2002 A6 4.2 rotor replacement
05-05-2016, 01:17 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
2002 A6 4.2 rotor replacement
Have any of you personally replaced your rotors? I am about to attempt to replace mine and I'm not sure how to unbolt the calipers from the carrier.
If you have a diagram that would help too. I don't have a Bentley manual.
If you have a diagram that would help too. I don't have a Bentley manual.
05-05-2016, 01:55 PM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Rotor replacement is very simple. Google the topic with the specifics of your vehicle included in the search criteria. Some of the hits will be YouTube that will show the operation. One tip to offer is to be sure to remove all corrosion and "gunk" from mating and contact surfaces. I used a wire wheel on a cordless drill when I did mine a few months back. Pay particular attention to the surface of the axle flange in the center of the rotor. If it is rusted or otherwise fouled it will not allow the rotor to seat flat and will cause the rotor to turn with a slight wobble. This will wear your new pads unevenly and cause a shimmy when braking. Tip #2: use heat resistant anti-seize lube on the caliper pins and areas where the pads slide to and fro. Just a light coating, nothing excessive. This will allow the pads and rotors to move freely and prevent corrosion. The previous owner of my car or his mechanic failed to follow these two tips and my front pads and rotors were trash in less than 10k miles.
05-05-2016, 04:44 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
It seems that with the A6 4.2 you cant remove the calipers without removing the carrier. You cant remove the rotors without removing the calipers.
The carrier bolts are 21mm and I can't get them to break loose.
The carrier bolts are 21mm and I can't get them to break loose.
05-05-2016, 06:04 PM
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
When I pulled mine I used an impact gun and the bolts spun right out. To do this you have to move a couple of things out of the way. I am guessing you are talking about the fronts? There is a small bracket that holds the electrical wires for the pad wear indicator, and some other things (brake line as I recall). Anyway, by carefully moving these things out of the way you should be able to get a socket on to the 21 mm bolts. I used a Craftsman 1/2" drive gun and a deep well socket as I recall. Once the bolts were out, I discovered that someone had apparently used a thread locker of some kind on the bolts. Either way, once stuff is out of your way the bolts should come out pretty easy. If time isn't too much of an issue, apply a bit of PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil to the bolts and let them sit overnight. Don't know if it helps but couldn't hurt. My car is an '04 Quattro 4.2, so basically the same. Again, check Google and look at a couple of YouTube videos on the matter. Also the 21mm bolts will allow you to remove the entire assembly.
Last edited by Harleyguy; 05-05-2016 at 06:08 PM.
05-05-2016, 06:25 PM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
#5 is ribbed bolt, #4 is ribbed washer. Clean ribs if reusing.
Torque spec is 190NM.
05-06-2016, 08:06 AM
#6
To remove the rotors, you do not have to remove the caliper completely. I only remove the bottom bolt and just loosen the top bolt. You can then rotate the caliper upward and sneak the rotor out.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
05-06-2016, 09:09 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
To remove the rotors, you do not have to remove the caliper completely. I only remove the bottom bolt and just loosen the top bolt. You can then rotate the caliper upward and sneak the rotor out.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
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05-06-2016, 10:23 AM
#8
AudiWorld Senior Member
As johnkk said, it is possible to sneak the rotor out without completely removing the caliper. With the pistons fully retracted there is almost enough room to slip a new rotor into place. It doesn't miss by much. I didn't find it particularly difficult to get the bolts restarted. Since the pads can be dropped in from the top, remount the caliper with the new rotor in place, then drop in the new pads. Once again, go to Google and pull up some videos and photos to help yourself out. The part that you refer to in between the pads is not solid. It telescopes a bit which allows the caliper to float as brakes are applied and released.
05-06-2016, 10:51 AM
#9
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
As johnkk said, it is possible to sneak the rotor out without completely removing the caliper. With the pistons fully retracted there is almost enough room to slip a new rotor into place. It doesn't miss by much. I didn't find it particularly difficult to get the bolts restarted. Since the pads can be dropped in from the top, remount the caliper with the new rotor in place, then drop in the new pads. Once again, go to Google and pull up some videos and photos to help yourself out. The part that you refer to in between the pads is not solid. It telescopes a bit which allows the caliper to float as brakes are applied and released.
That center piece that I referred to in the diagram is solid, it is part of the carrier and does not move. The caliper, on the other hand does move.
05-06-2016, 10:53 AM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
To remove the rotors, you do not have to remove the caliper completely. I only remove the bottom bolt and just loosen the top bolt. You can then rotate the caliper upward and sneak the rotor out.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.