2002 A6 4.2 rotor replacement
#11
FYI I have had better luck with Zimmerman rotors. Seem to resist uneven pad buildup longer and don't need frequent bedding.
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
Autohausaz.com has a good selection of parts with reasonable pricing and a shipping deal currently in effect. Looks like you are in Arizona, maybe. There are several rotor options that were used so you will need either the part # from the old rotors or to take measurements (diameter, rotor overall height, thickness ) The Lucas/ Girling caliper set-up was used on several models over the years, generally on the heavier and performance oriented models. No offense intended but I don't really understand your difficulty here, even though Audi's can be a little different to work on. I had never done this job on this model before and it took 45 minutes per side, start to finish. That includes time on rust removal and general clean up of the assemblies. Didn't have a shop either. Floor jack and jack-stands, air compressor, impact gun and hand tools.Used a cordless drill with a wire wheel to speed up rust removal.
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Ouch. I don't use 12pt sockets anymore.
To remove the rotors, you do not have to remove the caliper completely. I only remove the bottom bolt and just loosen the top bolt. You can then rotate the caliper upward and sneak the rotor out.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.
The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
#14
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well this turned into a total cluster....
I could not break loose the 21mm bolts on the carrier. I tried impact wrench, I tried breaker-bar with hand sledge. Nada!!!
I called my friend Bruce who owns Arctic Imports and specializes in Audis. He owns a 2003 RS6. He said that it is not unusual that these bolts are quite stubborn.
I took the car to his shop on Saturday. He called me earlier today to tell me it took heating the bolts with a torch and an air chisel to get them out. They were corroded in place. Now I don't feel so bad for not being able to break them loose.
I could not break loose the 21mm bolts on the carrier. I tried impact wrench, I tried breaker-bar with hand sledge. Nada!!!
I called my friend Bruce who owns Arctic Imports and specializes in Audis. He owns a 2003 RS6. He said that it is not unusual that these bolts are quite stubborn.
I took the car to his shop on Saturday. He called me earlier today to tell me it took heating the bolts with a torch and an air chisel to get them out. They were corroded in place. Now I don't feel so bad for not being able to break them loose.
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