pr0xZen

So winter have been harsh, and other issues with this car has had me put the windows on hold. Not sure if its a "evolved" issue, or the sympthoms were just masked by other things. I haven't changed the pass. front guides, so leaving that alone, waiting for better weather.

Either way - all windows now move smoothly - but they move ~2-3 inches then stop (either direction). No indication of sticking, overworking, tilting or otherwise. Doesn't matter if I push/pull at the driver door master or at that particular door - same if I do it rapidly or hold. E.g. opening / closing the front windows takes 7-8 pulls/pushes.

No codes with VCDS.

I'm starting to suspect the Central locking / CCM has gotten flooded. Drains under battery was clogged so I had a significant ingush through the cabin filter (seal is good). Mounting brackets for the window water deflector is broken and gone, so any rain goes straight down the filter. Quite sure this wasn't the first time water ingress have happened to this car, the plant gung in the rubber bungs was pretty much turned to soil.

So if it turns out I need a new CCM - is the exact part number (VCDS reports 4B0 962 258 E) close enough to source a spare, or do any other sub-markings need to match, too?

blink

I replaced the guides on both of my front doors (2 per side). It took about a half hour on each side to complete. If you pull the entire window frame out to do it, mark the location of the shims at the bolts. Also, lube everything while it's out.

pr0xZen

The guides on the front passenger window are shot, easily identified by the hard-working slow movement and the fact that the window harsly tilts when it starts travel up/down. I have the new guides, and have read well up on instructions and essensials (like marking the mountings) on the job.

My worry and frustration is with the electric windows overall, as all 4 of them (likely, the broken guides on pass front is masking the behavior there) travel ~2-3 inches with ease, but then abruptly stop. Re-engaging them gives another 2-3 inches, then the same abrupt stop. No sign of slow movement, overworked motor - it just stops like "it was supposed to do that".

Its worth mentioning, this behavior is the same wether the windows are operated by the driver master switch, or by the respective doors switch.

pr0xZen

Replying to myself to cover progress;

Pulled the seats and lifted the carpet, a little moisture but not wet. CCM was under the carpet on the driver side (LHD) - always heard "passenger side" ..(?) Wiring harnesses looks good visually, rear washer fluid pipe (black hose actually) also intact.

Took out the CCM. Box and module bone dry, contacts looks good. Opened the CCM module and checked the circuit board and components - no sign of moisture, shorts, burnouts etc. As seats are out and carpet is up, figured I could always give it a few days to dry with dehumidifier as a precaution. And as the car can't be used anyway, I immersed the CCM circuitboard in silica gel, will let it stay there for a few days while dehumidifer does it work.

Not quite sure where to look next. Any relays for the power windows?

jcman

pr0xZen, friend you worry too much.

Take this advice for what it's worth, change the window guides first before you assume all these other possible problems that 99% of the time don't exist with this issue.

I had the same issue on a 01 and changed the plastic guides hence no problems, primitive simple approach with positive results.

The motors will sense a bind like a hand or what ever and stop for safety, it's how they are designed. So if the widow clips are worn-out that can create the same effect, that's not even a question to be asked it's a fact on all cars with power windows.

pr0xZen

I do agree, I probably worry too much. But there are things here that point to mechanical hinderance / blockage not being the issue in this case. Like I stuck my arm in the window to test how the "pinch safety" work on this car, and as with all other cars I've worked on - it stops, then retracts. This is not the case here. The guide is broken on the front passenger door, and if I do operate it, it will struggle, tilt - then retract a bit. I try my best not to operate that one until I have the guides fixed.

I'm not sure I can explain it better - but I can demonstrate; Video of operating driver side front window. They all do this, except the passenger front where the guide(s) are clearly broken (it simply can't travel far enough without a helping hand, to demonstrate the issue).

Video

jcman

Oh just change the guide clips, we have a saying over here and don't take it personal.....KISS....this means "Keep It Simple Stupid" and by no means am I implying that you are stupid, just over analytical.

pr0xZen

Are you suggesting the only logical solution is that the guides on all 4 windows are broken in an equal manner?

jcman

Sorry I missed the comment in your post #21 about all of them moving smooth, I had to read the whole thread over.

One area you can investigate would be the wiring in the door boots on the drivers side (both doors), you might have a cracked wire or a few cross-signaling.

And with the CCM I'd check for the proper coding in VCDS, some folks over here recode the CCM to use the FOB to also operate the windows with the lock/unlock button though I doubt this is the problem it's still a good idea to make sure the code is correct.

pr0xZen

Thats ok, my posts can get a bit "messy" and long at times, not always easy-peasy to extract information I guess. In my compulsion to cover sympthoms, context and details - I might have ended up confuscating it.

In #26 at bottom, short youtube clip showing the movement.

I have a small crooked eye on the driver door wiring loom, as the loom boot between door and body was loose when I got it, and driver side mirror heating is also gone. If weather permits, I should probably check that now that the carpets and trim is out anyway, gives good room to work.Might also be the master switch, but I have no idea how it signals the motors (pulse, live or ground switching etc) - and given that its "the same" when operating on the singular doors switches - that would only(?) be possible if current flow goes through the master switch regardless of what switch is physically operated. So unless I come over something informative there, I'll leave the switch for now.

Any idea about what might be correct coding for the CCM, or a pointer towards figuring it out? I've founds lots of references to coding the CCM, but no intel on actual codes/code caluclation. Can't imagine there are that many variables making up the code. VCDS log says coding is 04683. It does operate the windows up/down if I press and hold lock/unlock on the fob. Windows stll only move 2-3 inches though.

Come to think of it, on a few occations, the rear windows would move down (in the manner we "know"), but not go up again. Would have to wait 10-20 seconds, and then they'd be going up "as usual". Could it maybe be a thermal fuse..? Do these go weak/bad with long age?