N_Jay

The Audi shop I am using wants $198 for labor and $12 for the seal
(Of course $20 each for exhaust clamps and $30 for a liter of gear oil)

I need to find a friend with a lift.

tester123

More like $14 at a local euro parts store. Try online.

If your heat shield screws broke, the only thing left is to drill them out like I did.

tester123

Try Blauparts Ravenol Gear Oil (75W-90). It works perfectly and is OEM equivalent. I am not associated with Blauparts but, so far, all my experiences (t-belt kit, Trans kit with fluid, Tie-rods, coolant and gear oils etc.) all have been positive and I am very happy with them.

5k miles after the entire job, still not a drop of oil leaking anywhere and the car runs like brand new! Can't ask more than that (for now at least )

Don't we all?

N_Jay

This guy I have used so far likes using factory fluids, but I was just planning on using Mobil Synthetic gear oil 75w90m if I do it myself.

Since those guys are just up in WI, I might try them out.

Airbag

what i meant to say was i did not completely remove it from the car .. just dropped where it attached to the tail flange and dropped the support bracket and swung it out of the way ..

N_Jay

Yes, as has been pointed out.

Well, this car has not spent much time in the salt, so hopefully I won't run into the stuck screw issue.

I also need to do both axle seals on eth rear diff. Those should be easier.

tester123

I think the heat from the exhaust might also contribute to this issue. Plus, the exhaust pipes are below so it's like the shield/transfer case is on a stove when standing still. I never tried heating/torch on the bolts but, that's an option to try out. However, PBlaster multiple sprays and overnight soak might help - hind sight is 20/20, ain't it?

Well, YMMV but I just replaced both boots on Front Driverside axle on my 4.2. The Triple roller joint (inner CV joint) WILL NOT come out as the end of the lip is punched to prevent the rollers sliding out. You can press them if you a good vice etc. and take it apart. Too much work/hassle for me. I just cut the boot out, cleaned all the grease using GAS and brake cleaner. Needed to replace both boots anyway so, I removed the outer CV boot and hammered out the inner racer (there is a "C" clip that holds it in place). Pulled everything off the shaft and slide the inner boot on. This way, I didn't have to mess with triple roller side. Rest is outer CV boot, grease, new hardware and clamping it down.