A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

2002 A6 4.2 rotor replacement

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Old 05-06-2016, 12:30 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by TFT
Do you have the same 4 pad caliper set up as shown in the diagram above? This seems to be unique for the early 4.2's and the RS6.
Yes. My01 2.7 w manual trans has the same HP 4 pad calipers. C5 S4's have these HP front brakes, too.

FYI I have had better luck with Zimmerman rotors. Seem to resist uneven pad buildup longer and don't need frequent bedding.
Old 05-06-2016, 02:44 PM
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Autohausaz.com has a good selection of parts with reasonable pricing and a shipping deal currently in effect. Looks like you are in Arizona, maybe. There are several rotor options that were used so you will need either the part # from the old rotors or to take measurements (diameter, rotor overall height, thickness ) The Lucas/ Girling caliper set-up was used on several models over the years, generally on the heavier and performance oriented models. No offense intended but I don't really understand your difficulty here, even though Audi's can be a little different to work on. I had never done this job on this model before and it took 45 minutes per side, start to finish. That includes time on rust removal and general clean up of the assemblies. Didn't have a shop either. Floor jack and jack-stands, air compressor, impact gun and hand tools.Used a cordless drill with a wire wheel to speed up rust removal.
Old 05-06-2016, 02:55 PM
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Default Ouch. I don't use 12pt sockets anymore.

Originally Posted by johnkk
To remove the rotors, you do not have to remove the caliper completely. I only remove the bottom bolt and just loosen the top bolt. You can then rotate the caliper upward and sneak the rotor out.

The reason I don't remove the caliper completely is that it's hard to get the first bolt back in when reinstalling. I have spent more time trying to get the holes lined up and the first bolt back in than the whole rest of the job. You can't see and it's awkward.

The bolts are tight and I usually need a section of pipe on my breaker bar to crack them open. Turn the steering to get the wheel in a position to best get at the bolts. I also use an impact socket, since I have split a regular 12 pt in the past. Not fun when a socket breaks. Wear gloves.
Also, look for the flank-drive or similar six point sockets. Much stronger than edge-hold. These refer to a 6 point socket design whereby the corners of the socket are recessed to force the socket to drive on the flats of the fastener. The purpose is to avoid rounding the fastener head as with driving on the corners. Although this concept is practically industry standard, manufacturers still use their own trademarked terminology. Some sockets don't have the corners recessed, rather they use a curved flank that grips the sides of the bolt head rather than the sharp edge. Here is a pic of a wall drive (trademark).
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:19 PM
  #14  
TFT
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Well this turned into a total cluster....
I could not break loose the 21mm bolts on the carrier. I tried impact wrench, I tried breaker-bar with hand sledge. Nada!!!
I called my friend Bruce who owns Arctic Imports and specializes in Audis. He owns a 2003 RS6. He said that it is not unusual that these bolts are quite stubborn.
I took the car to his shop on Saturday. He called me earlier today to tell me it took heating the bolts with a torch and an air chisel to get them out. They were corroded in place. Now I don't feel so bad for not being able to break them loose.
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