jcman

Ok this says it all unfortunately.

xdewaynex

That made my eyes hurt reading that, lol. So the window on the flex plate does need to line up?

jcman

I'm trying to pdf that page so you can read it or you can copy paste this one to your desktop to zoom it.

jcman

Here it is

xdewaynex

Thanks for that. Definitely worth checking out if its misaligned. After all this searching, its weird today is the first day Ive come across this.

jcman

Hey no problem, well that just plain out sucks in my book.

So then the procedure should be to put the crank locking pin in and position the flywheel gap at the sensor's position.

jcman

Here is that one if it helps.
Good Luck!

xdewaynex

Well I finally got time to get the motor and trans out, separate the 2 and found that the flex plate was 180* out. My problem now is that I thought the window of the flex plate would line up with the crank sensor straight up, but in order to bolt it up, its either above the sensor or below. Would you happen to know where exactly it needs to be?

jcman

Use a crank lock bolt and take a look, I'm sure that would be the only logical way of knowing were dead center #1 is because you really can't go on the damper timing marks.

xdewaynex

I should have mentioned the crank lock pin is in place. I removed the cylinder 3 spark plug, inserted a long extension and watched it raise up as I rotated the crank. Watch for the timing mark on the dampener and looked for the hole in the crank for the pin and everything is lined up.

Here are 2 picks of kind of whats going on at the moment.

Here you can kind of see the window on the flex plate sitting right above the dowel for the trans...



Here it is from a side view.



Now if I were to remove the bolts and rotate the plate counter clockwise to where the bolt holes realign, the window would be below the crank sensor.

My dad was saying to him it seems it sitting right above the dowel would be fine, as when you try to crank, it would move right past the crank sensor as soon as you cranked it.