99 C5 A6 Avant, power windows move 2-3 iches at a time
#11
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The "moving very slowly until stopping, then coming down a bit" ? Or, the "moving a few inches in seemingly normal speed, then stopping right there" ?
I've ordered up a set of those plastic slider bits (with metal slider part) for the front doors, as reading around seems to indicate these are a common failure point. Honestly though I hope I can get by by just lubing up the guide rails, as I don't have an indoor place to work and weather isn't much accomodating these days.
Any tips where to get my hand on these plastic slider guides, for the rear doors?
I've ordered up a set of those plastic slider bits (with metal slider part) for the front doors, as reading around seems to indicate these are a common failure point. Honestly though I hope I can get by by just lubing up the guide rails, as I don't have an indoor place to work and weather isn't much accomodating these days.
Any tips where to get my hand on these plastic slider guides, for the rear doors?
#12
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At least check the cost vs a new window lifter assembly.
#13
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Given that some strong indications here point towards the guides/gliders, I have a set (front doors) coming and I have to pay-per-hour for heated indoor work time (-10 celsius, ice, snow etc outside)... I'll wait until the guides arrive. They might be ok, but as long as they're 'coming', better to have them at hand when dismantlig. Having had this (most enjoyable) ride for about 2 weeks, I've realized there might be some electronic gremlins at work(?).
The front passenger door - obviously physical hinderance. Goes down with ease, the window tilts and moves very slowly when lifting, and hands-on force is needed to get it closed again. If we don't time it right (resistance vs pulling), it will go down a fair bit again (proving the "pinch safe" works). For both driver side doors, it moves snappy, even - but still just ~2 inches at a time, and stops dead. No tilt, no sticking - it behaves like it was "instructed" to travel that interval.
Coolant indicator (instrument panel) stays bottomed (oil temp seem to be working, ~90-95ish (celsius, 2.4V6 AGA) for easy-going town traffic (sub freezing outside). Heater seems to work fine, and I believe I heard the radiator fan kick in today after 20-30 min during rush stand-still, so actual coolant temperature should hopefully be healthy. Fuel gauge also might be stuck near full. Might be a misconception, but a friend filled it "to the brim" first time I filled it. Unless a C5 quattro avant takes 15 liters in top and filler pipe, the quage is really off.
Also, rear hatch lock from fob not working on any "key". Any known common grund, reset or failure point that is known to cause this/similar bahavior? (Comfort window open/close by lock fob works - albeit only on passenger side. Both windows driver side still behaves as described previously, and passenger front will stop snd retaliate unless forced).
Previous owner delegated oil, plugs and filter service to a private party. Might be (likely) they disconnected the battery. Could this be related? Is there some kind of re-initiation process in such case? I cleared the insp/oil indication and tried the "hold at top/closed" thing for the driver side windows as per the manual.
And yes. I'm off on a rant. I'd rather cover base(es) than fuel misunderstandings. And its late. Very late. Vag-Com is on its way. I really appreciate all of your answers here. I've always been a forum contributer, but we all have to start somewhere when it comes to new things.
The front passenger door - obviously physical hinderance. Goes down with ease, the window tilts and moves very slowly when lifting, and hands-on force is needed to get it closed again. If we don't time it right (resistance vs pulling), it will go down a fair bit again (proving the "pinch safe" works). For both driver side doors, it moves snappy, even - but still just ~2 inches at a time, and stops dead. No tilt, no sticking - it behaves like it was "instructed" to travel that interval.
Coolant indicator (instrument panel) stays bottomed (oil temp seem to be working, ~90-95ish (celsius, 2.4V6 AGA) for easy-going town traffic (sub freezing outside). Heater seems to work fine, and I believe I heard the radiator fan kick in today after 20-30 min during rush stand-still, so actual coolant temperature should hopefully be healthy. Fuel gauge also might be stuck near full. Might be a misconception, but a friend filled it "to the brim" first time I filled it. Unless a C5 quattro avant takes 15 liters in top and filler pipe, the quage is really off.
Also, rear hatch lock from fob not working on any "key". Any known common grund, reset or failure point that is known to cause this/similar bahavior? (Comfort window open/close by lock fob works - albeit only on passenger side. Both windows driver side still behaves as described previously, and passenger front will stop snd retaliate unless forced).
Previous owner delegated oil, plugs and filter service to a private party. Might be (likely) they disconnected the battery. Could this be related? Is there some kind of re-initiation process in such case? I cleared the insp/oil indication and tried the "hold at top/closed" thing for the driver side windows as per the manual.
And yes. I'm off on a rant. I'd rather cover base(es) than fuel misunderstandings. And its late. Very late. Vag-Com is on its way. I really appreciate all of your answers here. I've always been a forum contributer, but we all have to start somewhere when it comes to new things.
Last edited by pr0xZen; 12-13-2014 at 07:19 PM.
#14
My C5 had VERY SAME issues as yours. It's a 1997 model so 17 years old now. For the driver side I had to replace the whole frame because lubricating, changing the guides and trying another motor did not solve the problem. Found a 2003 model one at a very cheap price. For the passenger side front and back, the windows operate normally sometimes and sometimes not. I'm thinking about lubricating them. I'll probably damage the system if I keep using them like that. I'll let you know what I get.
#15
AudiWorld Senior Member
I would be careful about continuing to operate the window motors until you have determined what the issue is. Recently had the window clips break on my son's A4. He and friends continued to operate the window using the pull or push on the window while operating the window switch. This caused the cable that operates the window to get wound up and bound up inside the mechanism which then necessitated replacing the whole mechanism. The clips were only $10 but the mechanism was about $100.
The remote button for the rear hatch operates a little differently than the door lock/unlock. You need to hold the trunk unlock for a few seconds for it to operate. The other buttons are instant.
The remote button for the rear hatch operates a little differently than the door lock/unlock. You need to hold the trunk unlock for a few seconds for it to operate. The other buttons are instant.
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Ah, well I'll be trying that the next time I'm heading out then (rear hatch)
Got the steel-reinforced glider set for the front doors in the mail today. The listing said 4 gliders, but I recieved 2 (4 pieces in total with the retaining clips). I'm not quite sure I want to tackle this job without having a set for both doors ready at hand. Weather is getting worse everyday, so might be a little while.
I try to mostly leave the windows alone - although with the seemingly normal/healthy travel (but weird 2-inches-at-a-time operation), I feel the driver side windows can be operated if really needed. But the passenger front window, moving slowly, tilting and engaging the pinch safety - that one I'm leaving alone, so that I might get away with changing just the gliders. That one is clearly having some kind of friction issue. Both driver sides though, while getting prepared to change the guides and lube up (and if necessary, the regulator) - really looks like an electronic issue.
Got the steel-reinforced glider set for the front doors in the mail today. The listing said 4 gliders, but I recieved 2 (4 pieces in total with the retaining clips). I'm not quite sure I want to tackle this job without having a set for both doors ready at hand. Weather is getting worse everyday, so might be a little while.
I try to mostly leave the windows alone - although with the seemingly normal/healthy travel (but weird 2-inches-at-a-time operation), I feel the driver side windows can be operated if really needed. But the passenger front window, moving slowly, tilting and engaging the pinch safety - that one I'm leaving alone, so that I might get away with changing just the gliders. That one is clearly having some kind of friction issue. Both driver sides though, while getting prepared to change the guides and lube up (and if necessary, the regulator) - really looks like an electronic issue.
#17
AudiWorld Senior Member
Replacing the window glides, regulator, clips and such are really not that difficult if you are a do it yourselfer. Pretty straight forward. Just take your time and have the correct parts and tools. There are many tutorials on youtube and elsewhere. I took the interior door panel or card off (takes only a few screws and less than 5 minutes) to get oriented with what was required. I temporarily taped the glides to hold the window closed and disconnected the power. This could be done outdoors on a warmer day since it is pretty quick and easy. Then you can take photos of everything and plan your trip to a heated garage. The actual replacing of the glides and regulator might take an hour or so the first time assuming you have the correct parts and tools.
#18
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Replacing the window glides, regulator, clips and such are really not that difficult if you are a do it yourselfer. Pretty straight forward. Just take your time and have the correct parts and tools. There are many tutorials on youtube and elsewhere. I took the interior door panel or card off (takes only a few screws and less than 5 minutes) to get oriented with what was required. I temporarily taped the glides to hold the window closed and disconnected the power. This could be done outdoors on a warmer day since it is pretty quick and easy. Then you can take photos of everything and plan your trip to a heated garage. The actual replacing of the glides and regulator might take an hour or so the first time assuming you have the correct parts and tools.
#19
Don't worry. It's easy as long as you have the appropriate tools and the correct procedure.
Just take it easy and take your time and it will be a piece of cake.
Just take it easy and take your time and it will be a piece of cake.
#20
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Quick quiz - if it happened to be an electric/electronic issue going on with the driver side windows - would I be able to pick that up with vag-com?