bud4ya

hey guys I am pretty sure I need a new alternator. I ran my charger that has the alternator test on it and the Audi failed. I tried teh same test on a couple other of my cars and got the green light on charger saying alternator is working. I know it could be loose or bad wiring from alternator but need to purchase the alternator just in case.

So from what i can see when I went online to order a Bosch alternator there is one that is a bit more expensive and it says Valeo System. The other bosch alternator says (*Some Models w/Valeo System Alternators OE may require 06B 903 119 or 06B 903 119C Pulley for Proper Pulley Alignment*)

So what alternator do I get? with Valeo or without?

It is a 2001 A6 2.7T. Any questions to determine which one I need please let me know.

Thanks

bud4ya

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...412@Alternator



Here are the 2 choices

4Driver4

Call Joe at Axis Motorsports for help.

You really want to replace the alternator with the same brand that you have now.

bud4ya

I will try him now. I even called the Audi dealer here and they said sorry it is too old for us to check. You will have to pull yours first and then you can find out what one you have. That sucks because if a local parts store does not have one when I have the car ripped apart it is going to sit like that till they get one.

Anyone have a good DIY link on replacing alternator 2001 A6 2.7T? I searched and found one link but it was no longer active. Found another one on line but it was for a 2001 A6 2.8 and not sure if they would be the same.

Guess I need to find out what came with the car. I was surprised Audi could not check with VIN

Thanks

bud4ya

I have been doing some more reading and maybe it is my battery. From what I am reading if the car will start when jumped it is not the alternator it is the battery. Is that true.

It ran fine yesterday started in AM started after work then I drove home shut car off for about 2 min's went to start it again and nothing. I jumped the car and it started right up and continued to run. I just put it in the garage and let it charge overnight.

Thoughts?

4Driver4

So it started in the morning fine, but not later after driving it? Alternator.

And yes, you do have to pull it apart to find out what unit is in it. Audi did not track this.

Whatever you do, do not buy a POS alternator from a budget parts store like Autozone. Their alternators are notoriously bad.

Replacement is very similar to the 2.8 - nose goes to service position and the unit comes out the front.

bud4ya

I left it on the charger the whole night that is probably why it started this AM.

It started fine yesterday AM just when I got home I shut it off for 2 mins went to start it again and no go. I threw some jumper cables on it and it started right up. Pulled it in gargage and let it charge all night hence why it started today.

I am going to bring it to autozone and they said they have a test they can do and it will tell me if it is the battery or alternator. If it is I will only buy the Bosh or Valeo what ever one came with the.

I just hope they test they do is right. Hate to buy a battery and find out is it alternator or vis versa.


I just read where it said if you can jump start your car from another one it is not the alternator that is where I am confused

Huskerbob

I got a rebuilt Valeo from O'Reillys Auto Parts and it looks exactly like the Valeo I took out. I think you will have an easier time of it by swinging the front out of the way rather than just going to service position. If it's anything like my 2001 2.8l the thing is buried on the passenger side and even with the nose out of the way it's not easy to wiggle it out of there. Good luck.

bud4ya

TY I am hoping it is the battery. Looks like two test to find out one is start car pull pos off and if car stays running it is the battery. If teh car dies then it is alternator.

Other way is multimeter with car running if it reads 13 or 14 alternator is good if it reads under 12 with car running it is the alternator.

mikem33

Hi. I don't recommend pulling the positive off with the engine running; the ECUs are quite sensitive to voltage spikes; this can fry one if you are unlucky.

Most battery places can do a load test on the battery without pulling anything apart, and the same test checks the alternator. I would get this diagnosis first and go from there. Most do it for free, and others (Sears, I think) charge something like 10 - 20 bucks to do it.

It's worth it just to avoid disasemmbling half the car to pull out an alternator that may be good.