. Much more if you build it, though.

At the end, I would say it has high mod potential, fairly easy too. And it will trap 115-120 mph with stock internals. It is a pretty good platform for modding.

I had a Z28 Camaro, so I know those cars can be monsters with some minor work (swapping in cams, long tube headers, etc,) but at the end, it's not a family car.

I still think the OP is starting with the wrong car.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:24 AM   #20
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I got this car for a great price I've always wanted an Audi. And the cars is worth a lot more then I paid. I so when I found it I took it. Has 100k miles on it a full service record and no accidents on carfax. And the turbo is dinner to play with in my opinion. I had a 2.8 jetta manual. But the car just didn't have the physique this Audi does. And the jetta would not pick up like this ether no matter what I did to it. So basically I traded in my VW for its bigger brother.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:24 AM
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